Code 14 on '89

[Marccus]

'89 w/ 437K

sorry, writing this with very bad/ migraine headache,


excuse poor typing and comprehension of reading posts on cps.

classic starting and dieing failure. run codes. #14 is only one that comes up.

But if I keep throttle open and slowly lower the throttle over 10 minutes, it idels fine and I can drive all day - park, sits for a couple of hours, starts again fine.

But leave it overnight or for eight hours unstarted and get classic start but immnediatlely dies.

Code 14 = bad cps. right?

Go figure.

Changed water pump, timing belt, cps about 10K ago.

i.e. STOCK cps, STOCK water pump, STOCK timing belt lasted 427K.

Now this thing tells me the cps is gone - possibly caused by leaking water pump?

are you kidding me?

water pump definitely not leaking.

sdpatt states in a post (and I wouljd tend to agree) cps is a sealed expoxy unit - very unlikely that water pump leak would cause cps faiure unless massive buildup of green gunk.

Stock cps had hardly any buildup when I replaced it.

any other suggestyions?

probably read them but cant remember.

How about easier changes first? Don't want to think about cps change.

New DIS (its been about two years with that one)?

etc.

BTW, how come the stock stuff lasts 400K, but replace,ent parts last for crap?

Part of aftermarket conspiracy?

Thanks ib advance. Sorry for incomprehension.

Fast repsonse/suggestions appreciayerd.

 

[SHOZ123]

Code 14/211 indicates two successive erratic Profile Ignition Pickup (PIP) pulses occurred, resulting in a possible engine miss or stall.

Possible causes:

-- Loose wires/connectors.

-- Arcing secondary ignition components (coil, cap, rotor, wires, plugs, etc.).

-- On-board transmitter (2-way radio).*

Are any of the above present?

*Verify all radio and condenser installations. Carefully follow manufacturer's installation instructions regarding the routing of antenna and power leads.

 

[Marccus]

No on-board transmitter.

How about that if that little rfi filter for the radio has gone bad?

Checked coil or loose connections. All ok and I use lots of dielectric grease to ensure no water.

I should note that this started after 1 1/2 weeks of steady rain, although it is dry today.

Do you think it would be a good idea to go through each plug individually?

All plug wells are really sealed well against leakage of oil / water from valve covers.

It has been less than 60K since last plug/wire change.

Coil is relatively new.

I'll go through all electrical connections and blow some wire dryer on all of them as well as make sure there is dielectric grease b4 changing things.

Could bad DIS be a culprit or would I definitely get a specific code noting so if this were the problem?

I don't want to change things for nothing, but if it's a possiblity and easy to change, I'd rather start there.

Thanks.

 

[SHOZ123]

I have a DIS for the cheap. If you look in the "How do I" section there is info on testing the DIS.

Beware of too much grease. Dielectric grease is an electrical insulator.

 

[Marccus]

OK. I'll check the "How do I" section and I'll take you up on your offer if the DIS is toast.

Regarding dielectric grease, even though it is an insulator, I didn't know one could overdo it as long as the there was contact between the connections.

But you learn something new everyday.

And, indeed, I may have done just that and perhaps this may be causing some problems!

Thanks for the heads up and I'll go back through my connections and make sure the contacts are WIPED with grease but not GOBBED in grease.

 

[Marccus]

Code 14 Clarification

'89 w/437K

Is there ANY thing else a Code 14 can mean besides a CPS fault.

What's troubling me is this:

After the car has sat for awhile (always overnight), it dies after I start it up.

BUT, if I can keep the throttle high, open to 2K rpm or so, and SLOWLY lower it to 1K over the course of 10 minutes or so, the engine will idle fine and I can drive, stop and start all day with no problem.

If the engine is off for more than a couple of hours or overnight, I have to go through the 10 minutes of slowly lowering the throttle to 1K, sometimes, goosing the throttle back up if it is dropping too fast and heading to stalling.

Sometimes I end up "chasing it" up and down like a yo-yo, trying to get it to settle down above 1K to lower it in a controlled manner.

Eventually I get there.

If the CPS is gone, I shouldn't be able to settle the rpm's out at all and shouldn't be able to stop and start all day.

Is something else going on?

Does anybody have any further insight into what is going on in my situation?

Thanks.

 

[projectSHO89]

Threads merged. Please keep related subjects in same thread.

 

[Ocnaj]

Is it possible that the engine computer could be causing these problems with how many miles are on it? Given that you have the factory computer.

This may be a dumb suggestion but its an idea none the less...