"Burping" the Coolant System - question

[Adam Krichbaum]

Hey all! So i ordered my tune/plugs/3bar/tstat combo from Torrie over at Unleashed yesterday. I am stoked for everything to arrive!

I've been researching everything i need to do, and how to do it, and feel good about it all, but want to make sure i understand the Burping process I have to do after replacing the tstat.

Let me know if this is correct:

1) replace tstat - some loss of coolant will occur, and air is now into the system due to opening the closed system, which is why we are Burping the vehicle

2) check coolant reservoir level and fill to the proper level if needed.

3) place funnel in radiator spout

4) pour coolant into spout, filling so that it fills the funnel up around halfway.

5) before starting vehicle, make sure my climate system is turned off

6) start vehicle and let it idle (or give it some revs to help) until it gets up to temp a couple of times, and causes the system to vent.

7) as vehicle warms up, watch for air bubbles to escape system - will notice the extra fluid in the funnel bubbling

8) when no more bubbles, turn vehicle off

9) plug your funnel so the extra coolant doesnt drop out, and remove it from the radiator.

10) cap radiator

11) start car, and smile

---------------------------------------------

So, is this all correct? Am i missing anything, or any tips or recommendations from more experienced DIYers out there?

Im using 50/50 store brand from autozone to replace. Is that good too?

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[SHOinVa]

That sounds like a pretty good maintenance procedure which I did not follow at all, too be honest I just filled it back up, run the car, an kept checking it, maybe I should check it again. As far as the plugs you don't really need to move anything out of the way as long as the boots come off with the coil packs, I would defiantly have one of those nifty spark plug sockets, assorted extensions, and one of those universal joint things. It took me a few hours but it was easier then I though AS LONG AS EVERYTHING GOES WELL. From everything I have read on this forum I would go get the Ford coolant especially since my cap says "Only use Ford Orange Coolant". Also there is a little valley under what I think is the starter, shove a rag in there while you work on the thermostat, if you drop a tool in there you will spend more time trying to get it out then swapping out the thermostat. Have fun and enjoy, it was a good day to spend outside.
Charlie/

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

Haha ive read others that have just filled it up, but i want to make sure that there is no air in the system and that the car will be running safely! After all, this is my daily driver! Also, just cause it runs fine doesn't mean an air bubble isnt trapped in there waiting to be dislodged.

Thanks for the caution on the plugs. I have experience with that, so not too worried.

Picked up a jug of the orange coolant from my local ford shop today, so should be all set to install once i get everything!

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[SHOdded]

No radiator cap, only cap is the degas bottle cap. So replace "radiator" with "degas bottle" in your steps.

Also, you want the heat running on MAX during this process. This is because the coolant path for climate control is a separate loop from that for the engine. But if you like you can certainly separate out the two. So you have climate control off for 1/2 the time. The other half, run it on MAX heat. Not my fav.

Always check coolant level when engine is cold/at ambient. If you experience issues with heat, there are likely air bubbles still in the system, and/or the coolant is low. Keep "burping" and/or adding coolant till the level holds at/slightly above FULL COLD mark with engine off & at ambient.

A Lisle spill free funnel will be your friend in case the situation turns stubborn. If you can, have the pass side up on a curb or on a jack/jackstand to make the degas bottle the high point in the system (natural path for air to escape).

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

No radiator cap, only cap is the degas bottle cap. So replace "radiator" with "degas bottle" in your steps.

Also, you want the heat running on MAX during this process. This is because the coolant path for climate control is a separate loop from that for the engine. But if you like you can certainly separate out the two. So you have climate control off for 1/2 the time. The other half, run it on MAX heat. Not my fav.

Always check coolant level when engine is cold/at ambient. If you experience issues with heat, there are likely air bubbles still in the system, and/or the coolant is low. Keep "burping" and/or adding coolant till the level holds at/slightly above FULL COLD mark with engine off & at ambient.

A Lisle spill free funnel will be your friend in case the situation turns stubborn. If you can, have the pass side up on a curb or on a jack/jackstand to make the degas bottle the high point in the system (natural path for air to escape).

Is the fluid reservoir the same as the degas bottle?

 

[SHOdded]

Correct.

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

Correct.

So then if I understand you correctly the steps to follow are:

1) Replace Tstat

2) Check fluid in the reservoir (degas bottle), and fill to appropriate level

3) Start car - turn on HEAT and fan to MAX

4) Watch the fluid within the reservoir - bubbles should escape

5) Add fluid to the reservoir if it begins to lower (which I am assuming it will? Since i will have lost some when changing the tstat)

6) Turn vehicle off once no more bubbles are escaping

7) Cap fluid reservoir


So I don't need to use my Lisle No Spill funnel for this job then? Just to aid in pouring it into the reservoir?

 

[SHOdded]

Probably will be easier to use the funnel from the getgo. Would not recommend having the cap off the reservoir for any length of time while the engine is running/not at ambient. Always add coolant ONLY with engine off & at ambient. Having the level up to say 1/4 inch above the FULL COLD mark is not a problem.

Any operations you perform on the degas bottle (adding funnel, removing funnel, adding coolant, etc) are to be done with engine off & at ambient.

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

But if I am keeping the cap on the reservoir, how is the air supposed to escape?

 

[Majestic]

I just let the car run with the cap off and added coolant mix until it stopped taking any more.

 

[SHOdded]

But if I am keeping the cap on the reservoir, how is the air supposed to escape?

I meant to say it is safer with the funnel in place, but u are correct.

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

I meant to say it is safer with the funnel in place, but u are correct.

Gotcha. I will run the car with heat on high, cap off the reservoir (funnel hooked on for ease of pouring), and add fluid till it is filled appropriately.

 

[6500rpm]

170 degree thermostat change is so easy on these cars, even a cave man can do it so don't sweat it. If you work at a steady pace you're going to experience minimal coolant loss. Follow what's been posted above and recheck it and make sure it's topped off after a few thermal cycles and you'll be just fine.

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

170 degree thermostat change is so easy on these cars, even a cave man can do it so don't sweat it. If you work at a steady pace you're going to experience minimal coolant loss. Follow what's been posted above and recheck it and make sure it's topped off after a few thermal cycles and you'll be just fine.

Haha, glad to hear it is so easy. I will be sure to take my time when changing out the tstat. I tend to overthink when it comes to mechanics. Always have, and probably always will. I want to understand what I am doing, and why I am doing it, and want to make sure I do it right.

I realized the method I was originally following was for a conventional coolant system, but it seems that the SHO, like most modern cars, has a pressurized system, and is essentially self-burping, which is why we simply just fill the degas bottle, and let the system take in as much coolant as it needs.

 

[brucelinc]

Nothing wrong with over-thinking and being prepared. I tend to do the same thing. However, this procedure is not nearly as complicated as you might be making it out to be.

I didn't want to have AF dribble all over the engine and onto the floor so I had a small container under the T-stat housing and slowly pulled the housing back so I could catch the coolant as it came out. With the small container, I had to empty it 2 or 3 times into a larger container but by simply pushing the T-stat housing back into the engine, the drips could be stopped while emptying the small container. This procedure is certainly not required but the benefit is that you make no mess and you know exactly how much AF was lost.

In my case, I just jacked up the right front of the car so the degas bottle was higher than the engine, added new coolant to the bottle in the same amount that I had lost, and started it up with the cap removed. I let it run until the new thermostat opened, revved to 2500 RPM for a few seconds and then let it idle. I repeated the rev/idle process a couple of times and shut it off. As soon as it cooled down, the degas bottle was at the same level as before I removed the t-stat. I checked it a couple of times after driving it and it never lowered again.

Others may do it a bit differently but this process worked for me.

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

Nothing wrong with over-thinking and being prepared. I tend to do the same thing. However, this procedure is not nearly as complicated as you might be making it out to be.

I didn't want to have AF dribble all over the engine and onto the floor so I had a small container under the T-stat housing and slowly pulled the housing back so I could catch the coolant as it came out. With the small container, I had to empty it 2 or 3 times into a larger container but by simply pushing the T-stat housing back into the engine, the drips could be stopped while emptying the small container. This procedure is certainly not required but the benefit is that you make no mess and you know exactly how much AF was lost.

In my case, I just jacked up the right front of the car so the degas bottle was higher than the engine, added new coolant to the bottle in the same amount that I had lost, and started it up with the cap removed. I let it run until the new thermostat opened, revved to 2500 RPM for a few seconds and then let it idle. I repeated the rev/idle process a couple of times and shut it off. As soon as it cooled down, the degas bottle was at the same level as before I removed the t-stat. I checked it a couple of times after driving it and it never lowered again.

Others may do it a bit differently but this process worked for me.

Thanks for the fantastic step-by-step to how you did it! Much appreciated! Love this forum already!

 

[Majestic]

If it hasn't been posted already..... keep the original o-ring and don't over tighten the bolts upon reassembly.

 

[Lorenzo Dimas]

Haha ive read others that have just filled it up, but i want to make sure that there is no air in the system and that the car will be running safely! After all, this is my daily driver! Also, just cause it runs fine doesn't mean an air bubble isnt trapped in there waiting to be dislodged.

Thanks for the caution on the plugs. I have experience with that, so not too worried.

Picked up a jug of the orange coolant from my local ford shop today, so should be all set to install once i get everything!

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How much did pick up the orange coolant for?

 

[Adam Krichbaum]

How much did pick up the orange coolant for?

Got it for $14

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