Clutch Problems

[Pottski]

I just have a couple of questions about the problems I am having with my 90 mtx.
First of all, the clutch is slipping when I start off in first gear and through the other gears unless I keep the RPMs up above 3,000rpm, so, any ideas what could be causing that? The car has over 100K on it and it is probably the original clutch. Second, what does it take to replace the clutch and pressure plate. I read in a repair manual that the engine and Trans. both have to come out. How much will it cost to have that done if Ican't do it myself? That's about it for now. Thanks for your help.

pottski


1990 mtx

 

[SW SHO]

Welcome to the forum. There have been many posts on this very subject. If you use the search function above for "clutch replacement" or similar you'll have plenty of posts.

Having a 90 will mean first you need to verify you have the 9.75 inch flywheel. Stock it would have come with a 9.25 that Ford should have offered to replace on recall free. If not, you will want to do this anyway.

You do not need to pull the engine out, only support it while you pull the tranny. I recommend getting the clutch video available from www.shonutperformance.com. It will not only explain in detail, but give you ideas on other items you can/should replace during the clutch work. I wasn't sure I could do it, and I did

Doing it yourself will save you around $600 buck in labor and buying the parts yourself. Most shops would charge you around a grand or more, plus how can you trust someone with your SHO unless they've done the work before. Don't get me wrong, mechanics anywhere could do this, but I've had guys put my wheels on an over torque the lug nuts so I wouldn't dream of letting a stranger touch my tranny.

Again, use the search feature and you'll see plenty of posts; like these:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=9138

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=32812&highlight=clutch+replacement

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=34578

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=33721

 

[Cobraii976]

I've written up the clutch replacement a few times and it's not that bad to do. Just drop the starter out and verify which clutch you have. The 9.25 uses a thin stamped pressure plate maybe a 1/2 inche thick total. The 9.75 uses a big cast pressure plate about 2 inches thick. Then it's just a matter of getting it in the air dropping the subframe and trans etc etc etc. If your not having any luck with the search function PM me and I'll write it up for you.

 

[qiksho]

First thing I would do is try the auto-adjuster. It tells you how to do this in your owners manual. I THINK you do it by lifting up on the clutch pedal when in nuetral, but I don't remember exactly.

On another note, it isn't super hard to do yourself. I have done two of them now and I don't have many specialized tools.

Special tools you will need:
a torque wrench (possibly two) its been awhile
a 32 millimeter socket to get off the axle nut?? might be wrong...might be 30mm
a engine support of some sort (I custom made mine at work out of steel, many have made them out of wood)
There is complete write up on how to do this, I have followed it and it is pretty good.

The video is also very helpful I watched it the first time I did it myself.

The receipts I got with the 89 I purchased showed the previous owner had the clutch replaced for 600 bucks U.S. which to me is a very good deal. It took me 12 hours my first time, but most of that was because I had exhaust studs that broke in the manifold. Would probly only take me 8 hours to do one now, with all the tools ready to go.

 

[AutoSHO]

You do not have to remove the axle nuts to do the clutch.

 

[DHMag]

You do not have to remove the axle nuts to do the clutch.

just be careful not to tear the boots while suspending them.

 

[SW SHO]

I used the plastic covers from a Playtex baby bottle found at Savon Drugs.

See here:

http://www.shoforum.com/showthread.php?t=33685

 

[qiksho]

You do not have to remove the axle nuts to do the clutch.

Correct...I have just found it alot easier to remove the axle nuts and remove them from the hub. I like having them out of the way when I remove the transmission.

 

[revhardSHO]

Correct...I have just found it alot easier to remove the axle nuts and remove them from the hub. I like having them out of the way when I remove the transmission.

Yeah its a good idea. What is the torque spec for the axle nut anyway?

 

[AutoSHO]

Mine weren't in the way at all when I pulled my transmission... I had them suspended under the body facing towards the back of the car. I wouldn't want to deal with retorquing that nut to 170-200 Ft Ibs, much less getting it separated from the hub.

Like this:

(except I didn't have a lift to rest mine on... )

 

[qiksho]

Mine weren't in the way at all when I pulled my transmission... I had them suspended under the body facing towards the back of the car. I wouldn't want to deal with retorquing that nut to 170-200 Ft Ibs, much less getting it separated from the hub.

Like this:

(except I didn't have a lift to rest mine on... )

I didn't have a lift either...I had 4 heavy duty jackstands. I have always delt with the c/v shafts with extreme care since one of my buddies seperated the joint on his when pulling a tranny in a different car. The first time I did it I tied them out of the way, but I was paranoid I would bump it out of the wire holster I had made for it and the joint would seperate. Thus I decided to remove them from now on. I have a nice 3/4 drive torque wrench with about a 6 foot hande on it, so torqueing the axle nut to 200ft-lbs is no big deal for me

But whatever works best for you I guess. It's probly another step that most don't need to do, and has potential to create more problems, but for the assurance I won't wreck the c/v shaft I will do it anyway.