Cam Position Sensor(CID)

[ISHOU]

Have noticed a slight hesitation while driving at various speeds. It' very sporadic. No CE light but did a KOEO test and got a 214 which points to the cam position sensor. I'm not having a starting problem so is it possible that the sensor is giving this kind of a symptom?

 

[sdpatt]

The CID sensor can cause a stumbling while driving. The EEC only uses the signal from the CID sensor when the engine starts cranking, but the signal is monitored while the engine is operating. If you have found a 214 code, it is either indicating the CID sensor or a fault in the DIS module or its connections.

Check the ground path to the DIS module (any powdercoating on the intake?) and the connectors attached to it. If no problems found there, it may very well be the Wells F134 CID sensor available from AutoZone for $29.99. It is mounted with two 5.5mm (7/32") screws and is quite simple to replace (compared to the CPS).

 

[SHOck]

Yes, this is possible. Clear your codes, then check them again after the next time your car hesitates. If you get the 214 again, it is indeed a CID going bad.

 

[Bluto]

ISHOU,
I get the same thing.
I'll be cruising along and there is a quick cut of power. I often think "hey what was that...all gauges are fine , no CEL....must be in my head, or I hit a bump."

Please post to let us know the turn out.

 

[Bizzy]

funny this thread is here, cause mine is doing the exact same thing. I've gotten 214 2-3 times over the last 2 months, but it never comes right back. But I'm having hard starting (long crank times) and the occasional loss of power while cruising. but it usually comes right back. It almost feels like for a second that the timing gets ********, then comes back.

Autozone here I come.

 

[sdpatt]

netviper:
funny this thread is here, cause mine is doing the exact same thing. I've gotten 214 2-3 times over the last 2 months, but it never comes right back. But I'm having hard starting (long crank times) and the occasional loss of power while cruising. but it usually comes right back. It almost feels like for a second that the timing gets ********, then comes back.

Autozone here I come.

With multiple instances of the 214 code, you would be ahead to check out the DIS module ground path and connectors. If no problems found there, a new CID sensor is in store. The power changes could be due to a misreading TPS or MAF. With no other codes, you have more analysis to perform.

 

[rangerj]

ISHOU,

With so many folks experiencing the same problem I'll post the electrical tests for the DIS (distributorless ignition) EEC-IV.

Check all grounds for good clean tight connections. The DIS module is mounted to the intake manifold crossover tube on the passenger side of the car.

The four small screws that hold it to the manifold are its ground, and the two bolts that hold the crossover tube to the heads also are "grounds".

Anti-sieze compound or "Kopper Shield applied to the threads help, and improve the electrical contact. Remove paint from the manifold under the bolt heads to insure contact.

Test 1. PIP (or Crankshaft Position Sensor or CKP)(Profile Ignition Pickup) to control unit.

Connect DMM (Digital Multimeter) or LED (Light Emiting Diode) test light between the PIP wire (Dark Blue) and the negative battery terminal.

CRANK ENGINE (Have the mechanics "lovely assistant do the "cranking"

You should get 3 to 7 volts or the LED light blinks. If not, the crank sensor, or the crank sensor power, or ground, or wiring (including the connection) is faulty.

Test 2. SPOUT (Spark output of the Electronic Control Unit) to DIS Module.

PIP signal OK, Connect DMM or LED test light between SPOUT wire (Yellow/Light Green tracer)(tracer=stripe) and negative battery terminal.

CRANK ENGINE (remember the lovely assistant)

Results, 3 to 7 volts or test light blinks. If not, Control Unit or wiring faulty.

Test 3. IDM (Ignition Diagnostic Monitor) to control unit.

Connect DMM or LED test light between the IDM wire (Gray/Orange tracer) and the negative battery terminal.

Crank Engine. (You guessed it)

Results 3 to 7 volts or test light blinks.

If not, DIS module or wiring, or connection, faulty.

Test 4. CID at sensor

Connect test light (LED) between CID CS wire (Dark Green) and negative battery terminal

Crank Engine (Do it again "Honey")

Results, test light blinks.

If not, CID sensor or wiring faulty.

Test 5. COIL POWER (COIL PWR)

Connect LED test light between COIL PWR (VBAT) wire and negative battery terminal

PUT the KEY in the ON POSITION (No don't crank it, Honey, just put the key in the "On" position! Never mind I'll do it. Get me a cold one, please!)

Results, test light on.

If not, COIL PWR wiring faulty.

NOTE ignition ground wire is BK/O (black/orange stripe.

A code does not automatically mean a sensor is bad. It means that the computer is not, or did not, get the signal it is programmed to expect from the sensor.

It could be due to a faulty sensor, but it could also be due to a poor connection, a shorted or open wire, or a poor ground in the circuit. DO THE DIAGNOSTICS.

SDPATT and some others can come to quick conclusions because of their experience, and the knowledge stored in the micro processor they have between their ears. Until you get to that point, DO THE DIAGNOSTICS. doh

Hope this helps, rangerj thumb

 

[Bluto]

Ranger,
Will this help find an intermittent problem?

If it only acts up while driving, and not often, will we get correct info on the test?

Not trying to be a wise ass, but I am curious.

 

[rangerj]

Bluto,

Finding the old intermitent problem is a little more difficult. Here are some possible ways to find the intermittent problem.

In order to recreate the intermittent problen in the wires or connections wiggle the wires while testing.

To recreate the shock of a "bump in the raod" on a sensor tap on the sensor with a screwdriver handle (for example) while conducting the tests of the sensor.

The use of a "known good" sensor as a part of the diagnostic process helps if the above tests prove fruitless.

Finding a splice where the solder has deteriorated, or broken, in the middle of the wiring harness, or the female end of a push-pin connection that has become enlarged, can be the "mother" of intermittent problems.

I wish I could give you a sure-fire method to use to find intermittent problems, but I can't. I do know that simply replacing sensors and other parts will not make the problem go away if the parts and sensors are not defective.

That takes us back to doing continuity test on the wires, checking and cleaning connections, and when applicable finding the splice(s) in the circuit and checking it. If I unwrap the harness to check a splice, I am going to re-solder that splice.

Think back on how many posts you have seen on this forum that read something like; "I replaced this sensor, that sensor, and the other sensor, and I still have the problem"?

Sometimes there is no easy solution. You have to dig in and do the diagnostics. rangerj

 

[ShoBad236]

Would it be possible for someone to post the procedure for replacing the the CID Sensor? I've looked on Shotimes and searched the articles here. All i've found is that it's on the passenger side near the rev limiter? Can i access it from above or under the car? Any help is greatly appreciated, Thank you.

 

[Bluto]

Thanks Ranger.
I didn't mean to make you go to town on a good explaination.

I was just wondering.

I do know of a sure fire way to catch intermittent problems, but I can't afford it now.

Thanks again.

 

[rangerj]

SHOBAD236,

Back by the firewall on the passenger side of the vehicle, approximately at the bottom of the valve cover, is a black disk that is about 2.5 inches in diameter and 3/4 inch thick, with a connector attached to it. That is the CID sensor.

SDPATT has posted pictures of the sensor itself, and pictures of it in its place (numerous times).


It is held in place with a couple of small bolts, I think the head size is 5/32. or 5.5mm. Unplug the sensor and remove the bolts.

It is easier to get at if you remove the engine damper, the thing that looks like a short shock absorber. The power steering resevoir can be set aside to give you a little more clearance.

Remove the hold down screw and set it back on the cowl over the firewall.

This can all be done from up top, leaning over the passenger side fender. rangerj

 

[ShoBad236]

I searched, but must of used the wrong words..

cid 212 214

I didn't find any pictures, but your explanation is excellent. Thank you.

 

[rangerj]

SHOBAD,

This post is probably too late, but if not here is an added word of advice. When removing and replacing the CID sensor, put a towel, or tin, foil or anything else that will catch the little screws if you should drop them. Stuff happens!!! rant rangerj