Car wont crank NOT starter help!!!

[Snake2715]

Ok, 1993 Auto <70k. Runs perfect no codes...

Last Tuesday took it to the car wash and stopped for gas....

It wouldnt crank...

Had it towed pulled starter bought new starter after the old one was supposedly dead... I never watched them test it.

Had time yesterday to put it in and same symptoms...

Turn key, all power just fine and click . No crank...No grind nothing.

ITS ONLY A SINGLE CLICK PER TRY!!


What am I looking for fusable links? Seleniods?

There is power to the starter and to the fuse box near the firewall passenger side... There is also power at the alternator so the power is there.

I pulled the new starter and verified it works at Autozone. Its a bosch.

The battery reads 12.1 volts right now. The dash lights seem to work. The car does go to neutral and park ok.

I verified the motor isnt seized and the flywheel spins when I turn the crank.

The code for KOEO are 111....

Any ideas at all anybody. I really dont have the money for a garage charge right now... ANY help at all is worth a try.

Thanks

 

[Ishodu]

Battery voltage is a bit low it should be about 12.6. Also try cleaning up the battery cable connections at the battery and at the starter.

 

[Snake2715]

The connections are really good. The battery was somewhat low because I have been clicking like mad to get this to crank. The battery is only 3 months or so old. I will charge it but it doesnt even try to crank at ALL.

 

[SHOSEE]

I had the same problem with mine, the positive battery cable when i jiggled it then it would start. It goes all the way under the front to the Starter Relay I think, but somewhere in between was the problem for me. Try it.

 

[SHO Continental]

might want to check the wire that goes from the ignition to the silenoid on the starter.. might have been pulled out..

 

[Venom SHO s7]

yeah, wiggle the batt post to make sure theyre making full contact, also check the solenoid thats iirc is mounted on the left fender, my car had the similar problems and the solenoid was the problem

 

[SHOZ123]

If you hear the click that is the solenoid pulling in. It is located on the starter on the '93. Your positive battery cable is bad.

 

[smak]

i had the rapid clicking and it was my + batt cable.

i just unbolted the connection, went back an inch and a half or so and cut the old corroded (really badly) cable off, use a battery terminal cleaner to freshen up the new end and re-fix the connector and voila, good as new.

dont know if my cables were stock or already replaced at one time so be able to do that little mod.. saved me from having to buy and install new cables though.

 

[Snake2715]

I dont think its the positive cable. I am getting 12v's at the + terminal on the starter. The + cable is NOT corroded.

However I am only getting 3 volts or so at the seleniod or "switch" wire @ the starter once the key is turned to the start position.

The starter is clicking ONCE per key turn. I actually pulled the new starter and watched it the gear is extending but not spinning...

Again this starter was just shown to be good.

Any ideas?

 

[Racer X]

Again, check your + cable. Wiggle test it. Also, measure the voltage drop across your batttery as you try to start it. 12.1v is a bit low.

 

[Snake2715]

I am picking up a battery tonight to eliminate that problem....

I am going to run a ground and positive cable from the new battery directly to the starter. I really dont think its teh positive cable. The cable looks great and shows full current all the way through.

However I reread my posts and some replies. I need to clarify something..

I am getting only ONE CLICK per ignition turn. NOT multiple clicks. I did notice that I worded it to where someone could have easily misunderstood me.

So that may be why some of you had suggested the + cable....

 

[ohfosho]

how about taking the new starter somewhere else for a quick test? they are free tests right? canadian tire does it free here (in ontario, canada)...im sure there are other major parts stores that do it too.

 

[40BelowSummer]

To test the cables just use jumper cables. Straight from the + post on the battery (or even another car) to the + connection on the starter. You can do it for the ground as well. This will ensure you are getting power to the starter.

Make sure the IGN wire is attached to the solenoid. It sounds like it is though. You can probably try "jumping" that connection. Make a jumper wire and, with the key on, cross the IGN spade connector on the solenoid to the + connection on the starter. This will ensure that the solenoid is getting the proper voltage to spool the starter.

If you follow these steps and the starter is good like Autozone determined, then the car should at least crank over.

 

[DHMag]

or use an ohm meter to check resistance in the cables. also, the secondary (smaller) wires attached to the terminal ends are very critical for engine operation. without them, youre dead in the water.

a single click can be the cable/wire has enough contact to switch but upon load, the arc will make it jump and lose connection.

its funny, you dont have money for a garage charge, but you can afford to refuse to try a simple cable check which is free, and have the money to buy another battery.

 

[SHOZ123]

Do a volt drop test on the positive cable between the battery to starter to actually test the cable under load. Put the meter on millivolts DC and connect one end of the meter to each end of the cable. Then crank the motor. The higher the reading the more resistance. Anything over 200 mV is bad.

I suppose it could be the contacts that the solenoid pulls in.

 

[bulldogs3d]

I Have Had That Problem With My Sho And My F150 It Is Always My Positive Battery Terminal I Changed It Scrap The Wire Down Real Good And It Starts Right Up. After This Happened So Many Times I Bought That Red Corrosion Spray It Works Great. Your Symptoms Sound Like Mine And For $2.50 It's A Good Place To Start

 

[Snake2715]

or use an ohm meter to check resistance in the cables. also, the secondary (smaller) wires attached to the terminal ends are very critical for engine operation. without them, youre dead in the water.

a single click can be the cable/wire has enough contact to switch but upon load, the arc will make it jump and lose connection.

its funny, you dont have money for a garage charge, but you can afford to refuse to try a simple cable check which is free, and have the money to buy another battery.

I picked up a new battery from a friend. Also I did pick up new positive batery cables and a ground cable. I plan on running the new battery right to the starter with the new cable directly...

If it cranks over then its either the battery or the cables. I can eliminate one or the other quite easy...


Since it is giving one click then the ignition switch must be good right? I mean if it wasnt doing its job the starter wouldnt click at all..