Clutch not fully disengaging

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aleclance

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Ok, I have a problem with my clutch not fully disengaging anymore. I just a bought a 1992 SHO with 127,000 miles that had a new clutch put in less than 3k ago. I'm doing about 55mph and *think* I go from 3rd to 4th, but hit 2nd gear instead, (I've owned four SHOs, my first rod shifter, I missed a little) and my clutch pedal goes soft, completely limp. I stop, **** the engine, and restart. The pedal seems fine, I depress the clutch and shift into 1st, but when I depress it in first at approx 3k RPM, the engine just barely slows down, like the clutch pedal was only lightly pressed, but it was to the floor. So I couldn't get into second without forcing it out of gear. At very low RPMs it will shift with ease, but not anything much higher than idle. The tranmission has been rebuilt 2 years ago, and before this, everything was tight, no slippage. Is this a cable problem or sychros or TOB? I tried pressing the clutch up by hand, it didn't click. Oh, and now when I depress the clutch while driving in 1st, there is a rattling noise coming from somewhere near or in the tranny. Also, the clutch engagement has always been very high. Please I need help diagnosing, I am at a loss
3SHOd.JPG
 

SHO--ripper

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I think your problem is your TOB. Try detaching the Clutch cable from the TOB fork at the top of the trans. See if you can move the fork. You may have a clutch cable issue also.
 

autobahnsho

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Ouch. Clutch issues suck.

Sounds to me like it's the TOB, too. Mine was acting like that, too, and when I tore it apart the TOB was pretty much seized up & had worn on the pressure plate. And one of the inner springs on the disc had come OUT of the outer spring and as just bouncing around loose..

Unfortunately mine gave NO indication it was even close to wearing out until it just plain didn't work- I found out trying to shift into first.

Good luck.
 

aleclance

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thanks for the advice, when I disconnect the clutch cable from the TOB fork, what should I look for? If I can move the fork, does that mean it's NOT the TOB? And replacing the TOB, how much labor am I looking at, I don't think I have the knowledge to do it myself, just wondering what a decent shop should charge? Thanks
 

SHO_Driver

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Do a search on adjusting the clutch cable by manually moving the adjuster under the pedal. If you're lucky it could be an undertensioned cable.
 

autobahnsho

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aleclance:
thanks for the advice, when I disconnect the clutch cable from the TOB fork, what should I look for? If I can move the fork, does that mean it's NOT the TOB? And replacing the TOB, how much labor am I looking at, I don't think I have the knowledge to do it myself, just wondering what a decent shop should charge? Thanks
It's some serious $$$$. I've heard $300-500. You have to pull the y-pipe and shifter off. Remove the axles, lift the engine a little so you can remove the subframe (a hollowed- square which holds the engine and bolts to the frame of the car). Then you remove the transmission from the engine and the clutch and TOB are right there.

Contact Sdpatt, he has procedures he might email you. You can get a video from shonutperformance.com that tells you how to do it.

I have access to a garage full of tools so did it myself, I'm a novice and it took me around 20 hrs throughout a few days. If I'd watched the video more than once I could have saved around 4-6 hours.. The hardest parts to get might be jackstands and a device to lift the engine. You can make an engine lift out of wood or pipe- Again, Scott would be an excellent source of info.

Good luck!
 

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