Cherry Picker to support engine

[silver93sho]

Hey all, I'm pulling my engine in my 93 to fix various issues and change my clutch. I've got it disconnected down to the MM's and subframe but i want to use my cherry picker to support the engine while i am breaking the subframe loose, I've heard people using their exhaust manifolds or the manifold studs to attach the engine to the cherry picker, is this a good idea? Any other thoughts would be great. :thankyou:

 

[jmpSHO2nd]

I have used the exhaust studs and even used tow straps wrapped around the exhaust manifolds themselves to remove an engine.
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I don't think I would use a cherry picker as an engine support though especially if I was going to be under the motor.

 

[silver93sho]

Oh i wont be playing under there once it is on the picker, ill unbolt the subframe from the wheel wells....

 

[Racer X]

Oh i wont be playing under there once it is on the picker, ill unbolt the subframe from the wheel wells....

You'll have to go underneath to unbolt the steering rack.

Better to use a proper support, either purchased or home built.

 

[K-Dawg]

I'd drop the steering rack with the subframe, and in that case, I'd already have it disconnected from the steering shaft.

I've used long bolts in the four holes for the intake support brackets on the heads. Just be aware that you're screwed into aluminum and not iron.

 

[Eric VerValin]

Too add to what K Dawg said... those bolts are great for holding it... but bolt your bolts in at least 4-5 threads, don't use anything short... Pull your subrame, and put some blocks under the motor so half the weight is on the oil pan and you'll be fine.

If you don't have a "load leveler" be prepared to have a few friends over to help ya muscle it into place..

 

[inverse1216]

harbor freight sells a great engine support. its the one i used when i did my clutch. cheap to if you use theyre 20% off coupon

http://www.harborfreight.com/automo...000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html

 

[AREA 91]

I prefer to unbolt the rack (24mm) before touching the sub frame bolts.
I use a bungee chord from the upper firewall down and around the rack.
This way there is no need to remove the steering shaft coupler.
Don't forget the power steering line and clutch cable. They are very easy to over look.

 

[whiteguy3]

^ What Brian said and...

Make your own. No need to spend a lot of money. I made 2 out of a couple pieces of extra 4 by 4 I had lying around. Easy to make with quick measurements. They both held engines on different cars for weeks at a time.

 

[pitaSHO]

If you're pulling the motor just yank it out the top. If everything is disonnected, that is. Watch out for the ABS brake lines on the right, but that's how I did it. If you have a lift, use an engine brace thingymobopper to hold it up and drop the subframe. Otherwise, I'd prop up the hood, or remove it, and pull it from the top.

My .02.

Chris K.

 

[silver93sho]

Thanks guys, the rack is fully disconnected and going with the subframe so no worries there. Hood is off and Ive gone back over the bay a few times getting a few things i missed disconnected. Ive got a buddy helping me wednesday so we'll decide then based on space whether to come up n out or down n out.

 

[kevinspann]

If you're pulling the engine, why drop the subframe?

 

[91PDXmocha]

I'm with Chris , if you already unhooked everything just pull the motor from the top .

 

[jayro]

I would just pull it from the top. I just pulled mine on Saturday and that is what I did. Just take it slow coming out. Watch the front MM, it can come in contact with the radiator pretty easy.

 

[firebat45]

I would just pull it from the top. I just pulled mine on Saturday and that is what I did. Just take it slow coming out. Watch the front MM, it can come in contact with the radiator pretty easy.

Why would you leave the radiator in while pulling the engine?

Every time I pull an engine, I use some 1" ratchet straps wrapped under the intake plenums. Essentially I'm lifting the engine by the little intake manifold bolts, but I'd rather lift by 12 8mm bolts than 4 12mm bolts. Super easy to keep everything balanced and line it all up, too.

While lifting with a cherry picker and crawling under isn't the best idea, you can always throw some jackstands in there. Even if they're an inch away from the subframe, still better than being crushed.

 

[K-Dawg]

Every time I pull an engine, I use some 1" ratchet straps wrapped under the intake plenums. Essentially I'm lifting the engine by the little intake manifold bolts, but I'd rather lift by 12 8mm bolts than 4 12mm bolts. Super easy to keep everything balanced and line it all up, too.

Intake manifolds have been known to break when lifting an engine that way. Not recommended.

 

[SHOtimer]

If you're pulling the motor just yank it out the top. If everything is disonnected, that is. Watch out for the ABS brake lines on the right, but that's how I did it. If you have a lift, use an engine brace thingymobopper to hold it up and drop the subframe. Otherwise, I'd prop up the hood, or remove it, and pull it from the top.

My .02.

Chris K.

That's what I did, with the ATX still connected.

Doug

 

[silver93sho]

Thanks for all the input, got the engine, trans, subframe out yesterday in about an hour. Hoist worked wonderful on the exhaust manifold. My main goal was to change the clutch but there are alot of other things, some little, that i want to replace also( AC lines, P.S. pump) and i honestly just wanted to learn the best way, for me, to pull the motor. I supported the engine/trans with the hoist, dropped the subframe then removed the trans and popped the engine out the top, no issues. The car was in total disrepair when i bought it 2 years ago and figured the clutch, like alot of the parts on the rest of the car, was ready to be replaced, but it was freakin almost brand new. Easily less then 10k miles on it....at least someone else has done some maintenance to her!!

Anyhow, a few weeks and a few more $$'s and ill be settin it all back in. thanks again!

 

[jayro]

Why would you leave the radiator in while pulling the engine?

Pulling it would just be an added step that isnt necessary. Would give you some more room though.

 

[whiteguy3]

Never pulled a radiator for a motor. And never kept the power steering pulley and motor mounts on. The power steering pulley and motor mounts removed gives you all the space you need.

Since the motor mounts are out with the motor reinforce them with 2 or 4 bolts through each one. Apply a dab of loctite on the bolts to keep them stationary. Also, check and make sure your exhaust manifold to y-pipe studs are good or just replace them. When you got a motor out do as much as you can. Those two things alone make great improvements for the future. You'll never have motor mount problems if done right and your y-pipe will always come off easy with some lithium grease/anti-sieze applied to the bolts.