Cleaning MAF Sensor

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Larry Bialecki

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For 6 months I have been chasing down a problem with my 93 ATX. (See other input to the
forum under my name.) The vehicle has 171K miles on it and I am the second owner, getting
it with 79K on it. It has had no scheduled maintenance with the exception of the timing
change, no ATX repair, and no major breakdowns. In the beginning of the summer I started
to have shifting problems. The 3 to 2 downshift was acting up during a power downshift.
The ATX would try to downshift but
would take too much time to get to second and feel like it was slipping. A 647 error was
generated and the ATX would change shifting schedule from then on, no longer ever trying
to shift into third regardless of going up or down. This condition would clear after turning
off the ignition. I spent a lot of time trying to determine the cause of the problem, flushing
out the ATX, changing the Vehicle Velocity Sensor, considering pulling and inspecting the ATX
valve body. There was never any gunk or parts in the ATX pan and no signs of slipping.
I got to the point where I would just manually down shift when I suspected that a 3 to 2
power downshift would be required.

At the same time this was all happening, I was also experiencing some loss of power,
although I only realize this by hindsight. It appears that I lost about 20% of my power.
I could tell this because my gas mileage dropped from 24 to 21 MPG and I could no longer
climb the same hill, under the same conditions, in overdrive as before with out dropping down
to third. I also started to get an occasional engine light during city driving which lasted for
about 30 seconds and indicated both O2 sensors were bad (error 281 and 289). Replacing
the O2 sensors did not stop the occasional engine light. There were no other engine light
indications. I also replaced the fuel pump and plugs.

Based on comments from the forum regarding other SHO problems I decided to look at the
MAF sensor. I used a dremel to cut notches into the screws and carefully removed the sensor.
And guess what I saw? The sensor elements were covered on the air inlet side with black
soot, which was only obvious when looking under a magnifying glass. I used carburetor
cleaner to CARAFULLY clean off the soot and then reinstalled the sensor. At the same time
I poured some injector cleaner into the tank and added Slick 50 Transmission fix to the ATX.

After a month of driving now I am very pleased. No more O2 light. No downshift out of
overdrive, just like before under the same conditions. And, my 3 to 2 downshift problem
seams to have gone away. Gas mileage is backup to 24 with an occasional 27 MPG.
Because I never drove the SHO aggressively (I am an old fart) I cannot tell if acceleration
from is better. I think that cleaning the MAF sensor now allows the SHO to run at best true
mixture giving me full power and stopping unnecessary power down shift requests.
The ATX probably still has a problem but it is not over exercised with excessive power
downshift requests.

Sorry about the length of this input but I though the forum would be interested in my
experience. I will keep the forum updated on any addition mechanical repair experience
I have with the SHO. I appreciate the forum availability.
 

NatedawgV8

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I was having a similar problem while power downshifting from 3rd to 2nd. Many times the tranny would seemingly let go altogheter (like pushing in the clutch in an MTX) and the engine would hit the redline before slipping into 2nd.

Also, if I had too much juice on it when going from 1st to 2nd, it would also slip. Interestingly, if I manually shifted into 2nd, it didn't have any problem at all.

I was getting a 147 code (TPS problem) so I replaced it this weekend. Knock on wood, but the thing now seems to be shifting nearly as good as it was before this problem arose (20k miles ago @ 85k).

I'm not very familar with the workings of the ATX, but I'm thinking that the transmission must rely partly on information from the TPS when modulating its shifts. Now that it knows the 'correct' throttle position, it can apply the correct level of modulation.

I'd appreciate anybody's $0.02 on this.


-Nathan
 

GreenBird

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carb cleaner is abit harsh. Electrical contact cleaner or denatured alcohol is much preferred.

Cleaning the MAF should be the very first thing you do when you have a problem. it's easy, and very cheap.
 

SHOTerror

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This really gives us 1993 owners hope :D Your writing was long but interesting and not boring as most long readings. Thank you for you observation, my '93 was also putting of the CE light and gas millage was crappy I read the codes and it was the MAF sensor issue code, so I cleaned it up with berrymens carb cleaner really good and carefully and every since, restored power, better gas millage, and no CE light :)
 

FOSHO94

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yea, I had a similar problem only worse. I put a new MAF in and everything was magically better.
 

SHOTerror

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I was thinking about what the difference in performance would be with a new MAF, what were your observations between a wornout but clean MAF vs. a new one?
 

masho95

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Silly question but... do you wipe the MAF filaments down after spraying it with electric contact cleaner? or just let it sit? Thanks
 

Bizzy

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masho95:
Silly question but... do you wipe the MAF filaments down after spraying it with electric contact cleaner? or just let it sit? Thanks
I wouldn't touch them with your fingers or anything else. Just let them dry by themselves.
 

shojuan

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masho95:
Silly question but... do you wipe the MAF filaments down after spraying it with electric contact cleaner? or just let it sit? Thanks
NO! Absolutely not! Like Bizzy said, just let it dry naturally. In fact I'd put it somewhere safe where it can dry in peace without the risk of getting knocked down. Those little filaments are very delicate. Don't let that scare you from cleaning the thing, just be careful in the handling is all.
 

GR8SHO

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Got around to surfing SHO fora again (it's been over three years now). Glad to find info here and on SHOTIMES about cleaning the MAF and symptoms related to dirty MAF.
I happen to own one of those Pro-M 77mm from years ago and spent about $350 for a new one at the time. This part has been something I've spent very little time thinking about until I started to experience some minor issues. Never had a CEL come on during this time, but fuel consumption wasn't up to par. Less than 300 miles per tankful. Before you ask, I already replaced the O2 sensors.
Except for a stripped hex screw head, it was easy to remove the MAF pod that has the two all important filaments. I used a non-residue electronics cleaner as was suggested and got the filaments looking brand new again. Hopefully I will get the proper fuel consumption I had before. Then I'll reinstall my LPM and hopefully all will be good again.

cheers

<small>[ April 23, 2003, 09:35 PM: Message edited by: GR8SHO ]</small>
 
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