changing the brake fluid

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DavidT

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I guess it was just a matter of time before I posted ANOTHER thread regarding BRAKES :biggrin:
Anyways, I started to bleed them, starting with the rear passenger bleeder. And, of course, problem from the get go. I loosened the 10mm bolt (already attached a clear hose to the bleeder valve), had my wife pump the brakes, and fluid was coming out of the bolt and NOT the hose. I did notice that while loosening the bolt, the entire area the brake line/hose runs to MOVED with the bolt. Not good, I suppose.

Am I doing something wrong? Let me reword that... WHAT am I doing wrong? :corn:
 

SHOZ123

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May need new copper washers. I've never had any luck reusing them.
 

DavidT

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oh boy...





good thing this is the INTERNET.






I'm a ***** :dig:



So assuming I did loosen the banjo bolt, will all be OK just by tightening it back up, or will it leak?
 

Mr Anonymous

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DavidT said:
So assuming I did loosen the banjo bolt, will all be OK just by tightening it back up, or will it leak?
Try it and see. Probably about 50/50.

If it leaks, grab one of the copper washers and go to your local auto parts store to match it up, and buy at least two new ones.
 

DavidT

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Thanks.
Welp, finished it all up, finally.
After the test spin, I notice the brake pedal is not ROCK solid... but it is ok I guess. If I stand on the brake pedal, after it comes to a full depressed stop, it will ever so slightly continue to lower, a bit. Is this normal?
Also, is it normal to feel some pulsating during a noraml slow down/stop? I still feel a bit of pulsate or wobble that I assumed was due to my old rotors that I assumed were warped.
Thanks everyone for your help. As you can tell by my original post in this thread, I could not have done this without you guys, the SHOforum, v8sho.com, and Autozone's online Chiltons (thanks Luigisho :thumb: ).
 

Porkchop

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the puslating sounds like warped rotors.

As for the brake pedal. Did you bleed the system after loosening the bajo bolt? If you didn't that might cause the "soft" pedal your describing.
 

DavidT

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I installed brand new Valuecraft rotors from AZ.
I did bleed the system after loosening the banjo bolt...
 

luigisho

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I'm guessing the pulsating is not the ABS? You replaced all 4 sets of pads and rotors? I wonder if there's not still some air in the lines. How's the fluid level?
 

DavidT

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Luigisho, I only did the fronts. I didn't do anything to the rear, beside bleed the brake fluid.
Paul, how do you "burn in the pads"?
 

Mr. SHO

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The sinking pedal is a bad thing. Could be a number of cuplrits, but most likely would be either excessive air in the system or a leak at one of the calipers. Even with air in the system, the pedal should not just sink down all the way with moderate foot pressure... it would just be "spongy" and stop sinking down once that air is compressed to a certain point.

Make sure everything you loosened (bleeders, banjo fitting, etc.) is tight and have someone press the pedal firmly while you inspect for leaks. It's best to spray all the fittings w/ cleaner first and let it evaporate so you can see if they are still leaking.

If the pedal still isn't firm enough and there are no apparent leaks, you'll need to do a more thorough bleed. I usually try to get at least a cup of fluid out at each caliper before moving on to the next one. And be absolutely certain that you are closing the bleeder screw before your assistant lets the pedal come back up.
 

SHO#7

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I agree with the above. After doing battle with a past 96, it sounds as if there is air in the system. And the pedal dropping out is pointing to a leak of fluid somewhere. Possibly you cut the seal inside the master cylinder during bleeding. Did you pump the brakes to bleed. Or did it with a vaccum bleeder. I cut the damn seal inside my master on the 96. Took me forever to find why I had a sinking pedal.

Also, there is a proper bleed procedure. With the dual diagonal system that we have, you must bleed both sides on the same pump. For example, pump up the system, hold the pedal down, crack the passenger side bleeder until fluid stops flowing, then close that bleeder. Without releasing the pedal, do the same to the drivers side. Close the bleeder when the fluid stops. Do this a few times.

Also, depening on how much air you let into the system, I may recommend that after you get a good pedal, go do some ABS activating stops. Then bleed again.

Good Luck

Mike
 

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