I have the following codes: 116 ECT out of limits 167 insufficient throttle response 225 Knock not sensed 327 DPFE output circuit below min. 632 Trans control circuit did not change states. Dont know what the heck some of them are and the locations. I changed the TPS and still got code 167. thanks.:woo-hoo:
Code Advice For '94
- Thread starter 89SHO X2
- Start date
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shonuffmine
wildchild
ect stands for engine coolant temp. it,s under the throttle body towards the firewall sorta looks like a oil pressure sending unit just alittle larger, get a good one made of metal not plastic. i think mine was 12 bucks at car quest..also while you are right there change the thermostat,get on that has a weep or steam hole.the hole goes on top
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
k, these codes all MIGHT mean something else, but I'm going to use my years of experience and intuition to tell you what likely happened.
116 = you didn't let the car warm up enough when you ran the KOER. IIRC the sensor needs to read above ~100 degrees in order to not set a code.
167 = you didn't mash the throttle hard enough (or at all) when you ran the KOER. You need to simply stomp the pedal on the floor for a second when the single blink comes.
225 = see above. The point of the throttle test is to test that the knock sensor works; the ECU advances timing a lot in order to ensure knock when you stomp on the throttle then quickly backs off it again. If you didn't mash the throttle hard enough, the engine won't knock and you'll get this code. ...or, your knock sensor is broken. But I'm willing to bet it's the first one.
327 = this is probably the only real code you got (i.e. the only one not attributable to operator error
). The DPFE is the metal gray thing mounted to the rear driver's side of the intake with an electrical connector and two little vacuum lines going to the EGR valve pipe. Either the sensor broke, the wiring to it broke, the vacuum lines cracked or broke, or the EGR passages in the intake are clogged.
632 = Either your OD switch doesn't work, or you didn't hit it after the blink.
Don't worry about all the operator error codes - it happens to everybody that doesn't read the directions!
After you initiate the KOER test, the CEL will blink 3 times to indicate that it is indeed a 6-cylinder engine. Then there will be not much happening for about 20 seconds while the computer tries to **** the engine (it'll sound like it's trying to die!), then there will be a single blink. You should be prepared for this blink, for immediately after it happens, you must:
curb-stomp the throttle for long enough for it to hit the neutral limiter, then let go;
hit the OD switch (once or twice, doesn't matter - I hit it twice just so the light goes back off)
Turn the steering wheel back and forth about 3/4 turn each way, enough to trip the power steering pressure sensor.
I also hit the brake pedal just cos I think I'm cool.
If you don't do these, you will get a variety of codes such as the ones you describe. Focus on the 327 and figure out why the DPFE isn't outputting enough (they do break frequently).
:wave:
116 = you didn't let the car warm up enough when you ran the KOER. IIRC the sensor needs to read above ~100 degrees in order to not set a code.
167 = you didn't mash the throttle hard enough (or at all) when you ran the KOER. You need to simply stomp the pedal on the floor for a second when the single blink comes.
225 = see above. The point of the throttle test is to test that the knock sensor works; the ECU advances timing a lot in order to ensure knock when you stomp on the throttle then quickly backs off it again. If you didn't mash the throttle hard enough, the engine won't knock and you'll get this code. ...or, your knock sensor is broken. But I'm willing to bet it's the first one.
327 = this is probably the only real code you got (i.e. the only one not attributable to operator error
). The DPFE is the metal gray thing mounted to the rear driver's side of the intake with an electrical connector and two little vacuum lines going to the EGR valve pipe. Either the sensor broke, the wiring to it broke, the vacuum lines cracked or broke, or the EGR passages in the intake are clogged.632 = Either your OD switch doesn't work, or you didn't hit it after the blink.
Don't worry about all the operator error codes - it happens to everybody that doesn't read the directions!
After you initiate the KOER test, the CEL will blink 3 times to indicate that it is indeed a 6-cylinder engine. Then there will be not much happening for about 20 seconds while the computer tries to **** the engine (it'll sound like it's trying to die!), then there will be a single blink. You should be prepared for this blink, for immediately after it happens, you must:
curb-stomp the throttle for long enough for it to hit the neutral limiter, then let go;
hit the OD switch (once or twice, doesn't matter - I hit it twice just so the light goes back off)
Turn the steering wheel back and forth about 3/4 turn each way, enough to trip the power steering pressure sensor.
I also hit the brake pedal just cos I think I'm cool.
If you don't do these, you will get a variety of codes such as the ones you describe. Focus on the 327 and figure out why the DPFE isn't outputting enough (they do break frequently).
:wave:
k, thanks. i still have a light on. assuming it is the dpfe. have not checked it yet. would that effect the way the engine runs? i have been smelling a carbon smell like when you dump seafoam in and it smells like the carbon afterwards that. i also have a rough idle 200-300 or so variation in rpms. misses a little.
jmpSHO
SHO Member
I don't think a bad dpfe would cause any driveability issues as for the bad idle you might want to try cleaning your MAF.
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
the 327 will turn the light on, yes. Most all EGR related codes will, which IMHO is stupid. The EGR will generally not affect the idle or engine operation... if you are missing the first thing I'd look at is plugs/wires. Those two cause almost 80% of stumbling problems. The DIS is usually the other 18%, with 2% being split between the coil and associated wiring.
As far as the hunting idle, that's usually caused by a bad IAC or Idle Air Controller. Try removing it, cleaning all the holes out with carb cleaner, and reinstalling and see if that fixes anything. I mean really clean it good, so that it looks like new inside.
Don't know about the carbon smell.
As far as the hunting idle, that's usually caused by a bad IAC or Idle Air Controller. Try removing it, cleaning all the holes out with carb cleaner, and reinstalling and see if that fixes anything. I mean really clean it good, so that it looks like new inside.
Don't know about the carbon smell.
jmpSHO
SHO Member
Before you start changing out the dpfe check to make sure the two little hoses that connect to it are in good shape.
i have not changed the wires or plugs yet dince i bought the car. did the 60,000 service. changed the IAC once from my 3.0 to the 3.2. it still ran rough. changed the o2 also. changed all the sensors pretty much from my 3.0 because they ran great on my other engine. i installed an air intake, computer, exhaust and did the cam swap. changed the fuel pump 2 times. it idled great when i got it. i will try cleaning the plugs and will swap another IAC. and go from there. thanks all!
hawkeye18
Sorta cares
The IAC is not interchangeable between the 3.0 and the 3.2. The flow rates are different, and it will throw the mixture off. Please get a 3.2L IAC on there.
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