clutch sevice update #6: third time's the charm

[Bank of SHO]

Well my car is finally road worthy. Took it apart for a third time and returned the clutch kit after eliminating all other possibilities. The Fidanza is gone for good. YAY!!! An Unorthodox aluminum flywheel took its place. Shifting is good and even goes into reverse easily. Put on about 150 break-in miles so far-- babying it. The clutch grabs well, but is yet untested at higher rpms. Will 500 break-in miles be enough, or is 1,000 really needed? It is the TZ kevlar clutch.

Thanks to all who've helped me through this nightmare. Special thanks go to Scott and Masho95. Neither of you will ever know how much you really helped me.

Sincerely,
Tom

 

[Blue-By-U]

Congrats on getting your car road worthy. I think 500 miles of around town driving would be fine. If you frequent the highway I would push that number to 1000.

 

[rlw001]

What was wrong with the Fidanza flywheel? How is the Unorthodox aluminum flywheel better/different? I almost ordered a Fidanza flywheel today? Also which clutch and PP are you using?

 

[Blue-By-U]

What was wrong with the Fidanza flywheel? How is the Unorthodox aluminum flywheel better/different? I almost ordered a Fidanza flywheel today? Also which clutch and PP are you using?

"It is the TZ kevlar clutch."

 

[Bank of SHO]

Long story about the Fidanza, but the short answer is there was a dowl problem. The car would not shift properly even after trimming them after a second service. What little driving it saw evidenced a propensity to slip. I was very careful to assemble according to the video and written directions. You can read more about it in the previous updates. So far the new setup is great.

The Unorthodox insert covers the entire clutch disc. On the Fidanza the disc covered some of the aluminum. Whatever the reasons, the new system has me smiling for now. I'll reserve final judgement after the big dog eats...after break-in. Almost put the oem flywheel back on; glad I didn't now.

 

[shojuan]

The Unorthodox insert covers the entire clutch disc.

That's because Southbend made your TZ clutch 9.5" to fit the 9.5" Unorthodox flywheel.

I would break it in for at least 1000 miles. Kevlar likes a nice long, smooth break in period. If you don't tend to be smooth with clutches when you're not breaking them in then I would make sure to be smooth for several thousand miles after breakin. Let that clutch slip a little bit while shifting. The lining's not going anywhere and the kind treatment will reward you with good service for a long time. Contrary to what some might think you're not going to harm clutch life by not trying to minimize clutch slippage during shifts. I've NEVER worn a clutch out prematurely on any vehicle and I tend to slip the clutch quite a bit during shifts. On the SHO I'm pushing about 100,000 miles on the current clutch. I believe that brief period of slippage helps keep a healthy fresh surface on the friction lining.

I'll be interested in hearing more about how you like that clutch/flywheel combination. That has been my top candidate for my SHO's next clutch.

How is the Unorthodox aluminum flywheel better/different?

The Unorthodox is made to finer machining tolerances and a higher quality friction insert is used. The insert has more desirable friction and wear properties.

 

[Bank of SHO]

Rick,
I drive it smoothly too at all times; never dumped the clutch before and never will. Shifting at lower rpms for the break-in, it slips a little then grabs quite well. Should I force it to slip a bit more? I thought slipping was to be limited during break-in. I don't seem to have a good grasp of what is supposed to happen to the clutch mating surfaces during break-in. My thought was that excessive slipping would hinder engagement after the break-in period. I know you said "a little bit". I suspect though that I'm actually driving it like you said to.

Is there a physical difference between organic and kevlar break-in, or is the principle the same?

BTW, you explained the smaller disc for me. Had to eye the gap between the disc and the flywheel insert to center it. The disc is slightly smaller than the insert. Using the "finger flush" method of centering on the three sides of the pp/disc is not an option with this setup. It wasn't too hard to do though; just took my time to get it right.

Cheers to the Forum, my continuing education

Tom