Clutch Comparison?

[turbo79]

I have to replace my clutch (original) in my '92, I'm not going with a performance clutch, but can anyone chime in with any comparisons between a Valero (OEM) and a LUK clutch assembly, quality-wise?

Many thanks!

Tom

 

[itwonder]

As far as I can tell, the one significant variable wrt a "stock" clutch is who rebuilds the pressure plate and in particular how good a job they do with the straps. It's not clear to me who actually rebuilds those pressure plates, but it would not surprise me if a lot of them used in the various brand name kits are actually rebuilt in the same place.

There are no new pressure plates available, so all are rebuilt one way or another. Luk seems to be a reliable brand.

 

[kevinspann]

If they are rebuilt, why are there no core charges?

 

[sperold]

My clutch kit was a Rhino-Pack, which sounds less than wonderful, but it turned out great. No issues at all.
I went with the ceramic throw out bearing and it has been very good as well.
For me, I would get the clutch that is on sale when you need it, and get the Ceramic TOB with the savings. The TOB is the source of clutch grief, so concentrate on it.

 

[91PDXmocha]

My clutch kit was a Rhino-Pack, which sounds less than wonderful, but it turned out great. No issues at all.
I went with the ceramic throw out bearing and it has been very good as well.
For me, I would get the clutch that is on sale when you need it, and get the Ceramic TOB with the savings. The TOB is the source of clutch grief, so concentrate on it.

Rhino pack clutches are Luk pressure plates, Aisin friction disks and a generic revision B TOB.

 

[jedhead]

I use Clutch Masters Stage 1. Upgraded pressure plate stock clutch.
Comparison in the photo. CM on the right.

[/IMG]

Bob

 

[JRA2000TL]

Valeo = stock
Valero = gas station

 

[turbo79]

Valeo = stock
Valero = gas station

I realized that last night, watching the Valero Alamo Bowl. Forgive the extra letter...

 

[turbo79]

My clutch kit was a Rhino-Pack, which sounds less than wonderful, but it turned out great. No issues at all.
I went with the ceramic throw out bearing and it has been very good as well.
For me, I would get the clutch that is on sale when you need it, and get the Ceramic TOB with the savings. The TOB is the source of clutch grief, so concentrate on it.

From what I've heard, I'm thinking the same...

 

[AREA 91]

What mods do you have done to the car?
This helps determine what clutch you should buy.
No matter what, I HIGHLY recomend a Ceramic TOB from SHO NUT/SHO SOURCE!!! This really help's with the life of the pressure plate.

 

[Whydah91]

I replaced the original clutch {Valeo} in my '91 at 74K, with an oem {Valeo} kit, now at 190K it's starting to get a little 'itchy'. I drive the car fast, but don't 'dog' it. How long do ya figure these things to last, given the rep that SHOs have had with clutches since day one?
Mike

 

[sperold]

It is all about your throw out bearing (TOB) and your pressure plate fingers.
I have never actually worn out a clutch disc. Driving "fast" doesn't have much to do with how long the clutch assembly will last.
The TOB eventually eats through your dainty pressure plate fingers. It is a diaphram clutch and that is how they are built - lots of little fingers.
Some say you can prolong the life by keeping the play in the cable to a minimum.
The TOB runs constantly while your motor is running, and the inner bearing of the TOB gives up because it reaches its endurance limit. That slow down, rubs the face of the pressure plate fingers and eventually wears through them.

 

[shobote]

Stock disc with the ceramic TOB, and a reinforced PP from Shonut will be an improvement over the stock assembly and should last a long time.

 

[turbo79]

What mods do you have done to the car?
This helps determine what clutch you should buy.
No matter what, I HIGHLY recomend a Ceramic TOB from SHO NUT/SHO SOURCE!!! This really helps with the life of the pressure plate.

It's pretty close to stock, just BBBs, manifold port and polish, 73 mm MAF, SHO Source 2.5 " exhaust, DynoMax Y-Pipe, Magnaflo mufflers, not much else. Besides the ceramic TOB, I'm seriously considering a SHO Source steel flywheel (4 lbs. lighter). I don't figure that will stress the clutch, although I do know that it won't move from standing start quite as easlly.

From what I'm hearing, probably a LUK, maybe a Stage 1. Overall cost is an issue, and since I don't blast away from traffic stops, I can't see the value in anything beyond stock or stock equivalent (like a LUK).

 

[JRA2000TL]

FWIW, I have no idea how many miles are on my clutch on the 95, but the car has close to 152k on it, and the clutch disk is worn. From what I've been told, the 3 PO's were all "adults" rather than young kids, and I don't think the car was ever dogged. My clutch is actually slipping and my TOB is also worn---so it's possible that mine is the OE clutch.

I'm debating on the ceramic TOB for the $115 extra. I don't beat the **** out of my cars, and the clutch job is going to set me back $650 (which is pretty reasonable). I have owned the car a little over a year and put 6k on it (2k of those miles were the convention trip itself). I figure a stock replacement clutch and TOB should last me more than awhile at the rate I put miles on mine.

I asked the question the OP asked before and was pretty much told stock clutches are fine and the ceramic TOBs are recommended. Performance clutches are only recommended if you beat the snot out of your car, track it, etc. For just DDing, a stock one is fine. Some folks have their brand preferences still, but as stated, all of the PP discs should be Valeo; and the TOB is the weaker part of the system.

 

[sperold]

Look into that Ceramic TOB again. I think when I put mine in, it was around $50.00. I would take a chance on the stock one, if they are really that much now.

 

[shobote]

It's pretty close to stock, just BBBs, manifold port and polish, 73 mm MAF, SHO Source 2.5 " exhaust, DynoMax Y-Pipe, Magnaflo mufflers, not much else. Besides the ceramic TOB, I'm seriously considering a SHO Source steel flywheel (4 lbs. lighter). I don't figure that will stress the clutch, although I do know that it won't move from standing start quite as easlly.

From what I'm hearing, probably a LUK, maybe a Stage 1. Overall cost is an issue, and since I don't blast away from traffic stops, I can't see the value in anything beyond stock or stock equivalent (like a LUK).

There should be no noticable diference in launching with the lighter steel flywheel for a DD. The OEM clutch in my 89 was the smaller lighter flywheel, and it drove great, and the original clutch lasted 135k before the TOB gave out. SInce you derive it unagressivley and price is an issue, you should be fine with just the LUK and don't bother with the flywheel or ceramic TOB, as the Rev B TOB's are relaible.

 

[JRA2000TL]

Look into that Ceramic TOB again. I think when I put mine in, it was around $50.00. I would take a chance on the stock one, if they are really that much now.

It is just north of $100 bucks both at SHOnut and SHOsource.

 

[Brett]

just pulled the transmission off the motor i blew in my 93. about 12k miles, stage 3 spec with ceramic TOB, PP fingers are being chewed. Not sure if that is installation error or what but, kinda grumpy about dropping 100+ bucks on TOB to prevent said effect.

 

[sperold]

When you are looking for a clutch on RockAuto or whatever, stick to the upper years like 1995, as when you look in the years around 1990, they want to sell you their out-of-date 9 1/4" systems.
I see my RhinoPack assembly is less than $220.00 these days, and it comes with a release bearing (TOB).
The $100.00 plus Ceramic TOB seems out of range.
For that price, it should last long enought for you to leave it in your will to your grandchildren.