Clutch Pedal Vibration

[Matts93SHO]

I'm restoring an 89 SHO that my fater purchased brand new. He lost interest in the car a few years back and recently gave it to me. The car really hasn't been driven much at all in the last 2 years (I'd say less than 1000 miles)I went down and got it and put a new battery in it and drove 100 miles home. I would say that I have put another 300-400 miles on it in the couple of weeks that I've had it. There is a horrible vibration in the clutch petal. It's so annoying that you have to drive the car with your leg up against it so it doesn't vibrate. I'm pretty sure the front motor mount is bad. Could this cause it? The car runs and drives awesome. It shifts exactly as it should and the clutch was put in just before my father quit driving the car. The vibration was not there after the clutch was replaced. He said he noticed it last summer when hee took it out for a drive and was always going to have someone look into it, but it never got done. Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated. I'm hoping to sand the car and get it painted within the next couple of weeks, but I don't want to do anything till I get this fixed.

 

[MOSHO92]

I would think that a bad TOB could cause that. Or if any of the pressure plate fingers have broken they may be banging against the TOB and causing a rattle. How is the clutch otherwise?

 

[Zap]

If Loctite was not used on the Pressure Plate bolts, then they could have started to back out.

Per SHOTimes:

"Sometimes during a clutch replacement, the clutch cover-to-flywheel bolts don't get torqued properly and start backing out. The symptoms are shifting difficulty due to incomplete clutch disengagement, noise or clicking when shifting, and vibration with light pedal pressure near the top of the pedal travel. There is a TSB on this, 93-1-12 which lists the symptoms and indicates that NEW bolts must be used (part # N806606-S100, 6 required) and the bolts must be Loctited and properly stage-torqued per the shop manual."

 

[AutoSHO]

What he said. Sounds like the PP bolts are backing out.

 

[RStalveyARFF]

Since things come in threes, I'll concur with the rest of the guys. I actually had this happen to me, and tried to go as long as I could without opening everything back up. The end result: a 15k old pressure plate with 5 broken fingers and a shredded TOB and quill sleeve.

 

[Zap]

Yep, that is exactly what happens, too.

Sadly, Joy's '94 suffered this exact fate when she had just gotten it. The clutch pedal was vibrating, but otherwise the clutch was smooth and shifted beautifully. While I was driving back from the store one day, the clutch started making noise really badly, like a fishing reel casting line. I parked it when we got back and said that it wasn't going anywhere until I figured out what was going on. Decided on clutch failure, and discovered when everything was pulled apart that the TOB face had actually sheared off, exposing the ball bearings, and had worn a huge groove in the PP. There were two rings of metal from the TOB sitting on the input shaft! eek! The disc was still in excellent shape though. I still need to measure it with a set of calipers to see exactly how good it really is...

<small>[ February 29, 2004, 05:54 AM: Message edited by: Zap ]</small>

 

[sleep7]

Holy crap eek! ! Those are the same problems on my car. Ever since my mechanic did the clutch job, its been a little difficult to shift. Now I have the clutch vibration, a tick-tick sound, and its even harder to shift now. I'm going to show that quote from SHOtimes to him.

 

[Matts93SHO]

I just spoke with my dad about this and he said that after the last clutch replacement that the car shifted better than the day it had when he got it brand new. If I take the car to my mechanic and the plate and to bearing are bad, what do you guys think I'm looking at cost wise to get it fixed? Do you thing that I will just need to replace the bolts or am I looking at the whole thing? THANKS FOR THE HELP! ! !