I’m gettting ready to do the clutch on my 89 sho. I have a couple questions for the guys that have done it, my sho is in good shape other than the clutch but what else do I need to do the job? Like seals or ect? I’m not going all out or anything I just wanna fix the clutch and drive my car and what should I refill the clutch with atx thank you In advance. First time owner all the help will be appreciated.
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The clutch itself is dry, but atf is used in the transmission.
Since you will have to drop the trans, you should look carefully at the output shaft seals and likely replace them unless you know they are relatively newer.
Since you will have to drop the trans, you should look carefully at the output shaft seals and likely replace them unless you know they are relatively newer.
Output shaft seals as already mentioned. Check your rear main seal. This would be the perfect time to change it if it's leaking. Shift shaft seal. Now is the perfect time to do it. While the subframe is down would be a great time to change your sway bar bushings. Subframe bushings if they are older or go ahead and upgrade to Gen3 if they are stockers.
Some people use Mercon in the trans. Others use Synchromesh. I think it depends on which synchros you have as to which works better.
Some people use Mercon in the trans. Others use Synchromesh. I think it depends on which synchros you have as to which works better.
Also, while you have the trans out would be a good time to add a drain plug if you were interested in doing that.
sperold
Last to Know
Get a new donut gasket at the end of your Y-Pipe. It comes in a kit with bolts and springs that allow the joint to flex.
Start soaking the exhaust studs and nuts on the cast iron exhaust manifold. It usually takes a lot of heat to get the nuts off, or the studs out. The Y-Pipe is removed to make everything else easier.
I have bought a new clutch cable when I did a clutch, but I could not help but notice the one I put in was exactly the same length as the one I took out.
There is a video available from Shonut the details the procedure, and would be a big help if you are doing this yourself.
Make sure you buy a 9 3/4" clutch, not the 9 1/4" that pops up from time to time.
Plan on resurfacing the flywheel, and a lot of people simply get one in advance and have it available and refinished at clutch time.
Start soaking the exhaust studs and nuts on the cast iron exhaust manifold. It usually takes a lot of heat to get the nuts off, or the studs out. The Y-Pipe is removed to make everything else easier.
I have bought a new clutch cable when I did a clutch, but I could not help but notice the one I put in was exactly the same length as the one I took out.
There is a video available from Shonut the details the procedure, and would be a big help if you are doing this yourself.
Make sure you buy a 9 3/4" clutch, not the 9 1/4" that pops up from time to time.
Plan on resurfacing the flywheel, and a lot of people simply get one in advance and have it available and refinished at clutch time.
Depending on whether you plan to just fix it or keep the car for a long time, there are some goodies from SHOnutperformance.com that you may want to consider using: Ceramic throw-out bearing (TOB), teflon release shaft bushings, allen-key pressure plate bolts. The SHOnut video is definitely worth getting. Keep in mind he ships only on Thursday. Definitely change the engine rear main seal, but don't mess with the carrier gasket (unless you are going to remove the oil pan too for some reason). X2 on replacing the exhaust donut, but get the Walker 31372 (probably need to order), not the ***** Felpro one. Also replace the exhaust stud nuts; Ford N620482-S2. While the clutch is out is an optimum time to inspect or replace the coolant hoses located right above the tranny; particularly the heater hose with the silver crimped metal end that secures the rubber piece to the hard pipe. It's usually recommended to change the two drive shaft seals in the tranny; two of Timken 3622 and hard-to-find Permatex 515 anerobic ****** sealant. I recommend Mobil 1 Synthetic ATF in the tranny; you are probably aware that the bolt that looks like it must be the drain plug is not the drain plug, and should not be removed.
batchman
SHO Member
Echoing Bob's point on "just fix" or "keeping a long time", few things will change the car as much as a lightweight flywheel. It can be some trouble but it is worth it.
Good luck,
- Jeff
Good luck,
- Jeff
The 8 lb Fidanza sure made the 92 3.o VERY rev happy 
http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_5_25&products_id=69
http://www.shosource.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=61_5_25&products_id=69
sperold
Last to Know
If you do this yourself, you will need an engine support system, and Nick Chrimes has a plan for you to build your own.
http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Engine_Support_Beam
I don't want to throw cold water on anyone's fun, but I found you had to re-learn how to pull away from a stop light with an aluminum flywheel. Tons of fun once you are moving, but sometimes embarrassing when you stall.
http://www.wikisho.com/wiki/Engine_Support_Beam
I don't want to throw cold water on anyone's fun, but I found you had to re-learn how to pull away from a stop light with an aluminum flywheel. Tons of fun once you are moving, but sometimes embarrassing when you stall.
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