Codes Pulled, now what?

[Hubes]

i have a cel light on and talked to my car today so i can make it better. my car told me the following codes:

126
114

126
114

1125 (this one confused me, i looked at it a bunch of times and everytime it gave me a 4 digit or so i thought. i might go back and do it monday and see what the deal is and run them again. i wonder if it could be 135, or 225? )

126

from researching code definitions, my car told me that 114 means that the IAT sensor out of range , and 126 means 126 MAP or BARO sensor out of range. how do i fix these and what do you guys think about the code i had a problem with?
thanks in advance.
jason

 

[sdpatt]

It sounds like you included the separator pulse in the memory code output of probably 126 to get the four-digit number. How cold was the ambient temperature when youran the test? If it was shockingly cold, that could explain the 114 code. If the temp was greater than freezing, you will need a new intake air charge temperature sensor. That is the red-tipped sensor on the passsenger side of the air filter box base. The 126 will most likely require a new barometric pressure sensor. It is mounted on the firewall, about in the middle of the car, above the intake manifold. It is the flat-ish black plastic module standing out from the firewall.

 

[Hubes]

scott, it was extremely cold today. i let the car run up to normal temp range before i pulled the codes. i know what the red pice is in the air box...i can visualize it in my head. how much does a replacement cost for one of those? also, how much does a barometric pressure sensor cost? one final thing, what effects do these have on the performance/routine driving of the vehicle. thanks

 

[projectSHO89]

Jason,

I would wait until it is above 50 degrees, then rerun the codes and see if that ACT sensor code comes back. The recent rash of these reported codes is a little suspicious to me.

The ACT sensor is a Wells SU203 from AutoZone for about $14. It looks like they can also test this sensor if their equipment is working.

The MAP/BP sensor may also be available, depending on your engine. Around $40-50. It is also testable.

Steve

 

[Mr Anonymous]

projectSHO89:
I would wait until it is above 50 degrees...

At the rate the weather in the northeast is going, that should be about AUGUST! eek! (Sorry Jay, had to poke some fun! It's only going to be about 84 here today...)

 

[Hubes]

i wish i was in miami. i will wait to run the codes again, but my cel has been on for about a week and a half.

 

[Hubes]

well those of you in the northeast know how warm it got today so i decided to go outside and run my codes again. here is what i got.

car off:
114 means that the IAT sensor out of range , and

126 means MAP or BARO sensor out of range.

*** i know what to do for those now. do they effect perfomrance?

557 Low speed pump relay primary circuit fault
is this the one that shows if the car has ever stalled?

CAR ON:

116 Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range (i let the car warm up for about 8 mins but it never reached 'L')

136 Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S (both 02's were replaced last may/april)

225 Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) and what does this mean?

 

[Hubes]

bump

 

[Hubes]

anyone, anyone?

 

[projectSHO89]

Repeat the KOEO tests.

Record the hard codes and the memory codes.

Start engine. Take it ALL THE WAY to operating temp. Do not run test if the car s not at full operating temp

Prepare for the KOER test. Start engine. Run at 2K RPM for 2 minutes, then immediately perform the ER test. Do not run the test unless you have "pre-heated" the O2 sensors.

At the indicated time for the "goose test", press pedal ALL THE WAY to the floor and release immediately (stomp it), hit the brake, cyle overdrive, steering wheel turned, etc all within 10 seconds of the flash.

Then repost your codes after having set up and run the test properly.

Steve

 

[Hubes]

will do on monday. thanks steve