Cradle mount bolt question for the group

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tery

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Hey guys, I'm getting a clunk-ish noise sometimes now that I can finally take Silvia around the block with her new spangled radiator..Please have a look at these two pics and lemme know if you think the right side looks right. To me, it looks like the bolt has backed out a bit, can that give me a periodic clunk noise? And , can I just impact it back into place, or is it backed out because something else is wrong/going on? Thanks in advance for your help and expertise..

...or looking at it more...is there a missing part on top of the arm?? And so maybe the bolt is all the way seated, but the upper part of the rubber bushing isn't there??


....darn it, I put this in the wrong forum...again, I meant to put it in Suspension etc..sorry...again, brain too old for giggles..



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sperold

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It has backed out a bit, or never was set in the first place.

I would peel back the carpet (the hardest part of the job) and have a look through that floor peep-hole at the captive nut, that the bolt screws into.
I would soak it with penetrating oil, and be prepared to heat it if the first crank feels wrong.
There is a slim chance the captive nut broke loose when the previous owner installed the bolt, in which case you have to get a wrench in there to hold the captive nut, after you have heated it.
Put lots of "never-seize" on the threads, and you problem is over.
 

rubydist

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yes, something is wrong. it could be the bolt is loose/backed off, or it could be that the bushing has started to disintegrate and the bolt just looks loose. in either case, that could be the cause of your clunking.
^ sperold has good advice for trying to get the darn bolt loose.
 

tery

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Hey,
Thank you both very much, this SHO site never ceases to amaze me...I think the first thing I'll do it just try cranking on the bolt lightly to see if it moves at all, I think I'm pretty good about sensing give on rusted things,,.or at least a little better each year, if it won't move or feels wrong, I'll do the under carpet check. I went under and felt above the arm and the upper part of the bushing is there and doesn't feel torn or broken or..So ...hopefully spoken...maybe it has just backed itself out...Rusty stuff is always a crap shoot, it's worth a try just to see if it'll move. The interior of the car if very good and doesn't look like water ever got in, and the floor pan underneath was at some point undercoated with something that has been gone for not too long, but it doesn't look as bad under there as two of my other cars. It'll probably be later in the week that I get around to checking..we've got three more weeks of school and then freedom.

PS.- the radiator went in very well and again although there was lots of rust, I got it done with no other damage and now it just purrs. Temp sensor is shot, but I did that on ginger (the one on the intake manifold) and it wasn't a bad job all in all, so I'll do that and put on hood supports which of course are shot. I think brakes are gonna need work, although they do work....wait!!! I'm talking as if I'm keeping this damn car, this was supposed to be parted out after swiping the tranny with Bob...But honestly, I can't do it myself at my age and putting a grand into that car doesn't make any sense. Besides, I figured out how to keep it in gear when I let out the clutch, ya just have to push firmly against the shifter so it doesn't slip back. It seems that it just falls out of first with the clutch in, so if I hold it against the gear position, it stays in a works fine after that, So, I'm gonna just put up with it, It does pick up very fast though, I can feel the difference the 8 lb flywheel makes I think. I just won't do the exterior body work on Sylvia, Just drive it around as my beater SHO, and then the others that I did all the wheel wells and such can just stay pretty and out of the weather. At 20 bucks a month, it's worth it to store a car, rather than lose the 3k I put into them. My kids will have a ball someday laughing at what a kook their dad was.

I just noticed something else, on the side with the backed out bolt, why is there that big flat washer between the bolt and the bottom of the bushing, it's not like that on the other side and my memory from ginger's rebuild under there is that there isn't an extra flat washer...uh oh...maybe this area has been 're-done" by someone with a bad idea to fix something that went wrong?? I wonder if someone took the bolt out and then cross threaded it or something....why would they add that 4-5" diameter washer>?
We'll see soon enough I guess
 

kevinspann

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I've seen bolts like that. Looks like one side has the recall kit, and the other doesn't.

I'd put gen 3 bushings with new bolts at all 4 corners, personally.
 

tery

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So Kevin...are you saying that that bolt looks to you to be all the way tight? If in fact its a recall kit replacement/?
 

pjtoledo

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the one with the washer is definitely the recall kit. the kit was the bolt/washer/nut plate.
hard to tell in the pic, but there doesn't appear to be any wear marks on the washer from bolt contact.
the replacement nuts had a tendency to spin, which made tightening the bolts difficult.
do a rust inspection while you're in there, the bolts go into a cavity that is notorious for rust.
FYI, the subframe does not support the body, rather the subframe is suspended from the body via those 4 bolts.
 

tery

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Thanks very much, great info for my hunt...I'm gonna try tomorrow and see what I get...
 

tery

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Okay...well things were going really well, I used a breaker bar and went very slow and got movement...felt good and was moving...It broke one of those cheap chinese sockets so I went to the better 18mm 6 point with a two foot breaker bar, It was going in...Hurray!!!! me happy!!!!, It was making that creak of tightening metal with every 1/8 turn and clearly moving in...Then there was a sixteenth to go and I cranked again and...Wallah...the f*in!!! bolt broke because there is a 1/16 lip on the *#*^*%!!!!&!!! big flat washer of the recall kit...everyone knows that...except me...Anwway...got really lucky again and was able to get the captive nut mount out easily without breaking off the tabs, turned out the broken off piece of bolt very easily with a vise and vise grips and Andrew, bless him, is putting a new kit in the mail hopefully as i write this. Can someone tell me the torque setting for the cradle mount bolts and am I correct that there is a thread pitch mismatch between the bolt and the captive nut so that they stay tight, but it feels a bit like cross threading when you tighten the bolt into the captive nut by hand..
Is it 60lbs??

Thinking out loud...I like Ford, but this captive nut set up is just freakin stupid..I've still got my tabs that "hold" the captive nut, but I'll get Kevin next door to hold the nut on top while I tighten it from underneath anyway...Can someone tell me the torque number for cradle mount bolts..







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tery

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Dammit...I had it perfect...you can see how much I pulled it up...just didn't know I had to stop, but I don't feel so bad, cause ya don't know what ya don't know, and in the original pictures, I can't see that lip at all, it just looks like a bolt shaft and with the PB all over it...well, it is at it is...
 

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