Crankshaft seal housing plate

[ganoze]

Has anyone tried to remove this plate or housing? I purchased a Fel-Pro crankshaft seal set (part #TCS45871)or as Autozone calls it the timing cover gasket set. It comes with the crankshaft seal, two gaskets that look like they fit behind the plate, and a rubber gasket that fits on top of the oil pan.

I took out the three bolts holding the top of the plate and the two oil pan bolts facing up in the plate. I was prying it loose, but it only came out like a 1/2" and won't go any more. It look like there are guide pins or dowel pins also. Any advice out there on my situation? Thanks.

It is a '94 ATX.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

That's not a plate, it's the oil pump.

Since you've already loosened it, you'll need to finish the job to replace the gasket which probably tore when you pulled the pump loose. Normally you don't do this. In order to remove the oil pump, you'll need to remove the y-pipe, oil pan, and pick up tube.

 

[ganoze]

I guess I should change out the rear main seal sinced I will be dropping the oil pan?

 

[biker889]

Then you would have to remove the transmission

 

[ganoze]

Just checked out the y pipe. This must be one of the worst cars to work on from underneath! Tight spaces everywhere. Might be easier to cut the front cat out and weld back on afterwards.

 

[Ocnaj]

It's really not that bad to remove the y-pipe. 4 nuts, 2 bolts, and 2 O2 sensor connectors. It will give you much more room underneath of the car.

 

[riden2low]

It's really not that bad to remove the y-pipe. 4 nuts, 2 bolts, and 2 O2 sensor connectors. It will give you much more room underneath of the car.

Not bad to do. I was doing the same thing until the guys on the forum told how to do it.. Spray some *********** oil up there on the Y pipe nuts. Some have problems getting them to break loose but mine came off with no problem. While I had the pan off, replaced the rod bearings too.

 

[ganoze]

yea, shot some pb blaster on the them and with a little reverse and forward action with the 1/2" ratchet got them loose. Then realized the starter needed to be removed! I finally finished off the day removing all the oil pan nuts and bolts and called it the day.

BTW, I am doing the front and upper 60K at the same time. It has 130,000 miles on the clock and havent really driven it since I brought it two months back. It was missing pretty bad and some of the plug wells were fill almost halfway with oil! Seems ike the engine was well taken care of virtually no sludge on the heads and valve clearance were in the balls on in the middle of the specs.

Thanks for replying to the noobie.

 

[riden2low]

Yep, learning like I have. But while you have the pan off, I would take one of the rod bearings out and check it for wear. They may have replaced them but if not, do it while you are under there. Real easy to do. Use assembly **** when you replace them and tighten them down to specks and you are good to go. Right now I am going thru the forum to reading everything on removing and replacing springs and struts. You will find a lot of guys are on here to help. 95% of them have been there and done that.