Coolent Leak and a confession

[JohnW63]

I just noticed I have an intermittent leak in the driver's side of my radiator. I found a notable puddle at work, but I can't seem to get it to leak all the time. It seems wet from just below the upper hose, but the hose seems dry. There is a wrapped electical line in front of the radiator that seems wet, but I think it originates from the back side. The bigger drips come down very close to the radiator drain plug and some "T" fitting. Upon very close inspection, I think I can see two little ridges on the drivers side of the radiator that might have a crack in them. The ridges on either side of these two don't seem to have the crack, so.... After using the search button, it seems that the end caps of the radiator are prone to problems. Do my symptoms match this ? How long should I expect to need to replace the radiator ? Is the AutoZone ones an exact fit, or should I go to another source. My local 'Zone listed the upper rad hose, but it wasn't EVEN a close match. It flat out would never have fit.

Now for the confession....

The car has 130K on it. 1995 3.2L ATX SHO. While I have changed the plugs once and the plug wires, as well as the valve cover gaskets, and thermastat, I have done NO other engine bay maintenance. As far as I know , all the belts, hoses, and all the other "60K Service" stuff has never been done. I guess I'm living on borrowed time. The reason I haven't done or had this stuff done is that when I HAVE done work on the car it ALWAYS takes a lot longer than I expect. ( See my posts awhile back on an iol leak and another on rear brake problems. ) Yes, I got the 60K maintenence video on eBay, but...I never even watched it. It's also my daily driver and I need to use it, well...daily.

Feel free to chatise me or encourage me to get of my @ss. I need a kick in the right direction.

 

[Dr. Tweak]

The car has 130K on it. 1995 3.2L ATX SHO. While I have changed the plugs once and the plug wires, as well as the valve cover gaskets, and thermastat, I have done NO other engine bay maintenance. As far as I know , all the belts, hoses, and all the other "60K Service" stuff has never been done. I guess I'm living on borrowed time. The reason I haven't done or had this stuff done is that when I HAVE done work on the car it ALWAYS takes a lot longer than I expect. ( See my posts awhile back on an iol leak and another on rear brake problems. ) Yes, I got the 60K maintenence video on eBay, but...I never even watched it. It's also my daily driver and I need to use it, well...daily.

Feel free to chatise me or encourage me to get of my @ss. I need a kick in the right direction.

BAN HIM!


LOL j/k. Have a look at my website, http://www.shophoenixproject.com/ for some more info on the 60k and other maintenance items.

Yes, what you are describing sounds like the end tank is leaking. I've had the same problem on mine for about a year, some radiator stop leak fixed it. I do not recommend using stop leak, but I was in a bind because I had a long trip I needed to take and I couldn't afford a new radiator at the time. I haven't gotten around to changing it yet

I've heard that you could try to recrimp the edges of the end tanks, or replace the radiator. Or, you know... eh.... nevermind.

 

[revhardSHO]

I do not recommend using stop leak, but I was in a bind because I had a long trip I needed to take and I couldn't afford a new radiator at the time.

What's wrong with stop leak? Ive heard some auto manufacturers actually it from the factory. Not that I use it, Im just curious as to its negative connetations.

 

[SHOtimer]

Stop leak has a dendency to do its job. Clog things up. But, it does it to things that shouldn't be clogged, heater cores, thermostats and other small water passages. I also wouldn't use it because I only like nice clean coolant being pumped through my motor. But, it does work, just consider what else it is clogging up. Where in Socal are you?

Doug

 

[djdanRT]

I just noticed I have an intermittent leak in the driver's side of my radiator. I found a notable puddle at work, but I can't seem to get it to leak all the time. It seems wet from just below the upper hose, but the hose seems dry. There is a wrapped electical line in front of the radiator that seems wet, but I think it originates from the back side. The bigger drips come down very close to the radiator drain plug and some "T" fitting. Upon very close inspection, I think I can see two little ridges on the drivers side of the radiator that might have a crack in them. The ridges on either side of these two don't seem to have the crack, so.... After using the search button, it seems that the end caps of the radiator are prone to problems. Do my symptoms match this ? How long should I expect to need to replace the radiator ? Is the AutoZone ones an exact fit, or should I go to another source. My local 'Zone listed the upper rad hose, but it wasn't EVEN a close match. It flat out would never have fit.

I would replace the radiator if you suspect it. Its about one of the easiest things to do. Autozone has a repair how to do section on there website. I just replaced mine last month and it was super easy. I could do on now in under 30 minutes. I think autozones radiators are $149 and they are an exact fit for my MTX.

 

[JohnW63]

SHOtimer,

I'm in Apple Valley. I see you're over in Santa Clarita.

I'll check out AutoZone.

 

[Lorenr]

These radiators are famous for cracking just below the radiator hose inlet. Pull it out, pressure test it and you can see where the damage is. I think it is caused from hot coolant hitting the cooler plastic of the radiator end tank.

Don't try to repair it. The cheapest thing to do is replace it with an auto trans or heavy duty radiator.

 

[AREA 91]

Just replace it, very easy! Been there, done that.

 

[SonicRiot]

Stopleak. The number one fix for leaky GMs and Subarus.

That stuff is laughable crap. I can't believe how much manufacturers use it to solve problems such as leaky headgaskets. It's a poor fix, but it can successfully be used if the coolant is flushed religiously as not to clog up the water jackets, pump, and passages.


But I wouldn't use it on my car.

 

[SHOZ123]

If the leak happens when the engine is off and cold it is the end tank. If the leak happens when the engine is hot it is probably a cracked tank of bad hose.

 

[JohnW63]

I borrowed a pressure tester and it looks like it does leak on the driverside plastic end piece. The prices I've found are:

AutoZone: $169
www.radiators.com: $151 with shipping and taxe
Local shop: $129

They all say it's a lifetime waranty.

Are all radiators created equal ?

It looks like the rad will have to come out the bottom of the car. Fans ans shrouds come off. Hoses come of. Are there any complicated surprises I need to know about ?

 

[SHOguy 92]

My friends SHO had bad motor mounts and it cracked the peice off the radiator where the lower rad hose connects too. Check your motor mounts

 

[Joe'sSHO]

There really are no surprises when doing the radiator. Check with my bro (sho--ripper on the forum) he may have some radiators laying around that you could pick up for cheap. Good luck!

 

[SHOtimer]

The radiator usually comes out of the top of the car not the bottom.

Doug

 

[SonicRiot]

Take it out the top. Some cars the subframe is in the way on the bottom. The SHO isn't like that, but I'd still come out from the top.

 

[JohnW63]

It looked like the radiator would be blocked by the frame rail that the hood latch is on. Is there enough clearance between the motor and the frame to slide it out the top ?

 

[DHMag]

just like all Fords, the radiator has feet on the bottom. it sets in rubber isolators and mounts to the core support at the top.

remove vacuum diagram cover, unplug and remove CCRM, unplug fan motor. unbolt fan shroud, remove fan assembly, disconnect upper and lower hoses, unbolt upper radiator mounts (under core support lip on top), pull radiator straight up. can be done in less than an hour.

 

[JohnW63]

CCRM ?

That must be the unit that mounts to the top rail with the big plug. I haven't opened the Helms book yet.

Oh, and I recall some problems getting air out of the cooling system in old posts. What do I need to look out for ?

 

[JohnW63]

I must be cursed.

I got the radiator out and the new one looked identical...but...the fittings for the trans cooler lines on the passenger side are way too small. The large brass fitting won't fit and even the actual line fitting is too big. Of course ! The store won't be open until Monday, so it's staying apart.

To followup that good news....I had a small bucket under the car to catch the trans fluid that was driping out of the now unattached lines. When I was cleaning up, I noticed that the red fluid was actualy a nice metal flake red. Great ! I had the ATX rebuilt only about 2 to 2.5 years ago at the most. Now I have metal bits floating around in it.

Like I said, I'm cursed.

 

[SonicRiot]

Somebody probably didn't clean the housing well. Number one cause of comebacks on automatic transmissions. Sucks.