Crank cancer

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squidlips

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Well as the title says my SHO has become a cancer victim. It looks like the crankshaft is fine but the key and the gear are toast. Anyone have any on hand or know where I could get one? Anyone ever tried welding the gear to the shaft?
 

CerberuS

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I might have that handy in a week or 2.

Never seen anyone welding it , cose the pulley wont sit properly...
 

SHOtimer

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squidlips said:
Well as the title says my SHO has become a cancer victim. It looks like the crankshaft is fine but the key and the gear are toast. Anyone have any on hand or know where I could get one? Anyone ever tried welding the gear to the shaft?

No need to weld it. Just get a new key, and gear and make sure to torque the bolt to its proper spec.

Doug
 

squidlips

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SHOtimer said:
No need to weld it. Just get a new key, and gear and make sure to torque the bolt to its proper spec.

Doug

The problem is I'm having a hard time finding a new gear and key. I'm hesitant to put a used set back on and having the same issue again. All the people I talk to at the dealerships say I'm out of luck. I guess since the engine is non-interference it's not that big of a deal to use an old gear and key and just keep my fingers crossed that it lasts a while.
 

Ishodu

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If you use the old gear and key it will destroy the crank in no time. Just get a used set from the WTB section. Also check the fit of the new key on the crank when you install it make sure its not loose on its seat.
 

Paul

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SHOtimer said:
No need to weld it. Just get a new key, and gear and make sure to torque the bolt to its proper spec.

Doug
You are crank cancer!
 

squidlips

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CerberuS said:
Can anyone tell me what causes that? The real thing?

From looking at mine it appears that rust is the problem. The gear is supposed to have an interference fit with the crankshaft. Proper crank bolt torque is important only in the seating of the gear; the key is for proper positioning. If you look at the inside of the gear it has small grooves. These grooves allow moisture in and eventually lead to rust, evident by the reddish-brown dust found under the timing cover of effected cars. I was able to find a used one in a bone yard today for $10. When I measured the interior diameter of my faulty one and this used one there was a .005-inch difference. When I put it back together this time I'm going to use some sort of moisture barrier to prolong the gear life since I had such a hard time finding this thing.

Thanks to cerberuS for the response and offer of parts.:thumb:
`
 

AREA 91

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You can put a light coating of grease on the crank snout and timing gear to combat the rust.:thumb:
 

SHOBlu

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I had to replace mine and used Loktite 670 between the gear and the crank. it is normally used when replacing cylinder sleeves (because of its high sheer strength)and takes up the space between the bore and the sleeve. But in the case of the SHO, it takes up the space that the old pulley wore into the crank.
Also make sure the retaining bolt is torqued properly (I hear that lack of torque after timing belt replacement has ruined many a SHO crank.).

Just my $.02 and wish you luck.
 

yamahaSHO

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Crank cancer is usually caused from a improperly tightened crank bolt. Check the crank carefully. Are you sure the edges of the slot are not worn? I had crank cancer on my '92.
tining%20key.jpg


When I broke, I used a new key and loc-tite the crap out of it. I also torqued the bolt to 200 ft-lbs. I've run canyon runs and 6 runs down the quarter mile launching the crap out of it and it never broke. The new owner has put 11k miles on it in the last 4 months and it's doing fine.

Don't weld, you won't be able to ever change the seal again. You could also risk warping something. I have a couple spare crank gears, however, I won't part with any of my extra crank keys (unless you can persuade me otherwise).
 

Racer X

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Cosigned on the improperly tightened crank bolt.

The bolt presses the crank pulley/ dampener and the timing gear against the shoulder at the end of the crank snout preventing movement. The key is only for alignment. Insufficient torque of the crank bolt will allow movement which over time erodes the crank pulley where it fits around the crank, and the back of the timing gear where it presses against the shoulder at the back of the crank snout. I have a cancerous set that I can take pictures of and show you what I mean.

The rust dust is the result of this erosion of parts. As the parts erode, the resultant metal dust is dispersed around the ancillary drive and timing drive, where it accumulates and oxidizes as a result of being exposed to the atmosphere.

It is important to remember that even though there's a slight interference fit between the two pulleys and the crank snout, that interference is not what keeps the parts from spinning. The pressure a properly torqued crank bolt exerts against the parts into that shoulder on the crank is what keeps things in place. You don't hit the mark when you're torquing down that bolt, and you can kiss your crankshaft, pulley, key and sprocket goodbye.
 

ScottyDsntKno

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I was told to torque to at least 120 ft lbs so I went to 130. It is a real pita to get any tighter on an auto anyways. Is 130 enough?
 

SHOBlu

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I was told to torque to at least 120 ft lbs so I went to 130. It is a real pita to get any tighter on an auto anyways. Is 130 enough?

130 is plenty! I don't know how much it can ultimately take, but twisting the bolt in half would not be fun to repair! I I just checked my Alldata subscription and the spec is actually 113-126 ft/lb. You should be fine at 130.
 

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