Cruise module harness question

[jaded93atx]

I recently had to diconnect the cruise control harness from the cruise module because fluid got into it and kept shorting out the #1 brake fuse, I can live w/o the cruise, but on my ATX anyways I also lost function of my horn. I'm not an abnoxous horn blower, but I live in the City and using it is necessary to avoid an accident at least once every 5 miles of rush hour driving.
Does anyone know which wires from that harness operate the horn so I can just jump them to the relay and leave the rest unattached?

 

[Camarok]

well... since you disconnected the harness... it shouldn't be a problem anymore right? just replace the fuse...? or am i still missing something?

 

[jaded93atx]

Yes disconnecting the cruise harness did solve the #1 brake fuse blowing problem, but that fuse has nothing to do with the horn, removing the harness does, so in addition to losing the cruise with it undone, I also lost function of my horn. I can't reconnect the whole harness because half of it melted when it shorted out. I'm just looking for an idea which of the 8 or so colored wires leading into the harness control the horn, so I can just "hot wire" them to the corresponding pins without using the harness to get my horn back.
Maybe this makes more sense

 

[Camarok]

yeah I see what you mean... I can't find my wiring and vacuum schematic book, lost it. So we have to find someone with access to that.... I think somewhere on here there is a link to it....

go here
http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=18930

 

[jaded93atx]

Got It!... looks like the Orange wire in the cluster controls the horn on the 3.2 Big Thanks for finding that, its very much appreciated.

 

[rangerj]

It would be helpful to know what part of the harness you disconnected and where it is located. What kind of fluid got into the harness, and why? If you dry out the fluid the problem should be resolved unless you are still leaking fluid. There is a "sticky" posted that has the wiring diagrams for many of the model years. Have you tried looking at the diagram for your model year?

The horn, cruise control, and the AIR BAG wires are in the same harness. A connection for each of these items is in the clockspring, which is behind the steering wheel. It would be very risky to hot wire the horn. If you have a short in thiese circuits, or any one of them, it should be properly repaired.

That having been said, if you plan to proceed with "jury rigging" the circuit disable the air bag. This is done by disconnecting the battery and waiting 30 minutes. Then disconnect the back-up power supply for the air bag, which is behind the glove box. rangerj

 

[jaded93atx]

Ranger J
What I had to do was unclip the harness that goes to the cruise control module in front of the brake fluid resevoir. Somehow brake fluid got in there and caused a short which resulted in my #1 fuse to blow and I couldnt shift out of park. I tried to clean the connection but when I plugged it back in, it blew the fuse again and a couple of the female connectors melted.
Apparently on the MTX's unclipping this harness only disables the cruise control and effects nothing else, but from my searches the ATX's (for whatever reason) run the horn lead through this harness and by unhooking it I not only lost cruise function but the horn also. On the diagram it shows the how the 3.0 and 3.2 wiring differs.

I am not messing around with any of the harnesses in the steering wheel or that control the air bags.
As far as where the brake fluid came from I'm at a loss, my levels are fine and there is no sign of a leak. My only thought is that I must of dripped a little on the module when I topped of my fluid after I bled my system 6 months ago.
Thanks for looking out,

 

[rangerj]

Jaded,

If that connection is between the horn relay and the horn the wire should be dark blue. If the connection is between the fuse panel and the relay it should be light blue with a white tracer (stripe). The wires and the connector can be removed from the plastic connection by inserting a paper clip and "releasing" the connector by pressing on the "tang" that holds it in the connector.

The two connectors (connected to the wires) can then be put together outside the plastic connector and your horn should work, as long as the short is not in the horn wiring. Tape the connection (horn wires).

You should do some electrical test to find your short when you get time. Just as a thought, the cigarette lighter is on the same circuit. Are you sure there is nothing in the lighter receptical, like a bobby pin or a dime, that is causing the short. It takes a serious short to cause the melt down you describe.
Best of luck, rangerj

 

[jaded93atx]

Ranger,
Thanks for the wire colors and the tips on removing the connectors with a paperclip, sure beats the wire snips I was going to use. Although I think the connection that I'm looking at runs between the horn relay and the cruise module that is in the engine compartment. Thats how it looks to be in the 3.2 wiring diagram anyways. The cigg. lighter still works with that harness unattached (I have my radar detector plugged in it) so the harness must be located after the circuit that they share.
I know the brake fluid caused the short, the plug in point was saturated with it, I assume it acted as a conductor and caused the leads to cross and fry.
Its too dark out now to fuss with it but I'm going to take your warnings and advice as gospel and look everything over in the daylight before I start cutting, splicing, or manipulating the wiring, measure twice, cut once.
I let you know the results
Thanks Again,
Steve