Broken Valve Cover Bolt

[Zap]

While attempting to reinstall my front valve cover, one of the bolts snapped (before the Tq wrench even gave any sign of a click). Needless to say I won't be using that wrench again. Will I even be able to fix the car?

The bolt is broken below the entry point, so no vice grips or anything like that which I have used before. If I have to remove a head, I think it's the end. I just can't take the frustration anymore.

I've never successfully extracted a broken bolt, and I'm supposed to be moving next week. I shouldn't have even tried to do this job now, but the car was misfiring due to oil in the plug wells and cracked wire boots. I guess I was stupid. I seriously need some help here... so any suggestions or help are most appreciated. I'm about at my wits end.

Thanks

 

[yamahaSHO]

These screws don't bottom out, so if you attmept to extract the bolt, it should be easy as it will sit pretty loose in the threads.

Just FYI, don't use a torque wrench on the valve cover bolts. The bolts are shouldered, so tighten them until the shoulder contacts the machined surface on the head (you can feel it), the turn it a slight amount more and you're done.

 

[Minnesho]

Its not a bad tourqe wrench, these bolts just like to break. And don't give up on your car over something so simple. the bolt should easily be extracted, and even if you absolutley had to it wouldnt hurt the car to run it without that one valve cover bolt for a short period until you had more time to spend on it. Trust me, as a mechanic stuff like this is an often occurance. you can't just give up! Take your time drilling making sure its sentered and use an extractor. it will most likely come out.

 

[Zap]

I'm really a novice as far as bolt extraction is concerned. What items do I need to do a proper extraction, sizes if you know them would be great. Is it likely the piece will come out? I guess I can try reinstalling the rest of them if I do get it out, I just wish I knew not to even bother with the torque wrench beforehand and I probably would have been fine. I'm just already stressed from being down to the wire with moving and a whole lot of other things I shouldn't have to be dealing with at the moment.

 

[Minnesho]

The valve cover bolts are not a high torque bolt so i would imagine they would come out easy. It is common for them to break on the SHO. You could try an "easy out" go to the parts store and tell them your situation and they should be able to help you find the right extractors. even the hardware store should have bolt extractors. it would help to bring in another bolt so they know the size you are working with. Like mentioned above the bolts only tighten when the shoulder contacts the valve cover, since its broken off it should easily be extracted. Had the same thing happen on my old 92, but it was on the rear valve cover, a little harder to reach. if you need any more help the guys on the forum here should be able to help you!

 

[Mark in PDX]

Zap-
I have had this happen 2x thanks to air wrenchs and garage mechanics who use them.. It won't hurt to drive with it on the front.. much less chance of oil leak or anything...
Start with a VERY strong small bit and work your way bigger, this will get you to the size you can use the 1/8" easy out to work.. I ended up just drilling it all the way out and using a Helicoil to fix it... I messed up the threads on mine because of how tight it was.. But it really isn't a big deal.. just have a vacuum handy and a magnet to get any shavings from the bolt.. go verrrrryyy slowly... don't rush and do it when you have some time.
Do NOT do this when you are stressed. It can sit. I drove mine (unknownigly but still) for a YEAR with a front valve cover bolt broken.
I might not know yet if I hadn't been doing something else on the car and decided to take the valve covers off..1 thread was still there...
Mark

 

[Frank]

When drilling for the easy out, use a left hand drill bit and it might just bite and pull it out.

Frank Whittle
'95 ATX

 

[Zap]

Thanks for all of the help and support. I was given a tip by a guy at Lowe's earlier today. He was a mechanic for a while and he told me to try just tapping the bolt with a punch in an uneven spot on the broken part. I carefully did this, and it slowly started backing out until I could turn it the rest of the way. I never even had to drill!

Now I can hopefully get some bolts by Tuesday before I have to move - destination Milwaukee, WI. The '95 will be trailered, but the '94 is making the trip too.

 

[dpsutphin]

Just had the exact same thing happen to me a little while ago. Torque wrench never clicked and the bolt broke. Mine was on the back side which is a lot harder to get to.

I will get the old one out tomorrow, after the frustration goes away. I hope I have enough Coors Light for that to happen...lol.

Need to know where to get a replacement bolt. Ford perhaps, or is there anywhere else to get them?

 

[yamahaSHO]

One thing you guys aren't realizing with the torque wrenches (besides the fact many of the clicking type are not accurate) is that they are only the most accurate in the middle of their range. If it is a 150 ft-lbs torque wrench, it'll be most accurate from 25/50 - 125. Anything above and below is not really going to be spot on. For low torque settings, I use a much smaller torque wrench (beam or dial type) that measures inch-lbs.

 

[AREA 91]

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