Car lunging when cold.

[nlspears]

This is a 1997.

 

[SHOZ123]

I would guess you have a bad CCRM. There is a relay in there that sends power out the black and yellow wire to the A/C clutch.

 

[nlspears]

I would guess you have a bad CCRM. There is a relay in there that sends power out the black and yellow wire to the A/C clutch.

Okay Guys,

Let's forget about the A/C theory. After checking again, SHOZ123 is right. It the ac clutch is cycling when I have the heat on. I turned it off and it stopped. This is my new observation, now that the clicking has stopped. When the engine lunges I hear a loud hissing sound at the same time it jerks. It is coming from around the fuel pressure valve and injector 5 area. Could this? Remember that this symptoms goes away once the car is driven a couple of miles.

 

[SHOZ123]

Check the vacuum hose going to the FPR.

 

[Mr. SHO]

And don't just check it visually. There have been a few instances in which people have looked at the hose and it looked fine, but it actually was cracked and leaked under vacuum. Pull it off, plug one end, and check it with a vacuum pump & gauge. Better still, just replace it regardless.

 

[nlspears]

Okay, if this is the cause of the jerking, would it go away once the car is driven several miles?

 

[stephen newberg]

Might be the crack is pretty thin, and heat expansion as the engine compartment warms up mainly seals it. Since this seems like it came on with your vehicle as the weather started to cool, I think there is a decent chance of this being the case.

pax, smn

 

[nlspears]

Well, guys. I think this is my torque converter going bad. When I shift into drive or reverse the car just stalls now. I have to give it gas to stop it from stalling, or let the car warm up. The wierd thing is it doesn't stall if I shift it to 1 or 2 on the gear selector.

 

[Sagabu]

Vacum leak.

 

[Evil5oh]

Hey guys. I had the EXACT same symptoms. The car would fight the brakes at a stoplight, try to lunge forward when putting it into drive, and "sailing" on the hwy -- where I would let off the gas, and the motor just kept being fed fuel, and would just keep going, barely losing speed.

Well yesterday I had the cams welded, and replaced the 4 rear coil packs. All symptoms listed above are gone. No more lunging when being put into gear, no more fighting the brakes, and definatelty no more "sailing" on the hwy. now when I let off the gas at hwy speed, it is like ever other car where the fuel is shut off, and the motor slows the car -- which is actually quite nice, because with traffic in Phoenix I hate riding the brakes all the time. When you tip into the throttle to come back up to speed, the TC smoothly engages again, and it is just fine.

Aside from the cams being welded, we changed out the coil packs, plugs, and the pcv valve. There was alot of sludge(for lack of a better term) in the intake(s), and that was all cleaned out as well so the secondaries would open again.

I would really like to know what we did -- since we only changed a couple parts. The only thing I can think of besides pcv would be unhooking all the connectors, and reconnecting them, maybe on one of them getting a better connection then there was before.

 

[SHOZ123]

Sounds like your vacuum leak got fixed with the disassembly/reassembly.

 

[LJRuddy]

I have a friend with a 98 SHO and he has similar symptoms as everyone else here. All he does is he sprays electronic contact lubricant onto teh IAB and MAF sensor and the problem goes away instantly. Takes care of the sailing, high idle, and lunging...

As for the TPS fix, i am not too sure but i believe that there is a plug or something on the throttle body that shorts out or something like that. It is an 80 dollar replacement from the dealership. I am remembering this from several months back so my TPS fix explanation is NOT exact but it had something to do with a connector that goes bad. Spray electric contact **** on the sensors on the T/B and the problems should go away for a few weeks... Cheap fix if you dont have 80+ bucks on hand.