Hello SHO world. SO I was recently thinking about upgrading to a cold air intake. At first I was thinking of going with a more reputable brand, but after further review I notice some of the off brand one with upgraded filters work just as good. So I was wondering if anyone has any experience with different C.A.I brands/filters and installation. I also want one that is not enclosed because another reason I wanted to upgrade is so the transmission dipstick is more accessible because with the factory air box you have to remove it to access the trans dip stick. Let me know any recommendations!
COLD AIR INTAKE
- Thread starter cangri
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- cold air intake intake upgrade
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Ta2dResqr
SHO Member
K&N in the stock box or EPP Twintake
After reading on here and there have been many posting on this as well the EPP air intake is probably top notch and seems to be what most are using. I personally went with Airaid as it was a little cheaper than the EPP, trying to stay on budget and keep wife happy, and it had good reviews and still shrouded off the air intake from the rest of the engine preventing essentially a hot air intake. It still utilizes the ram air scoop in the front of the air box and seals against the bottom of the hood. I like it but that’s my opinion.
kenneth mccoy
Member
I would go with a AEM filter stock box or magnum force stage 2 intake by Afe it replaces the top half of the airbox and the tubing.
SM105K
Streetlight Grand Prix Champ/ IG @fafomotorsports
Stock box with a K&N drop in. It will flow more air than your stock turbos can flow. Also, unless you are doing the 5 out and 5 in trans fluid swap every oil change or you have a massive trans fluid leak, there really isn't a reason to need to access your trans dip stick.
FiveLeeter918
Ortiz Performance Sales
After testing the Airaid, aFe, and Dual Intake Options, with both datalog and track comparisons, this is the synopsis I came up with:
1.) Stock car or "starter pack" and tune - Add drop-in filter with stock intake. You won't get much gains with an open filament intake, even though I have a write up showing that the powerband extends out to 6300, you're up there for MAYBE .1 seconds of each shift IF your tuner has you shifting that high, and it will require VCT changes otherwise you will still lose power at 5600 with stockish VCT.
2.) Basic bolt-ons or E30 - Until you start peaking out your WGDC (while ensuring no boost leaks), you still may not benefit much from a CAI. Once tapped out on stock turbo mods, we've seen the Airaid/aFe intakes getting around a 7hp gain over the stock airbox, as the air demand overtakes the small OEM snorkel and the turbos start to fight each other to breathe. The open filament intake helps this, but you still start to struggle to breathe above 5500 rpm when 430+ hp.
3.) Full mods, 90%+ wgdc - When you reach this point, you're going 460+ with XDI pump, E30/E50, downpipes, intercooler, etc., we have seen the need for the Dual Feed Intake options (Hennessey, J2, EPP) really come alive. With our own car, we notice an 8% drop in WGDC from the turbos not having to fight each other and an almost 4hp peak gain over the Airaid/aFe intakes.
In my professional opinion, stay with a drop-in filter until you get serious about mods. If you want the flashy intake and some suck suck noises, find a used Airaid/aFe (Airaid also the manufacturer for Roush and LMS intakes), or you can jump to the EPP intake for a one-and-done, but don't expect much of a power difference until full tilt.
For the record, I bought my Airaid intake used on eBay for $100 shipped to my door. If you aren't looking to go 11s or faster, that $450 difference can be easily put toward better tires or to save for an HPFP.
Another perk to the Dual Intake, it allows you to service the transmission fluid without removing anything top side of the engine
1.) Stock car or "starter pack" and tune - Add drop-in filter with stock intake. You won't get much gains with an open filament intake, even though I have a write up showing that the powerband extends out to 6300, you're up there for MAYBE .1 seconds of each shift IF your tuner has you shifting that high, and it will require VCT changes otherwise you will still lose power at 5600 with stockish VCT.
2.) Basic bolt-ons or E30 - Until you start peaking out your WGDC (while ensuring no boost leaks), you still may not benefit much from a CAI. Once tapped out on stock turbo mods, we've seen the Airaid/aFe intakes getting around a 7hp gain over the stock airbox, as the air demand overtakes the small OEM snorkel and the turbos start to fight each other to breathe. The open filament intake helps this, but you still start to struggle to breathe above 5500 rpm when 430+ hp.
3.) Full mods, 90%+ wgdc - When you reach this point, you're going 460+ with XDI pump, E30/E50, downpipes, intercooler, etc., we have seen the need for the Dual Feed Intake options (Hennessey, J2, EPP) really come alive. With our own car, we notice an 8% drop in WGDC from the turbos not having to fight each other and an almost 4hp peak gain over the Airaid/aFe intakes.
In my professional opinion, stay with a drop-in filter until you get serious about mods. If you want the flashy intake and some suck suck noises, find a used Airaid/aFe (Airaid also the manufacturer for Roush and LMS intakes), or you can jump to the EPP intake for a one-and-done, but don't expect much of a power difference until full tilt.
For the record, I bought my Airaid intake used on eBay for $100 shipped to my door. If you aren't looking to go 11s or faster, that $450 difference can be easily put toward better tires or to save for an HPFP.
Another perk to the Dual Intake, it allows you to service the transmission fluid without removing anything top side of the engine
Thank you all for the input! Also, do any of you think there is any possible cons of doing it since my sho has above 100k miles? Maintenance is all good on it but I just don’t want any unwanted problems if I were to take out my factory intake. It seems like mostly positive outcomes though
FiveLeeter918
Ortiz Performance Sales
Nah you're fine
Thank u bro
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