Yep. Drop it out the bottom if you have a lift.
If not, welcome to the club.
Drain engine oil, trans fluid, coolant, a/c refrigerant. I recommend blowing some compressed air (if available) thru the cooling system after it has stopped draining. More coolant will come out. More now = less later.
Per my epa 609 license, I recommend going to a shop and having them properly recover your a/c refrigerant Before disabling the vehicle.
To remove the subframe disconnect front lower control arms at the subframe.
Soak the nut/threads with something that actually claims to dissolve rust. My favorite is Bolt Buster, Next is Break away, and 3rd is Fusion 3.0. Everything else (PB, Kroil, regular WD) doesn't dissolve rust.
Soak all Downpipe nuts/bolts, axle shaft nuts and steering shaft yolk at steering rack.
Disconnect steering yolk removing lower 10mm. Prevent steering wheel from spinning after removal. You don't want to break the airbag clock spring. Tie seat belt thru wheel, zip ties, bungie cord, etc.
Disconnect EPAS steering motor connections, there are 2 connectors that need to be disconnected and a 8mm bolt for the harness. Remove downpipes,
Remove your roll restrictors (subframe engine mounts).
Now you should be able to hit your sub Fame bolts. 13mm and 24mm at rear and 21mm at fronts. I do fronts last.
Put something at the rear middle of the subframe like a Jack, a jack stand or a wood box, maybe a tire, while you remove the front bolts. The subframe is about 150-200lbs I estimate. Most of the weight is at the rear.
Remove your 4 drive shaft to ptu bolts. 13mm or 15mm. They have thread locker.
Check for any wires or connected components before dropping the frame.
Remove front axles and protect splined ends and sealing surfaces of the shafts when storing.
Remove front fascia, crash bar, headlights
There's a harness that runs from the left to the right (pass) side to the abs sensor, washer spray motor/level sensor etc. Disconnect these connections. Mark them if you wish. This entire harness can be bundled up on the driver-side out of the way.
Disconnect all your coolant hoses from the engine. I leave them connected at the radiator. Remove coolant bottle.
Disconnect ac lines and trans lines. Have drip pan handy.
Check For any remaining wiring or hose connections.
Remove core support/cooling pack, battery/tray, wipers, cowl,
Remove hood (recommend)
Remove front turbo. This will give you access to the crank sensor harness when you get ready to separate the engine from trans later.
Remove lower turbo coolant line first and have coolant drain pan handy.
Remove torque converter/flex plate bolts NOW. Access cover is on the bottom of the engine. 4bolts for 2010's and early 2011's, 3 for everything else. Also, remove the bottom engine to trans bell-housing bolts. These things will be much less accessible with the engine/trans out.
Remove Power connections at Battery leads (10mm nuts)
Remove power leads at junction box if necessary. Label them.
Disconnect engine ground at RH side near strut tower.
Disconnect engine harness from PCM/ECU.
**Check over everything from all angles, top bottom, left, right, back and bottom with a bright light. The only 2 points of contact between your engine/trans and the vehicle should be your engine mount and trans mount.**
Make sure you have your black factory engine lifting eyelets (right rear corner and left front corner of the engine)
Some vehicle have only 1 from the factory, some have both.
Connect your engine hoist and have a small ratchet strap handy to attach to the eylet cast into the top of the trans to help level the trans out if you don't have a engine leveler. The strap is good to have either way.
I like to remove the 3 18mm bolts from the rh engine mount, then remove the 3 15mm nuts and 13mm bolt from the top of the trans mount. Loosen them each a lil at a time so that you can make additional hoisting or lifting provisions as necessary.
Keep tension on the engine hoist chain and ratchet strap while removing engine/trans mount fasteners. It is helpful to have a jack handy to support the bottom of the trans while removing the mounting nuts.
All in all, you don't want the trans end to sag and bind itself on the studs. The ratchet straps and/or jack under the trans should help with this. You can remove the studs at this point if you like.
It also can be helpful to remove the rest of the rh engine mount from the studs to get it out of the way to slide the power train out.
I have bolt torques and engine tolerances if/when needed.
This is as complete as I can remember. Be safe and enlist a friend during the subframe and engine hoisting portions of you can. The engine/trans combo is about 640lbs. Subframe is probably 150-200.
Replace trans mount if the vehicle is older than 6years. Inspect the rubber for tears and stress. Th
*MODERATORS - Feel free to move this post if it would be better served in a different location.
Sent from my PH-1 using Tapatalk
