Cable Shifter.

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RonPorter

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Buy an ATX.:3gears:

Doug

Sorry, I want to keep my Man Card.

Bought the '99. Couldn't stand it, and traded it for a '95 MTX after a coupla years. "SHO" and "ATX" don't belong in the same sentence.

But....I'll give a pass to the EcoSHO. MTX wouldn't work that well.
 

SHO_ROLLER_2

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I drove CWhalenSHO's '93 and I'm really having a hard time deciding which I like better.

The rod shifter is smooth but feels floaty.

My cable shifter takes a little ass to get it into gear and feels more direct for some reason.

One one my favorite shifters is in the '99-'04 Mustang GT's and Cobra's. :dribble:

That and the Acura TL-S
 

marSHO

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Thanks Kelvin, I threw it on and zip tied it. It does the trick. I drove the car around with no problems and did a heavy 2-3 shift just to be sure. It will work until SHOsource comes with a fix. Also, I took out the Center Console just to have more room to put it on.

-Sam

I had the same problem with an 89 SHO. Went to a junkyard and got
that piece of plastic from a older Saturn.
 

RonPorter

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I drove CWhalenSHO's '93 and I'm really having a hard time deciding which I like better.

The rod shifter is smooth but feels floaty.

My cable shifter takes a little ass to get it into gear and feels more direct for some reason.

One one my favorite shifters is in the '99-'04 Mustang GT's and Cobra's. :dribble:

That and the Acura TL-S

Any RWD shifter SHOULD feel better!! OTOH (which you young-uns wouldn't remember), the Hurst Competition Plus 4-speed shifter was THE SHIFTER back in the 60s - 70s. My buddy has one in his '68 Z28. Driving it a couple of years ago showed me that it, well, kinda sucks!! Isn't any better than either of the SHO shifters. Now, the Hurst short shifter in his '97 Z28 is VERY sweet.

Yeah, I can't say one is better than the other, they are just different. I found that the rod shifter really wasn't any quicker for power/speed shifts at the strip. And the cable is easier to drive when driving casually. But the rod shifter does transmit engine/tranny vibration, which is a nice "feel" thing.

Kinda the same with a '96 brake upgrade. For non-track folks, it really doesn't offer better braking over even the '89 brakes. But, it does have a nicer pedal feel.
 

moobypets

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it easy just compress the mopar c clip till is really short witha plier then use the hole on the clip into the back off the metal there is a small metal bump there and it will hold i have a spare on in case it break but that it
 

SHO_ROLLER_2

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Any RWD shifter SHOULD feel better!! OTOH (which you young-uns wouldn't remember), the Hurst Competition Plus 4-speed shifter was THE SHIFTER back in the 60s - 70s. My buddy has one in his '68 Z28. Driving it a couple of years ago showed me that it, well, kinda sucks!! Isn't any better than either of the SHO shifters. Now, the Hurst short shifter in his '97 Z28 is VERY sweet.

Yeah, I can't say one is better than the other, they are just different. I found that the rod shifter really wasn't any quicker for power/speed shifts at the strip. And the cable is easier to drive when driving casually. But the rod shifter does transmit engine/tranny vibration, which is a nice "feel" thing.

Kinda the same with a '96 brake upgrade. For non-track folks, it really doesn't offer better braking over even the '89 brakes. But, it does have a nicer pedal feel.

I've driven a Z28 with the Hurst short throw and you're right, that thing is great!

Another one is the Pro 5.0! Just last night I drove 400whp foxbody with one.:dribble:
 

jimtash

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Clean stock 89's, there is just something nice and warm about them. I did not use to feel this way, I always felt a SHO, any SHO, was begging to be modified. But a clean 89, leave it alone IMO. Mine has wheels, but the weaves are in storage. Other than that and a y-pipe (which can also very easily be swapped back to a stocker), it is stock. But once you cut on it, which you have to do for a rod conversion, it can not be returned to stock. Again, just my opinion. But I have the luxury (or curse as it may be) of having other SHO's to modify.

Would you guys hate me if I told you that on top of the rod shifter conversion I replaced the steering wheel with a MOMO, deleted the cruise control, also threw out the brakes for the Baer kit, welded sub-frame connectors to it and put Magnaflow Y-pipe and Borla cat-back on it?
 
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RonPorter

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Would you guys hate me if I told you that on top of the rod shifter conversion I replaced the steering wheel with a MOMO, deleted the cruise control, also threw out the brakes for the Baer kit, welded sub-frame connectors to it and put Magnaflow Y-pipe and Borla cat-back on it?

No.

But, no cruise control?? Man, that's as necessary as cold beer in the fridge!! ;)
 

Toolman

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Would you guys hate me if I told you that on top of the rod shifter conversion I replaced the steering wheel with a MOMO, deleted the cruise control, also threw out the brakes for the Baer kit, welded sub-frame connectors to it and put Magnaflow Y-pipe and Borla cat-back on it?



We wont hate if you give us some pics!
 

ckinney89sho

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i eliminated all that, drilled out the shoulder looking ball then put a bolt with a sleeve over it and locked it down with a washer. works great
 

moobypets

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could you post a picture off that so i can finally have a real understanding off that bolt thing

sorry im a visual i need to see to get it plzzzzzzzzz
 

Ocnaj

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Here is what I did with the '89:

Custom Cable Shifter Bushing

This is the finished product installed in the car:
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I started with these parts that all came from Lowe's. I'm sure you could probably find these in a regular hardware store also.

Nylon Hose Barb Splicer 5/8" - 5/8" (This can be used for 2 repairs, mine is cut already for one repair)
image.php

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Socket Head(Allen Head) Cap Screws 8-32 x 1" & 5/32" x 5/8" Fender Washers
image.php

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What I did was I used an 1/8" drill bit to drill a hole straight down the middle of the ball on the bottom of the shifter. I then tapped it to the right thread size for the allen bolt.

Now the nylon splicer has to be cut to length so it does not protrude out. It should slide snug right over the ball if you have the right size. If you want to you can grind some of the nylon off so that the cable isn't as tight but I left mine alone because it is nice and tight on shifts.

Now you can put the cable back on the shifter by sliding it over the nylon splicer.

Lastly, put the bolt w/ washer in the threaded hole that you made before and tighten.

Finished product again at another angle:
image.php


Now you can break cables instead!

Hope this helps Sam or anyone wanting to solve the bushing problem for good.
 
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moobypets

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ok so this is for under the car as for the white one (cable) it use the mopar clip and then if we can do about the same thing under the car and have one **** off a stiff shift
 

Ocnaj

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ok so this is for under the car as for the white one (cable) it use the mopar clip and then if we can do about the same thing under the car and have one **** off a stiff shift

I actually have a solution to the one under the car too but I haven't taken any pictures of it yet. All I did was I found a nut that fits over the pin where the old bushing would go and then you grind the outside of the nut to fit the cable. Install the washer and pin then you're all set. This is also for the forward/backward cable like the repair above.
 

volodya84

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I just ordered two clips I found remaining at a chrysler dealer in PA (I live in VA), but theyre pretty much discontinued, I got the last two from that specific dealer. Now all thats left is to find a ziptie and buy the car.
 

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