Cam Seals

[bbeechsho]

As I took the timing pulley off, i noticed some oil around the cam. Is the seal around that easy to pull off. Should I just pry it out of there and put one back in, or is there some big process to get that seal off? Thanks again...

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

Time to buy a few tools you will probably use again...

You need a camshaft seal puller (T78P-3504-N)
to remove the seal(s)

To install new seals you need two tools
Seal Expander (T89P-6256-B) and the Seal Installer (T89P-6256-A)

 

[SHOZ123]

Try some Auto-RX first. Couldn't be easier and it is effective.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

SHOZ123:
Try some Auto-RX first. Couldn't be easier and it is effective.

Dont get me wrong... but you sure do advertise that stuff!

But wouldnt it make leaks worse?? shrug

 

[haydenm315]

I have no leaks and didn't need any special tools to put the cam seals in. I had to loosen up the rear dust shield for the timing belt though. If you can afford the tools I'm not arguing that it makes the job a lot easier.

 

[SHOZ123]

But wouldnt it make leaks worse?? shrug

Why would it make leaks worse? It is a seal conditioner and a carbon remover. I advertise the stuff because I was going to throw out the motor I have because it burned and leaked oil so bad. After two treatments of Auto-RX, the oil consumption went from 500 miles a quart to 1200 miles a quart. No more treatments should be needed for 25,000 miles. No reason to change motors either. Best $50 I ever spent.

 

[Bizzy]

Auto-RX is the schiznit. I was raving about its wonders and what it did for my 95 SE (Vulcan) Reduced oil usage, and mymileage went up from 19mpg highway to just under 24mpg highway. THe AMSoil synthetic put it over 24mpg, but that started to slip as the ************* tranny started to go. Now I look for a very very cheap lower mileage SLO or SHO ATX to throw in that car so I can sell it.

I didn't have any leaks or massive oil consumption on my 94 SHO before or after the Auto-RX treatment. I used/lost 1 QT in 5500 mile.

 

[NotSoSlowSHO]

SHOZ123:

But wouldnt it make leaks worse?? shrug

Why would it make leaks worse? It is a seal conditioner and a carbon remover. I advertise the stuff because I was going to throw out the motor I have because it burned and leaked oil so bad. After two treatments of Auto-RX, the oil consumption went from 500 miles a quart to 1200 miles a quart. No more treatments should be needed for 25,000 miles. No reason to change motors either. Best $50 I ever spent.

Ah... I thought it was a oil system cleaner, period.

I might just have to look into it thumbs_u

 

[projectSHO89]

The camshaft seals for the intakes are easy to replace if you already have the timing belt off. The one behind the cam sensor is a PITA to get access to. If you're already in there, no sense wasting money on an expensive seal conditioner when you can replace the failed seals for that low of cost.

No special tools are needed. Get the 3-pack of seals from Rockauto for about $12.

Steve

 

[SHOZ123]

Actually Auto-RX is a sludge remover primarily. It also happens to condition the seals.

 

[projectSHO89]

Whatever.

If he's already at that point in working on his car, it's insane to spend $50 on a chemical when $12 worth of parts will fix it for a long time, probably the remaining useful life of the car.

Steve

 

[DavidT]

hey, if I can ever get the crank pulley off, I might as well replace my camseals. thumbs_u
Can someone list what all is removed/loosened to change the 2 camshaft seals on the front end?
A step by step procedure would be nice... real nice wink

 

[sdpatt]

There are three camshaft seals as the fourth cam, the forward exhaust cam does not penetrate the head to make room for the alternator. The Fel-Pro TCS45870 seal set from RockAuto.com for $14.34 contains all three seals that are the exact replacement for the OEM seals.

Once you have the camshaft pulleys off (a strap wrench helps a great deal to loosen and retorque the screws), you will need to remove the rear, metal timing belt cover. This will expose the two intake cam seals. You will also need to remove the CID sensor, its mounting ring and the sensor vane (remember its position).

I used a Dremel tool to drill a small hole in the seals to allow the insertion of a small, sheet metal screw. I pulled on this screw with pliers to remove the seals. The seal under the CID sensor is tougher to access due to the strut tower interference.

The Fel-Pro set came with instructions that said to add a film of RTV to the outside diameter of the seal and some lubricant (I used silicone grease) to the inside diameter. They are easily pressed in place with your fingers or the handle of a socket wrench.