changed out alternator

[avocadoman1]

the bearing obviously was going out.
very loud whining.
when i took to test at Auto Zone, the thing heated up to hot to touch. although it tested out fine.
so i ordered a new one, took a day to get, noted the size of the pully as recommended here. it was an exact match with the same coding etched into it.

the removal and installation...all i can say is what a PITA.
thanks to all for old threads that spelled it out.
i did it without dropping the sub-frame as many have suggested.
the most difficult part was the upper bolt.
my hands (even with gloves) look like swiss cheese, and they're sore as all get out.
anywho...i took off the tie rod (as suggested), squeezed it thru the small opening.
now ready to rock and roll.
works great (knock on wood!) right now, and no whining sound anymore.

 

[SHOZ123]

Indeed a PITA. I am in the process of replacing mine and upgraded to a 4 ga wire from the alt to the mega fuse.

 

[avocadoman1]

and i'm guessing that you'll drop the sub frame, right?
i probably should have removed the fuel lines up top. i was just afraid that i'd screw it up somehow so instead i went thru much pain & suffering by squeezing both hands into areas much too tight.
i gotta believe that the dealer charges $300 for the part and another $3-400 in labor.

 

[SHOZ123]

Yes I drop the subframe, though some insist it isn't necessary. Sure makes things easier and with an air wrench takes no time at all. The fuel lines are disconnected and the cowling off too.

I also cut the studs off of the mounting bolts last time. The top bolt is where a straight ratcheting box end wrench would work best. It the wrench has an angle on it it is leaning too far back and in the way of other stuff. Or if the ratcheting wrench could be flipped over it would be even better. Mine don't work like that.

 

[2 4shofast]

I think mine is going out too....Bob, did yours sound like a mild torque converter whine?

 

[avocadoman1]

it was very noisy with a whine sound.
i used a $10 stethascope to identify the location of the noise.
and, as i said, i had it tested after i removed it.
it put out amps but got very, very hot to the touch.
eventually it freezes up, you snap the belt and you're stuck on the highway.

 

[MotorMouth]

I'm pretty sure mine is on it's way out as well. Just got done doing spark plugs too, oh well, I love maintance

 

[Mr. SHO]

Instead of cutting the studs off completely, I simply shaved the one on the upper bolt down to 1/4". This allows plenty of thread for the nut that holds the alternator wire bracket, but also allows a common (shallow) 6 point socket to work on the bolt itself, rather than messing around with a box of open-end wrench.

So far so good with the Ford reman alternator.

 

[avocadoman1]

i followed your lead and did the same thing.
although tightening that nut took the longest time.

 

[Mr Anonymous]

A set of the Craftsman reversible ratchet wrenches can be your best friend replacing a V8 SHO alternator (actually, they come in really handy all over the SHO).

 

[avocadoman1]

A set of the Craftsman reversible ratchet wrenches can be your best friend replacing a V8 SHO alternator (actually, they come in really handy all over the SHO).

i did purchase the 15mm pivoting ratchet wrench for the upper bolt (some of the threads said it was 14mm, but all three of my big bolts were 15mm). think it was about $10.
but didn't buy a 10mm one for the little nut. hence, i really struggled with that one.
i've now decided that if i do the job again (please Lord, spare me), i will remove the upper fuel lines to provide for more hand room & purchase a 10mm ratchet wrench.