1994 Sho - 3 Digit Codes - Need Help

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Best Sho

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Hello -

I did the paper clip / count check engine light routine and this is what I came up with...

KOEO -

111 System checks OK
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
176 (M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean Left or Front HO22SSS - Fuel control
211 (M) Ignition PIP signal was erratic or missing - Ignition Systems
542 (O,M) Fuel pump open, bad ground or always on - - Power / Fuel Pump Circuits



KOER -

116 (O,R) Engine Coolant (ECT) sensor out of range - ECT
136 (R) Oxygen sensor not switching/system lean Left or Front HO2S - Fuel control
167 (R) No Throttle Position sensor change in "goose" test (must get at least 25% rotation) - TPS (I believe this means I didn't press the gas pedal far or long enough)
172 (R,M) Oxygen sensor not switching - system is or was lean - Single, Right orr Rear HO2S - Fuel control
225 (R) Knock sensor not tested (ignore if not pinging) - KS


These are all the codes I got.
Can anyone explain them to me in terms I will get???
On 167 I get that and with 225 as far I as I can tell I am not getting a knocking nor a pinging!


The codes above were copied from http://www.shophoenixproject.com/eec/code3.htm


I've only had it back on the road about 8 months after sitting about a year.


It a 94 MTX with about 98k


Any help would be appreciated!


Thanks!
Mike



 

NiNeTy Fo SHO

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Sounds like you have a leak in the intake causing a lean condition since both oxygen sensors are saying lean.

You didnt goose it correctly during the test (167) or your gas pedal doesnt work.

542 - means you probably stalled the car at one point in time, then it gives this code.

116 - not sure if this is the sensor in the overflow tank...if so, it may just need cleaned on the end (contacts have crap on them).

If your not pinging, dont worry about that.

I would say...clear all the codes...run the car for awhile (a couple good drives where the car gets up to temp and cools off) and then re-pull the codes.
 

rubydist

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There is a good chance that the 02 sensors need to be changed, as they typically fail by complaining that the engine is running lean. That relates to the 136, 172 and 176 codes.

The way the 116 code shows up is a little confusing, since the koer test complains about it being out of range, but there is no stored code for that. I would reset the codes and see if that one comes back. fyi, the ect is the 2-wire sensor on the firewall side of the housing that the thermostat fits in.

The 211 code is something to watch carefully - if the crank sensor stops working, the car is dead. If that one returns after you reset the codes, I would strongly recommend a new crank sensor.
 

projectSHO89

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116 is almost always due to an engine that is not up to operating temp.

Reset the PCM then re-run the KOER test and make certain you follow the pre-requisites. Make certain you mash the pedal to the floor during the goose test.
 

Best Sho

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Best Way To Reset PCM

Can anyone tell me the best way to reset the PCM???
I've read a few different ways but am not sure what the Best way is!

"Dissconnect battery, turn on head lights and push and hold brake pedal for 10 seconds. Reconnect battery and drive it for several miles to allow PCM to fully reset."

Is this one the best way or is just disconnecting the battery for 10 minutes better or ???

Thanks
 

projectSHO89

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Simplest is to just disconnect the battery's negative cable and walk away for 10 minutes. Hard to screw that up.
 

rubydist

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Except that it takes more than 10 minutes on some of them - my red 94 needs the battery disconnected for over 2 hours to reset the KAM, even if I turn on lights, step on brakes, etc. If you reconnect the battery and the clock displays the correct time, you didn't leave it disconnected long enough - if the clock starts at 12:00, then you are good.
 

rocket455

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im in the same boat as you buddy. and i have been for the past 2 years. i keep getting lean codes on both banks as well even after changing the O2 sensors. I'm currently trying to chase down the problem and i will keep you updated if i find anything at all
 

rocket455

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this just crossed my mind, with the car sitting for a year, do you guys think that possibly the seals on the fuel injectors might have dried out, making a fuel/air leak at the seals which would make it lean?
 

SHOByrds

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im in the same boat as you buddy. and i have been for the past 2 years. i keep getting lean codes on both banks as well even after changing the O2 sensors. I'm currently trying to chase down the problem and i will keep you updated if i find anything at all


I have the same problem...i just posted a new thread about it. first i had code 172 then swithced o2 sensors and now have code 172 and 136..............keep me updated as weel thanks!
 

rubydist

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its possible for the orings to leak, but I've never seen a significant leak from injector orings on the sho motor.

its more likely that you have one or more vacuum hoses that are leaking - they are ancient and have been hot thousands of times and are likely hard as a rock - many opportunities for vacuum leaks.

and, mafs can be dirty/bad which allows more air than is read, which results in lean codes as well.

those two are most likely candidates.
 

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