Changing Clutch

[javve]

I'm running into issues getting the drive axles out while changing the clutch. I'm tempted to remove the front struts to replace them. The plastic on the bottom of one of the springs on the drivers side is cracked. They have markings like they were pulled from a JY. I found that the bumper and the passenger panel were replaced and painted, so I now can see the car was hit on the front at some point. The red paint in areas and green over spray behind the panel gave that away.

I noticed that I will not be able to get the tranny out without removing the sub-frame looking at another thread with an auto tranny swap.

Any tips on easiest way of doing the clutch?

I have the rear main seal, a couple other seals for the tranny, and now after going through this and not wanting to have to remove them again, I plan to get the axle seals.

I have a Sachs clutch kit, Sho-Source's clevis repair kit for the slop, and Sho-Nuts fork bushings.

I tried doing a search multiple times but it keeps timing out on me with a white page and an error message.

:thankyou:

 

[jayro]

Yes, you have to drop the subframe to remove the trans and get to the clutch. The nesacary items need to be loose from the spindle so that you can push it out and spin it.....ball joint, tie rod end, swaybar endlink. For the drivers side, you put a prybar between the axle and the trans case and just give it a sharp pop. The axle comes out along with some fluid. Push it back, rotate it out of the way and tie it up. The passanger side is held in by the center bearing that is bolted to the subframe. Remove the 2 bolts and you should be able to push the axle out of the trans. Rotate it and tie it up. Good luck

 

[javve]

Yes, you have to drop the subframe to remove the trans and get to the clutch. The nesacary items need to be loose from the spindle so that you can push it out and spin it.....ball joint, tie rod end, swaybar endlink. For the drivers side, you put a prybar between the axle and the trans case and just give it a sharp pop. The axle comes out along with some fluid. Push it back, rotate it out of the way and tie it up. The passanger side is held in by the center bearing that is bolted to the subframe. Remove the 2 bolts and you should be able to push the axle out of the trans. Rotate it and tie it up. Good luck

Thanks. I'm thinking while I am at it I may want to replace the wheel bearings and just remove the axle completely.

 

[rubydist]

your other alternative is to pull engine and trans out the top. Some guys like one, others like the other. My experience is its about the same amount of work.

 

[javve]

your other alternative is to pull engine and trans out the top. Some guys like one, others like the other. My experience is its about the same amount of work.

I have the means to go out the bottom, so will have to go that route. Not changing the wheel bearings since I want to do a cobra mod later. What is it about these cars that we just want to spend money on them and make them look super hot although we wouldn't get near what we could put into them if it were ever sold...?

I am getting struts though and doing the brakes while I'm at it.

 

[integrity6987]

Hard to put a price on "fun"

 

[javve]

Hard to put a price on "fun"

Good point lol. Going to tackle the clutch on Thursday and will update on how it goes. Will not know everything until after the weekend when I can get the struts and get them put in.

One thing for sure, the car should have better stopping power.

 

[frlewers]

Don't roll it with the axles out of the spindles. I had to move mine out to do a paying job during my clutch R&R and my front wheel bearings separated. :-( Not sure if its a common thing or my bad luck, but it happened.

 

[javve]

Don't roll it with the axles out of the spindles. I had to move mine out to do a paying job during my clutch R&R and my front wheel bearings separated. :-( Not sure if its a common thing or my bad luck, but it happened.

I just left it sit there. Going to have to get a block of wood to support the engine with so I can drop the sub frame. Can't seem to get the tranny out without doing it. Everything is lose and the tranny is free from the motor otherwise with a jack and block of wood supporting the motor.

 

[jayro]

I just left it sit there. Going to have to get a block of wood to support the engine with so I can drop the sub frame. Can't seem to get the tranny out without doing it. Everything is lose and the tranny is free from the motor otherwise with a jack and block of wood supporting the motor.

You can buy or build a support to hold the motor from the top. That is what I have done everytime I have dropped the subframe.

 

[dohcsable]

I still have mine I built by the blueprints from here......that sucker held up an engine for nearly 3 years while I went from having the money but lacking the time to having the time but lacking the money. Great thing to build. Also a good time to do rod bearings, oil pan gasket, subframe bushings, and the recall kits. Makes things much easier in the long run.

 

[javve]

Well I accidentally snapped part of the housing of the tranny trying to work the dang thing out. The part specifically is where the the clutch cable goes through and snaps in place to hold it. I'm wondering if I can jb weld the two parts that broke or if I'm screwed and need to hunt the junk yards to get another tranny and hope that it wasn't abused.

Going to end up dropping the whole sub frame, and found my bushings are in desperate need of being replaced, and from the looks of it, no safety recall but I think my car wasn't from an area that needed it. I'm going to check into it though.

I'm beyond frustrated right now....

 

[kevinspann]

I would think you could find a mobile welder, or a shop you can take it to and have it TIG'd back together. Pics?

Also, if you're interested I've got that case half, if you're willing to take the trans apart to change it.

 

[javve]

I would think you could find a mobile welder, or a shop you can take it to and have it TIG'd back together. Pics?

Also, if you're interested I've got that case half, if you're willing to take the trans apart to change it.

I didn't think any type of weld would work due to the way it's casted. Will get pics later.

The cost of getting that half and getting it here would probably be more than the pull a part if I can find one. Good to know there is something available though.

 

[javve]

 

[pjtoledo]

looks easily weldable


if you want to roll the car around while the front axles are out, just put a big bolt 'n nut thru the bearing. Snug it down to keep the inner races in place and roll away.


Perry

 

[javve]

looks easily weldable


if you want to roll the car around while the front axles are out, just put a big bolt 'n nut thru the bearing. Snug it down to keep the inner races in place and roll away.


Perry

I will have to see what is cheaper, a JY tranny or getting this one welded. I do know this tranny works though.

 

[BlooDSMeaR]

This will help you with your clutch r&r. http://www.harborfreight.com/1000-lb-capacity-engine-support-bar-96524.html
It works as it should.
Best thing about it is once you buy it, you own it. I have used mine a couple of times now.

Here is a coupon code for 20% percent off : 16355144

As for the break on the trans, a good welding shop can easy fix it for a nominal fee.

 

[javve]

Ugh!!! The Timken 3909 is not the right rear main seal for the SHO. Summit Racing did has a strange filter setup. I did not realize Ford V6 did not = Yamaha V6, and did not see Yamaha V6 until I did some digging. It's a bummer it wasn't caught when I was making a parts list post. Unless they can send me the right one, That's $19 that I could have used on the right one

It also delays me dagnabit! The seals they do show for the SHO are PTFE and Silicone.

Off to find the correct one....

 

[kevinspann]

Nope. I'm not sure if Timkin makes a rear main seal for our cars. Felpro and dnj are two that do. They come with a carrier gasket as well (that plate on the back of the motor). Summit is usually pretty good at taking care of people, I think you'll be okay on that front.