coolant too hot??

[BeatDaSHO]

Well i replaced my thermostat because it was stuck closed. I put in the same one i pulled out which was the 192 degree thermostat. I have the MTX but i couldn't find the 180 motorcraft anywhere so i got the 192 motorcraft. I put it in and it opens and closes now but the temp is still where it was at with the other one. Before, the temp would get to about the A or M and then it would go down to the L. Then one day, i guess the thermostat got stuck closed and it climbed to the N. That is when i changed it. So now this new one still gets up to the N. It's the same thermostat as the other one. I installed the jiggle valves at the top and topped off the radiator about 20 times. I thought maybe the sender was bad so i replaced that and it still gets up to the N. When the gauage goes up, you can't even tell when the thermostat opens because the gauge really doesn't move a whole lot. I don't get it. Should i go to napa and get a 180 degree there and try that? Do you think there is a block of some sort in the radiator or something? I'm stumped. I don't want to drive the SHO because of heat so it sits in my driveway . Please help me.

Greg

 

[sdpatt]

On a normally indicating gauge, the 88C (190.4F) thermostat will have the needle around the RMA range of the scale. The 82C (179.6F) thermostat will let the needle hover in the AL range. If you install the 88C 'stat in the 3.0L, the fan will turn on before the thermostat even opens fully. (Is you radiator fan even running? Press MAX AC on the climate control to verify that the fan works.) You really need the correct temperature 'stat in your 3.0L - the 82C version.

The Motorcraft thermostats have provided the best service due to their superior construction, but I saw a new Robert Shaw product at AutoZone that closely resembled the Motorcraft 'stats. They were the Generation 2 series that included the rubber seals at the stopper and around the perimeter and also a ball bearing jiggle valve. They had them in the 180F degree range and a higher 192F or 194F version. I could not verify that they had one to fit the SHO since there was not a cross reference guide available. But a couple of them sure looked like the SHO's thermostat.

 

[BeatDaSHO]

The fan is turning on and the thermostat opens but the needle doesn't get off the N. Maybe down to the O but that's it.

Greg

 

[LaTechSHO]

sounds like a radiator clogging problem......

Louis

 

[BeatDaSHO]

by the way.....this is at an idle. I don't know if this will affect the radiator but there is no air moving through it.

Greg

 

[twr]

Try a new radiator cap. Sounds like the system isn't holding pressure. The cap is the easiest to replace, if that doesn't help I would recommend getting the system pressure tested.

 

[shojuan]

I suggest also wiggling the connector to the gauge sender unit. A bad connection will make this read higher than normal.

I humbly disagree with Scott about the MTX *needing* the 180F part instead of the 192F part. The idiot gauge in the SHO has a very narrow measurement range for its normal operating temperature. Anything in the normal range is acceptable from the engineers' perspective. It's a guide only. The SHO has a very large cooling system and the computer knows what to do when the temperature changes, it controls the fan. At a higher opening temperature the largish radiator sees a larger temperature differential which will reject BTU's more quickly.

Benefits of the hotter part: faster warmups (important with the large cooling system and heat capacity of the SHO engine) and better gas mileage.

Don't bandaid your problem (real or perceived from inaccurate gauge reading) with a colder thermostat. Either make sure the gauge is operating properly or make sure you have a clean cooling system.

Rick

 

[BeatDaSHO]

well i went out today and picked up a napa thermostat (180 degree) because i know that this thermostat would run much colder because i have had it in there before. I was just trying to see if it would make a difference at all. Well turns out.......not a change at all. I'm fed up with this. Is it something with my radiator? do i need a new one? is it clogged or something?

Greg

 

[shojuan]

See? What did I say? Your cooling system *may* need to be flushed out good. But seriously, wiggle your gauge sender wire connector. Pull it off and push it back on a couple times. Your problem might very well be in that circuit. It's easy and free.

Rick

 

[BeatDaSHO]

well it isn't the sender cause i replaced that and i have pulled it on and off and nothing has changed. I also bought a new radiator cap but that didn't help.

Greg

 

[shojuan]

If you could find somebody who could take an actual temperature reading of your coolant that would be good. This would let you know if the problem is with the rest of the gauge sender wiring circuit or a clogged/corroded cooling system. In the meantime, get a bottle of redline waterwetter and throw that in there.

Rick

 

[BeatDaSHO]

could it possibly be a water pump? I replaced mine with an A1 Cardone remanufactured about 3 months ago.

Greg

 

[shojuan]

No, I don't think so. The water pump is pretty much going to pump until the bearing siezes and then your water pump belt would likely break. I'm sorry I'm not being more help here. Maybe Scott has something else he's thought of and will chime in.

Rick

 

[BeatDaSHO]

you have been a big help man. thank u very much. i just don't feel like buying a new radiator if i don't have to. it's the original one so maybe it is just crapping out. Should i just get the radiator off of www.rockauto.com for 100 bucks? should i get the lower radiator hose while i'm at it?

Greg

 

[shojuan]

If you get a new radiator you can spend more for a lifetime warranty radiator locally but you'll have the convenience of not having to ship it out if it ever fails, just drive to your local store.
If you decide to mail order there was another thread recently, I think you can get a new radiator $69 shipped? Maybe it's $85?

It's a good time to change the lower radiator hose. The Motorcraft hose fits the best and is reasonably priced from FPN. The next best bet is probably the NAPA hose. It sounds like it's not as good a fit but somebody got theirs for $8.

If you change your radiator, make sure to flush the rest of the system out really well before you take the old one out and swap the new one in.

Good Luck!

Rick

 

[LaTechSHO]

well.... according to everything i have ever read.... the thermostat controls the MINIMUM temperature not the MAXIMUM temperature.... as it stays closed until a temperature is reached for which it is designed to open...it doesn't opem more just because it is running hot....it is either open or closed....... the rest of the cooling system controls the maximum temperature... if your thermostat opens.... i suggest you look elsewhere for your problem

Louis

 

[shojuan]

BeatDaSHO:
you have been a big help man. thank u very much. i just don't feel like buying a new radiator if i don't have to. it's the original one so maybe it is just crapping out. Should i just get the radiator off of www.rockauto.com for 100 bucks? should i get the lower radiator hose while i'm at it?

Greg

This might be up your alley: Ford Taurus Radiator BRAND NEW!

$49 + $20 shipping or $69 buy it now + $20 shipping.

Lifetime warranty, if it fails they will overnight you a new one. I think somebody else here on the forum bought one and was happy with the service. I think that's how I got the link too.

Rick