Clunking/nocking in front left of car when turning??

[SHOntell]

Last week I started noticing a clunk/or knock noise in my left front fender area when turning. I am not sure if it is a tie rod, ball joint issue, lubrication problem or if something is loose or what.
It started and persisted for about a day, went away for three days while it rained, came and went a few more days and came back today (seemed louder) It clunks when I turn left or right, at lower speeds. Do I have reason to be concerned??

Thanks, Mike

 

[XLSuruaT]

I experienced similar problems with my 96lx. For a year, I had clunking when turning after the car was driven for a while. Then it started happening during acceleration and deacceleration. Ford has a tsb for 96-97 taurii which the sub frame insulators should be replaced. It took me about an hour and I didn't jack the car up. You may want to look into that.

 

[mholhut]

http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/clunk.html

 

[JaySHOguy]

I had some clunking as well. First, I replaced the 2 rear-most front subframe bushings(which were toast at 76k miles). Then, because of the car being solid,i realized another noise. This time it turns out to be the steering rack. If I move the steering wheel back and forth quickly, i can hear it/feel.

So, start with the bushings. They are cheap enough. I ordered them from www. FordPartsNetwork

Replace the two bolts also. I can get you the part numbers too, if you need them.

 

[SHOntell]

So would this be covered by a warranty??

I have a year left on my warranty and would love to not have to pay too much.

 

[JaySHOguy]

When I replaced the bushings, the total parts cost, including shipping, was about $50. You may need to get an alignment afterwards, though.

Here are the part numbers and the quantity you need: 2x YF1Z-5400155-AA Bushing
2x F6DZ-5400396-A Bushing
2x N804442-S426 Bolt

Very easy job to do, if you have the tools. My aftermarket warranty did not cover this repair, as they claimed it was a "Body Repair". BS, if you ask me.

 

[heysuperman]

the rear lower ones are the ones that you should replace. cost less than $25 for both if you don't have a hook up in the parts department. i only paid $16 total for the 2 rear lower insulators. Took about a 1/2 hour since the passenger side insulator was stuck. You'll need air tools (18mm bolt). if you do one side at a time(don't take apart both sides! do one remove both insulators. remove and replace one side at a time) you won't have to worry about your alignment.

burn_out

 

[SHOntell]

My problem is in the front, is it the same procedure?? I really have minimal car experience and this is getting out of my league. Brakes are about as far as I can go.

As far as the TSB by ford, do they then do it for for free, or is it only recalls that are free??

Mike

 

[XLSuruaT]

SHOntell:
My problem is in the front, is it the same procedure?? I really have minimal car experience and this is getting out of my league. Brakes are about as far as I can go.

It took me an hour to do them for my 96lx. Im sure the procedure is exactly the same. I was lazy and I didn't lift the car up and I didn't have any air tools. All I had was an old fashion torque wrench (the one which has a meter on it) and an 18mm socket and rachet. I just slapped a jack under the subframe and supported it while I unbolted the insulator. It comes off the same direction as the bolt does, trust me, it is an easy job, just get the parts and you'll see what we're saying. In my case, I did not replace the bolts because the TSB didn't say anything about them. I just used some threadlock (which was mentioned in the tsb) on them. Do you guys think it would be a good idea to go back and replace the bolts?

 

[mholhut]

Mike,

I think you're a bit confused here. All the subframe bushings are on the front of the car, but there are two that sit towards the nose and two that sit near the footwells. When he said the one's in the rear had to be replaced, he was talking about the rearmost set, the ones under the footwells that are more prone to failing.

Here is a pic of the subframe, which is basicly an engine and tranny support frame:


The procedure for the subframe is at: http://www.v8sho.com/SHO/subframe.html

 

[SHOZ123]

I've got a clunking but I don't thinbk it's the subframe bushings. I have solid aluminum ones in and they are nice and tight.

I think mine is the strut bearings. I ordered some of them yesterday.

 

[sholando]

Mike,
I have a dumb question...have you checked the Front Sway bar end links? My wife's 97 had clunking, it sounded like a CV joint going bad. It was really bad in the rain. Took the car in, they said the Sway Bar links were both no good.
I'm awaiting the parts to arive to install them.
Rob

 

[SHOntell]

Thanks for the replies fellas, I think I am to take it to my mechanic and have him look at it or else the local for dealer. It may be better than diagnosing it myself since my knowledge on these types types of scenarios is limited at best. I guess you could say I am a bit of a tool when it comes to anything more difficult than an intake, or breaks or washing my car

Thanks again, Mike thumbs_u

 

[JCU]

Last february I had a front end noise, like is being described here, when I turned the wheel. When I took it in for service, it turned out to be the end links needed replacing as well as the front struts being shot.

 

[sholando]

Any updates on your problem? Did you get it fixed yet?

 

[SHOntell]

Haven't had it fixed yet. It comes and goes. It has been gone for a little while and my mechanic told me not to bring it in until it is making the noise. What a hassle!!! Oh well though, it isn't bothering me right now.
I'll let ya know. THanks for the interest

Mike