Camshaft Removal

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JRA2000TL

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I did a search but didn't find any details on my specific question. I have a good replacement camshaft sitting in my bedroom floor that I want to install on my 90 since the lobe on #4 cyl is pitted/damaged (upper/intake cam) and has a damaged shim. I have practiced removing this stuff at the junkyard but I got stuck on the end where the woodruff key is (that big gear that the timing belt goes over). I rounded off one of the 3 bolts (on the j/y car-not minie) on the gear and could not figure out how to get the cam loose from that end (where that sheild thing is behind the gear). I guess I need to buy a cam seal and install it too. I hear that's a PITA. I'm not doing all 3 seals...car leaks very little oil if any.

I've figured out how to take just about everything else off to get to it. Any special procedure I need to go through so I don't strip out bolts or break anything?
 

tompumped

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The only way I could see rounding off a cam gear bolt is by using the wrong size, or rust. If it happens on your car, go buy a set of craftsman sockets for getting off bolts with rounded heads, they are great to have.
I thought I remembered reading that there is a removal sequence for a camshaft otherwise you risk damaging the shaft, hopefully that isn't the case. There might only be a tightening sequence that you have to follow.
I've never removed a camshaft on these engines, but there is a website online that has a service manual you can download in pdf form that will have the information you need.
 
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JRA2000TL

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I have a Ford factory shop manual that I looked in briefly but I think it addressed removing the whole head-can't remember. I'd go look right now at the book if I could but I'm out of town and the book is in the back seat of the car. I think there is a sequence to removing those journals. On the j/y car, I didn't care and just removed them left to right or something like that. I think they're 10mm bolts. I don't want to screw it up on my car.
 

pitaSHO

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The bolts that hold the cam sprocket to the cam are only torqued to 18ft-lbs., so it should be easy to get off and easy to put on. If the bolt head is rounded, use a stripped head remover tool (NAPA or HF) to get it off. Cams are pretty easy to do. The seal is not hard, either, if you are replacing it when you do the cam. Put the seal on the end of the cam before you put the end cam journal back on. Then you just need to snug it in. The one you're doing (front top, right?) is the easiest one to get to. When you put that last journal cap on don't use too much RTV. There is a channel there that needs to remain free of obstruction or it may blow out the seal from built up pressure.

Have fun. :wave:

Chris K.
 

rubydist

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There is no woodruff key on the cam - the sprockets have those 3 bolts you mentioned and then a dowel pin for orientation.

The manual shows tightening sequence of 1. #5 brg cap (furthest from drive sprocket, closest to the chain), 2. #1 brg, 3. #3, 4. #4, 5. #2. Of the 2 bolts on each cap, they always show the one closest to the spark plug 1st, the one closest to the manifold 2nd. They are tightened in a 2 step process - 1st torque all to 71-106 lb-in, then torque all to 12-16 lb-ft.
 

jsj123

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Also, the book says when you remove the cam, loosen all of the bolts prior to removing any to avoid damage to the cam. The procedure is detaile ok in the valve stem seal writeup on sho-phoenix.

--Stephen
 

Devin

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I over torqued my cam sprocket bolt once and snapped it right off. I don't use a torque wrench for those anymore :)
 

JRA2000TL

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I over torqued my cam sprocket bolt once and snapped it right off. I don't use a torque wrench for those anymore :)

:oogle::oogle: Uhhhh.....I thought this was an easy job. Maybe I should seek help when doing mine. That could be an expensive screw up.
 

Devin

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Yeah, as long as the ones mentioned are those three on the front, I thought I had my wrench set to the right torque but one of the three snapped off with no fuss. Once we got replacements I just got it tight and did the 1/4 turn past.

Maybe with an in. lb wrench it'd work better.
 

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