CAM chain tensioner replacement, what should I know?

[Blank-Disk]

I've ordered the tensioner through fordspecialists.com and am going to do the job soon. It's on the front side of the 3.2 (93 atx). I know how to get to it, as I've done this plugs seals, but what do i do once I get there? Is there enough room to move the old one out and slip teh new one in? I can't find any close up pics of it that really show what I'm working with. Any help will be appreciated.

 

[ShadetreeSHOguy]

well, from what i experienced cleaning mine up, si that you have to remove one of the spockets to get the chain loose to get the tensioner out, be sure yo ufind a way to keep the exhaust cam from moving when you pull one of the cam sprockets off. and getting the 2 bolts back in the sprocket was a small PITA when i put it back together...good luck

 

[jelloslug]

I ended up taking the front exaust cam out to get the tensioner out. I was able to change the rear one without removing any cams though. Make sure you plug the oil return holes in the head, if you dont your sure to drop a bolt into the oil pan. You should also replace the timing chains while you have it apart, they are just as likely to be causing the top end knock as the tensioners are.

 

[Blank-Disk]

when i contacted fordspecialists, the guy said that he'd never heard of anyone ever needing a new chain,a nd that he's never seen a bad one. Hopefully he's right. I really don't want to have to pull any sprockets. I'm thinking I might be able to somehow compress the old one without touchign teh chain, we'll see when i get there. Also, is it necessary to compress the new one?

 

[gosho89]

when i contacted fordspecialists, the guy said that he'd never heard of anyone ever needing a new chain,a nd that he's never seen a bad one. Hopefully he's right. I really don't want to have to pull any sprockets. I'm thinking I might be able to somehow compress the old one without touchign teh chain, we'll see when i get there. Also, is it necessary to compress the new one?

The chains stretch over time which creates extra slack that the tensioner eleminates by push outward on the chain. It is obvouis when you campare a new and old chain (150k+) to each other. Its best to replace them at the same time since new tight ones are still available from your local Ford dealer for around $35. This can eliminate any future knocks caused by the chain slapping on the inside of your valve cover.

If you elect to change the chain I would suggest you refer to the Ford Manual for instruction and illistrasion of the cam gear alignment marks in relationship to the chain.

 

[jelloslug]

You will never get the tensioners out without taking off the sprockets/chain. I have changed tensioners and chains on several engines and I have never found a genuine broken tensioner; only streched out chains and gummed up tensioners. 9 times out of 10 if you clean the gunk out of the inside of the tensioner and replace the chain that will fix any top end noise.

 

[F-22 Raptor SHO]

having just did my front and rear tensioners, I can say this about that:


1: As said before, you wont be able to get the tensioner out without removing the sprockets. When doing so, there is a tool in the rotunda kit designed to keep the cams from moving when the sprocket is off. IF you dont have one of those, then you can use a couple large wrenches to hold the cam steady. There is a spot on the cam that looks like you can grab it with a wrench...put on on each cam and secure the wrenches with a pair of vice grips. You could chance it and not secure the cam at all however, if that cam moves at all, you are screwed.

2: Make sure the cam is aligned such that you can get the sproket bolts out as there is not much clearance in there.

3: You only have to take one sprocket off to manuever the tensioner out.

My tensioner was worn: the foot had two deep ridges in it. If yours is not worn, then it can probably be cleaned out and you will be fine. There were pieces of tensioner in my oil pump screen, so I was not in good shape.


As mentioned before, cover the intake holes and stick a screw driver in the oil return ports on the heads. You dont want to drop anything in the pan.

 

[gosho89]

having just did my front and rear tensioners, I can say this about that:


1: As said before, you wont be able to get the tensioner out without removing the sprockets. When doing so, there is a tool in the rotunda kit designed to keep the cams from moving when the sprocket is off. IF you dont have one of those, then you can use a couple large wrenches to hold the cam steady. There is a spot on the cam that looks like you can grab it with a wrench...put on on each cam and secure the wrenches with a pair of vice grips. You could chance it and not secure the cam at all however, if that cam moves at all, you are screwed.

2: Make sure the cam is aligned such that you can get the sproket bolts out as there is not much clearance in there.

3: You only have to take one sprocket off to manuever the tensioner out.

My tensioner was worn: the foot had two deep ridges in it. If yours is not worn, then it can probably be cleaned out and you will be fine. There were pieces of tensioner in my oil pump screen, so I was not in good shape.


As mentioned before, cover the intake holes and stick a screw driver in the oil return ports on the heads. You dont want to drop anything in the pan.

The worst case senioro I have worked on was were the wear pad had completely seperated from the tensioner. The plastic pieces were all thru out the oiling system pluging the pickup screen which wiped out the mains. Needless to say the bottom end was toast! After interviewing the owner possible things that contributed to this extreme of a failure was 5k oil change intervals and continueing to drive his SHO during a over heat issue.

 

[OSU 4 SHO]

Wow, I just called fordspecialists, and for the pair it is $275. Is there a cheaper price anywhere else??

 

[gosho89]

Wow, I just called fordspecialists, and for the pair it is $275. Is there a cheaper price anywhere else??

Thats about double what I was paying for them last summer from Ford obsulete parts. A few SHO owners may have some stocked away. The trick will be talking them out of them. You may want to look for some good used ones. Usually well maintained sho's (3k oil changes) will have very usuable ones with marginal pad wear.

 

[jelloslug]

I could probably get you a pair for a little less, but not much. They are obsolete parts and are in very limited supply.

 

[SHOtimer]

I have a pair of brand new tensioners and chains that I bought a few months ago that I no longer need....

Doug

 

[SHOPWR]

SHOtimer i too am in need of the tensionors and chains. would you be willing to sell them to me ? thanks.

mike

 

[SHOtimer]

I might be willing to sell in the future, but at this time I am not going to be letting go of them.

Doug

 

[SHOPWR]

why wont you be letting them go yet SHOtimer? i will be doing my 60k on 2/20 and i could REALLY use them especialy the one for the left head i would be paying $ 145 for just one tensionor so i would really like to just go all out and not have to worry about the one on the right head.

 

[SHOtimer]

You have a PM.

Doug