Broken Motor-mount Bolt

[OmaHahn]

So if you read my other thread I started about my experience with my dealer over my PTU replacement - this leads up to this thread. Dealer called me and said they determined a "failed motormount bolt," occurred and caused damage to the driver side axle as well!

I find this very hard to believe - what a coincidence this happens just not even 2 weeks after getting my car back from them replacing the PTU and new seal on transmission!!

1. Don't they have to remove or loosen motormount bolts to gain access or help with replacing the PTU? The service manager said they had to "loosen the 'cradle,'" in the process of replacing the PTU - and this is why my alignment was off!
2. Another question... any of you that has replaced your PTU, was your alignment out of whack and had to get it realigned?
3. If not, then how many of you have ever had a motor mount bolt break? And would that damage the axle? I was just going down a side street about 40mph slowing down to make a right-hand turn then boom! Violent shaking and a rapid "flopping," sound - obviously the axle flopping around!

UGH!!

 

[SHOdded]

Might have to touch the cradle for the rear turbo, didn't think that was needed for the PTU. Strange.

And of course, most of the FSM for 2o13+ is in pictorial descriptions. Real helpful.

ok, yes, 2012 says a lot of bolts need to be out of the way, so very likely the dealer messed up but has not fessed up.

1. With the vehicle in NEUTRAL, position it on a hoist. For additional information, refer to Section 100-02 .

1. NOTE: Use a steering wheel holding device (such as Hunter® 28-75-1 or equivalent).
   
   Using a suitable holding device, hold the steering wheel in the straight-ahead position.

• 
  
  

1. Remove the 4 retainers and the underbody shield.

• 
  
  

1. Remove the intermediate shaft. For additional information, refer to Section 205-04 .

1. Remove the RH catalytic converter. For additional information, refer to Section 309-00 .

1. NOTE: To maintain the initial driveshaft balance, index-mark the driveshaft ****** and the output ******.
   
   Remove the 4 driveshaft-to-output ****** bolts, then disconnect the driveshaft from the output ******. Position the driveshaft aside.

• 
  
  

1. NOTICE: Do not allow the intermediate shaft to rotate while it is disconnected from the gear or damage to the clockspring may occur. If there is evidence that the intermediate shaft has rotated, the clockspring must be removed and recentered. For additional information, refer to Section 501-20B .
   
   Remove the steering shaft bolt and disconnect the steering column shaft from the steering gear.
   • Discard the bolt.

1. Remove the bolt and disconnect the 2 Electronic Power Assist Steering (EPAS) electrical connectors (1 shown) and the wiring retainer (not shown).

1. Remove the 3 bolts and the RH turbocharger lower bracket.

1. Remove the 3 bolts and the Power Transfer Unit (PTU) support bracket.

1. Position the rear engine roll restrictor aside in the following sequence.
   1. Remove the 2 engine roll restrictor-to-transaxle bolts.
   1. Loosen the engine roll restrictor-to-frame bolt and pivot the roll restrictor downward.

1. Remove the front engine roll restrictor bolt and position the engine roll restrictor aside.

1. Position a jackstand under the rear of the subframe.

1. NOTE: RH shown, LH similar.
   
   Remove the subframe bracket-to-body bolts.

1. NOTE: RH shown, LH similar.
   
   Remove the subframe rear bolts and the subframe brackets.
   • Discard the bolts.

1. Position a jackstand under the front roll restrictor bracket and raise the engine far enough to allow the PTU to be removed.

1. NOTE: Position a drain pan under the vehicle.
   
   Remove the 5 PTU bolts. Pull the PTU outward to separate it from the transaxle. Rotate the output ****** upward, then turn it and remove the PTU from the vehicle.

1. Using a small screwdriver, remove and discard the compression seal.

 

[OmaHahn]

Oh man SHOdded - extremely valuable info, thank you very much!!!

 

[shaker281]

I would bet that this would be the first ever motor mount bolt that simply just broke on a late model SHO! Has this ever occurred before, even on a modded and raced SHO to anyone's knowledge?

What a coincidence it occurred after they were in there performing work that would have required them to remove the very same bolts!

Either they removed the engine mount bolts to gain more clearance and failed to tighten/re-install, or what they are calling "motor mount" bolts are actually the items referenced as "roll restrictor" bolts, and they failed to torque or re-install them.