Cant Figure this Problem Out!!

[layinthesmack31]

Hey guys
Well a few months ago i posted saying that my 94 Auto SHO's RPM's would drop down when i took my foot off the gas. It drops down far enough to to kick the oil light on and now it has gotten to the point where i have to drive with one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake when i go to stop because the rpm's bouncee down so much it tends to stall out. I was told that it might be the vehicle speed sensor and i had a shop change that and now it is just getting worse. I dont know what to do. The only code i through is 332 and i have been getting that code for a long time now and i have changed the dpfe sensor and also cleaned the intake so i dont know if that has anything to do with it. I just want to get this problem taken care of because the car runs great otherwise. I just dont like driving using both feet cause one of these times i am gonna forget one foot is on the gas and hit someone haha. Please all help on this subject is greatly appreciated. Oh and this is kinda off subject but for some reason my keyless entry stopped working, its like it doesnt have any power when i push the buttons and i was wondering what to check on this to get it to work again. thanks guys

Matt

 

[Rick97ls-t]

It seems to me that the ICV would be the culprit
-Rick

 

[SHOtimer]

The IAB (Idle air bypass valve), it controls the idle. I would replace that, then do a search here for that 332 code and you should be good to go.

Doug

 

[NiNeTy Fo SHO]

The IAB (Idle air bypass valve), it controls the idle. I would replace that, then do a search here for that 332 code and you should be good to go.

Doug

I agree 100%. Take the IAB to AZ and they can check it to make sure its bad or not.

For the keyless entry, your remote doesnt work on the keypad on the door? If on the door, I would check your fuses first.

 

[rlw001]

The IAB (Idle air bypass valve), it controls the idle. I would replace that, then do a search here for that 332 code and you should be good to go.

Doug

I believe 332 is EGR valve not opening. It could be a bad EGR valve or possibly a coked intake.

You might be tempted to replace the $70 EGR valve - but this is probably not the problem. The real problem is that the EGR valve feeds into a tube machined into the intake manifold, and, where this tube lets out inside the intake, it is necked down to a cross-section of a few mm's. This gets coked up, blocking off the EGR flow. This coke must be removed.

To do this, the intake manifold must first be removed (see elsewhere). Then remove the throttle body from the manifold (because the throttle butterfly will prevent you from reaching effectively into the intake).

On the manifold, find the port where the EGR valve connects. Nearby is a large hex bolt lieing flush with the manifold surface. This bolt is just an end-cap for the machining work which drilled out the EGR tube in the manifold - remove it (this bolt faces the firewall with the manifold in the car). Following the tube along for 8 or 10 inches, you will see the tube meets a cross-tube, drilled as a separate machining step. One end of this cross-tube is blanked by another, similar hex bolt - remove this (this bolt faces downwards with the manifold in the car). The other end of this tube narrows down, and lets out as two small jets inside the air intake, just inside the throttle body mouth. It is here that the flow will be obstructed by coke deposits.

Now, using something like a 2mm allen wrench, some carb cleaner and an air line, clean these EGR jets in the manifold. While you are at it, clean out the whole of the shaft through to the EGR port in the manifold. When you are happy, replace the hex bolt end-caps, and reassemble.

Probably, the Check Engine light will now be behaving itself.

 

[SHOtimer]

If it is just your remote that doesn't work try replacing the batteries.

Doug

 

[layinthesmack31]

Hey guys
well i forgot to say that i replaced the IAB. It is on the throttle body right? cause that is the sensor i replaced and that was less than a yr ago. What exactly is the ICV? I hope this helps u guys out a little more. I just dont want to take it to a shop cause last time i did i told them that the crank sensor was going bad and i wanted them to change it. They said no it is fine we think it is the coil pack, then that didnt fix it and they said it was the DIS module. NOPE that didnt do it either so i finally said f-it and did the crank sensor myself and what do ya know it fixed the prob. So u can see why i want to take it in to have it looked at. Thanks for the help.

MAtt