Car darts all over the place.

[AKghandi]

92 MTX

Recently I replaced the struts and tension rods bushings front and back

but the car still wanders, especially under accel or deccel

the car may need an Alignement still but it feels like something isnt right.

could control arm bushings cause this? they were worn but still very stiff.

I did notice a very small amount of play in my tie rod ends, not much really. maybe 1/16"

could subframe bushings or motor mounts be doing this?

Its really really frustrating.

 

[AKghandi]

 

[AKghandi]

i also get some fairly intense vibrations when i let off the gas.

 

[luigisho]

I would get an alignment and get a good look and tug on things while it's up in the air. I would also check tire wear and tread and wheel balance. Without experiencing the car it's hard to pinpoint stuff over the internet. Replacing the engine mounts is not a bad idea but some are not available and you would need rebuilt/reinforced mounts.

 

[rubydist]

most likely ball joints or tie rod ends or a combination of those - 1/16" play in the tie rod end is enough to make the car steer in the direction it wants, not the direction you want.

 

[Jim Frye]

Had the same problem with 95 MTX. Would dart hard to the right under acceleration, happened after LCA replacement. Retightened everything, no change. Ended up being the right rear subframe bushing. Replaced all 4 with Dorman Gen3 bushings from Rockauto. Problem solved.

 

[AKghandi]

Thanks guys, looks like im doing motor mounts subframe bushings and tie rod ends.

all of the rubber i have replaced so far has been very soft and weather cracked. im going to guess the subframe bushings and tie rods are combining to cause this.

those aluminum subframe spacers on sho source look pretty appealing

 

[Toolman]

Checked wheel bearings yet?

 

[luigisho]

The aluminum perform a little better but I would keep some dampning rubber on mounts and bushings. It doesn't take much to get noise and vibration to a level that isn't very enjoyable. I would go with the GenIII rear subframe bushings on all 4 subframe bushings for your car. GenIII has different bushings on the front and rear mount holes of the subframe.

 

[SHOdded]

X2 on the Gen3 SF bushings!

 

[rubydist]

the aluminum sf bushings result in a significant increase in nvh. I had them on one of my cars and I didn't like it at all. The Gen3 bushings are the best compromise imho.

 

[AKghandi]

I'm ok with increased NVH I want my front end to be as tight as possible. I may be autoX'n this summer.

But i may look into those gen 3 bushings aswell

anyone have the proper part number?

i got 924012
and 924011.

not sure which ones right

 

[shoray]

Whichever ones are the rears are correct, and there is a little tab we have to file off. I am on the fence about which to get myself when I replace my SFBs as well.

 

[zoomlater]

http://www.shoforum.com/index.php?threads/rear-subframe-bushings.113832/#post-1269545

I bought the 924012 based on the above thread.

 

[AKghandi]

so I placed an order for the 924012's decided while I would like the ALSFB who ever I may sell the car to might not. plus the gen3s were 88 shipped compared to like 140 shipped for the alum's

 

[itwonder]

You'll like the Gen 3 bushings; one of the best improvements I've done to my car. No need for AL unless you are building a track car. Suggest you start soaking bolts with penetrating oil now. Can be reached with a spray straw through holes in the subframe. Rock the nuts gently back and forth, taking your time as they loosen little by little. If you force the issue with an air tool, you will likely break the bolt and be po'ed.

 

[AKghandi]

You'll like the Gen 3 bushings; one of the best improvements I've done to my car. No need for AL unless you are building a track car. Suggest you start soaking bolts with penetrating oil now. Can be reached with a spray straw through holes in the subframe. Rock the nuts gently back and forth, taking your time as they loosen little by little. If you force the issue with an air tool, you will likely break the bolt and be po'ed.

Thankfully this car is nearly 100% rust free. so I shouldn't have too much trouble. I never use air tools

 

[AKghandi]

new subframe bushings are in. problem is mostly gone. I suspect a good alignment will fix the rest of the issues. the front end feel so much better now.

everything went perfect, and as I suspected the rear bushing were nearly gone.. thankfully they were not the original bushings and all the bolts had antiseize. I know they weren't original because one of the 10mm nuts was different.

A word of warning to Everyone who attempts this, remove your DIS or you will crack the rear connector when you do the passenger rear bushing.

 

[AKghandi]

Took the car for a long drive and all I can say is WOW. Its like a whole different car, it rides like a Cadillac now. Now however i can feel just how loose it is in the back..... hopefully new tires will take care of that.

 

[rubydist]

it likely needs control arm and radius rod bushings in the back too...