Crunchy Clutch Cable

[Dr.Evil]

I dont know how else to describe it...its feels notchy/crunchy when letting it out. I went away for a while, but is back. It gets really annoying and makes it hard to get going from a stop without riding it. Does this sound like the clutch cable needs to be greased or what? Clutch is a year old, probably 25K miles...Flywheel was resurfaced at the time of the clutch job.

 

[Trojan Man]

My car does the EXACT same thing. Only I notice it more when I depress the clutch. It's also been slipping lately on hard shifts, and the other night I couldn't go from one gear to another while the engine was running. I had to get home in 2nd the whole way. It was like that the next day too and now it's fine... I'm tearing the clutch apart Sunday I think. At least its nice weather so I can drive the fast car

 

[MOSHO92]

Strange... I have the same problem also. Mine mysteriously went away yesterday.

I believe that it is either the TOB catching on the shaft, The release fork binding in the bushings, or the cable itself is stiking.

Trojan Man: I think if you were actually unable to shift your problem may be a bit more severe.

Please post if you find a solution as I'm sure it is only a matter of time before mine comes back. squint

 

[Dr.Evil]

Yea mine comes and goes. Sometimes its bad, then others it fine...? Weird.

 

[sdpatt]

You gentlemen are most likely describing the effects of a worn throwout bearing and pressure plate spring tips.

You can disconnect the clutch cable from the transaxle release lever by propping the clutch pedal up with a 7" long "something" and pulling the cable end foreward from the release lever. You should be able to feel if there is any serious friction in the cable and shield and if found, you can work some grease into the cable shield by pulling the cable out, applying grease and then pulling it back in from the other end.

I doubt this will neeed to be done since my clutch cable is OEM and has yet to need relubing. There have been several throwout bearings and pressure plates replaced in that same span of miles.

 

[masho95]

You gentlemen are most likely describing the effects of a worn throwout bearing and pressure plate spring tips.

I only have a few thousand miles on my new clutch and throwout bearing and I also have the same crunchy pedal feel. I only feel it intermittantly and only during depressing the clutch pedal. The crunchyness is felt near the bottom of the pedal depressing.

 

[AutoSHO]

Add me to that list. Just replaced the clutch and used a brand new TOB and release shaft bushings. The only thing I can discern is that the pawls on the TOB fork are worn from having the TOB move on it, causing the TOB to sit slightly off center and rub on the Repair sleeve.

I am going to, at some point when I feel like dropping the Subframe and transmission again, replace the fork.

This is using the TOB that came with my South Bend Rally clutch (basically an OEM clutch).

 

[MOSHO92]

Its back again! madflame

I think I'm going to go try sdpatt's idea and test the cable for internal friction. I refuse to believe that my 2000 mile old pressure plate is already going bad!

I'll be back with the results.

 

[jelloslug]

Mine does that also. I sprayed a bunch of WD-40 on the tranny where the clutch arm comes out of the case and it stopped for a while, but it came back later.

 

[Fast4SHO]

My 95 Did this also, I tried spraying **** down into the clutch cable up by the pedal (which is not easy) and it would stop for months but then come back. I don't know if the clutch cable was the problem or if I was just hiding the effects of internal clutch problems by lubing the cable. What an annoying problem.

 

[Bizzy]

Ok, how many of you replaced the shift fork bushings when you did clutch jobs? Raise your hands!

These can cause the "crunchy" feeling you describe as well. As the shift fork moves in and out it turns inside these bushings. If there is grit or grime inside the bushing around the fork shaft (& there will be trust me) it will cause this. It is important that with every clutch job that those be replaced and lubricated before the trans is put back into action.

Now, this is not saying that this is the cause of all the problems people mention here, but a cause I'm sure of some. If lubricating the clutch cable doesn't work and you've inspected where the cable goes through the firewall and through the grommet on the trans case then it very well could be the bushings inside the bell housing. Or....it could be a bad TOB and PP.

<small>[ March 04, 2004, 07:42 PM: Message edited by: Bizzy ]</small>

 

[Racer X]

I replaced and lubed my bushings when I did my transmission, and transplanted my 2000mile old PP. And my clutch does this. Comes and goes, but ****** me off to no end!

 

[TRSCobra]

Where can I get these bushings?? I called the dealer and they said they were discontinued. They did search and no other dealers had it either. I took mine out because the clutch fork wouldn't even move (junkyard trans) and they got all messed up in the process. So I desperately need these bushings. Need em.

 

[SHO_Diehard]

I replaced and lubed my bushings when I did my transmission, and transplanted my 2000mile old PP. And my clutch does this. Comes and goes, but ****** me off to no end!

AutoSHO made reference to the repair sleeve, but I don't think any of the posts listed it (or rather lack of it) as a possible cause of a gritty clutch pedal. I don't recall the exact mechanism, but no repair sleeve possibly combined with clutch material wears out the aluminum TOB quill and causes sticking.

I cannot imagine a trans that does not have the repair kit (stainless steel sleeve) at this point, but I guess anything is possible.

One of the old SHO Registry magazines had an article about drilling a hole in the bellhousing and CAREFULLY lubing the quill. Food for thought, although I'm not sure I'd do that.