Clutch will not disengage

[edmontonsho]

Here is the problem, I was shifting in to third and it grinded horribly. Then I slowed down and put it back into first with difficulty. After that I could not put it in second. When stopped at a light, I had the clutch pushed all the way in and the car was in first. But the clutch would not disengage fully, so it was hopping around.

I should also add that my motor mounts are worn, incase it makes a difference

I did a search and came up the following posted by NOTSOSLOSHO(?), is there anything that can be added to this.

Unless is was babied by the previous owner for every 51k, you are probably due for a clutch, throw-out bearing, and pressure plate.

There is no adjustment for the SHO clutch... it is "self adjusting"

Other options that would result in your non-dissengaging clutch include:

1. self adjusting clutch is NOT self adjusting (creating slack in the cable)
2. stretched cable (not very likely)

Thanks

<small>[ April 01, 2003, 10:59 AM: Message edited by: edmontonsho ]</small>

 

[SHO--ripper]

Try pulling up on the clutch pedal. If you hear a clicking then your clutch needed adjusting.HOw bad are your motor mounts? if they are really bad this might lead to tranny problems. I would try replacing them yourself because that is cheaper than the clutch and has to be done anyway. If that doesn't do it go to SHOnutpeformance.com and get the oem kit for $219. Good luck.

 

[Blue-By-U]

Same thing happened to me 20k miles ago with my 89. My motor mounts went bad and I kept feathering the clutch to make sure my engine doesn't clunk too much...next thing I know I would have to put all my weight into throwing my car into ANY gear since my clutch was wearing out. You're probably looking at a new TOB and clutch kit as well as front/rear motor mounts.

SOME ADVICE: While you have this clutch and motor mount job done, maybe you or whoever is doing the job can replace easily accessible items such as the following:
rear main seal
subframe bushings
water pump
timing belt

Just a thought
thumbs_u ~Alex

 

[edogg23]

Try not to drive it to much because I had a friend whose clutch gave out like you said and by driving it he ended up taking out two gears in his tranny.

 

[sdpatt]

I beg to differ on the timing belt and water pump having any commonality with the clutch job. It sounds like the throwout bearing and pressure plate have given up and are due to be replaced. Don't delay until you have damaged the transaxle internals.

 

[Doug Waschenko]

If the clutch will not disengage and the cable is not broken then it is a throw out bearing problem.
The throwout bearing retainer on the original transmission is aluminum and had a recall service kit which installed a stainless steel sleeve over it.
If the throwout bearing reatiner doesn't have the sleeve the throw out bearing will gall the retainer, whittling away at it like a jack knife on a tree branch until there is so much clearance that the throw out bearing will **** sideways into the retainer.
It may be repairable with the sleeve, amybe not.
I have also had problems with the throw out bearing wearing through the fingers on the clutch cover (presure plate). That clucth failed at 22,000 miles.
I haven't had a clutch last longer then 32,000 miles in this car.
I can't possibly see how anyone could get 51,000 miles out of a SHO clutch unless 26,000 miles was all down hill. I don't believe that.

 

[edmontonsho]

I brought it to a mechanic so hopefully they can figure it out. While driving there I had a hard time putting it in reverse, and then into first. Sometimes I was able to put it into first easliy, but towards the end the only way to put it into first was to turn in off, then put it into first then start it up.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Doug Waschenko:
I haven't had a clutch last longer then 32,000 miles in this car.
I can't possibly see how anyone could get 51,000 miles out of a SHO clutch unless 26,000 miles was all down hill. I don't believe that.

If you dont abuse your car then wear items will last a bit longer. It is very simple.

I now have a bit more than 45k on the clutch in my '89. The previous one lasted about 40k. and the original barely 18k (the smaller, orignal disk)

My clutch is still going strong, grabs hard, and never slips under load or high rpms. Although it is starting to grab a bit high. Clutch time this summer, among other things. boink

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Doug Waschenko:
If the clutch will not disengage and the cable is not broken then it is a throw out bearing problem.

There are other possibilities...

1. busted mounts
2. clutch pedal assembly manfunction
3. worn/damaged pressure plate

 

[Blue-By-U]

sdpatt
I didn't suggest the timing belt and water pump were causes for his troubles, I just suggested that they could be done while the subframe is dropped.

When I had my clutch done buy some mechanic friend in Mass, he mentioned while under the car he has easy access to all those parts. A mechanic working for a garage might be a different story.

thumbs_u
~Alex

 

[SHO_Driver]

I can't possibly see how anyone could get 51,000 miles out of a SHO clutch unless 26,000 miles was all down hill. I don't believe that.

I have 110K miles on my clutch. If it isn't abused or suffering from some mechanical problems it'll last. TOB is noisy but disc doesn't slip yet.

 

[Rob94]

NotSoSlowSHO:

Doug Waschenko:
I haven't had a clutch last longer then 32,000 miles in this car.
I can't possibly see how anyone could get 51,000 miles out of a SHO clutch unless 26,000 miles was all down hill. I don't believe that.

If you dont abuse your car then wear items will last a bit longer. It is very simple.

I now have a bit more than 45k on the clutch in my '89. The previous one lasted about 40k. and the original barely 18k (the smaller, orignal disk)

My clutch is still going strong, grabs hard, and never slips under load or high rpms. Although it is starting to grab a bit high. Clutch time this summer, among other things. boink

60k on my clutch, and still feels and shifts like brand new. It's a passenger vehicle, not a race car. Beat on it, and things are gonna let go.

 

[gosho89]

For you guys with early clutch burn out, this may be something to consider. I personally tore a clutch out of an early 5.0 because of an automatic clutch cable adjuster (or quadrant). I went to a aftermarket manual adjuster to correct the problem. This is my current issue in my sho, the clutch has always had a high engagement since I've owned it, recently I replaced the clutch which had about 50k according to the original owners reciepts. Parts included new disc, pp, tob, all new bushings parts etc..... Once installed the clutch pedal had a low release point for 20 miles until the auto adjuster went to work, and change the release point to the high side again. I then install a new quadrant (auto adjuster kit) and clutch cable. No change. My theory is the auto adjuster is causing to much tension on the cable which is causing the TOB to prematuraly wear on the fingers. This was the same problem I had with the 5.0 that shortened its clutch life. I have contacted a quadrant supplier for the 5.0's and shipped him my old parts including the cable to see if he can fab up a solid manual adjustable type to correct this problem. Funny thing is the quadrant kit ford sells for the SHO's also was once used in early 5.0 mustangs 83-89. Now when you order one for your early 5.0's you get a update replacement kit that won't mount in the SHO's.

<small>[ April 02, 2003, 03:49 PM: Message edited by: gosho89 ]</small>