Braking Issues PLEASE HELP Don't feel safe!

[cubanboi89]

Run away from them. With or without brakes. It'll be safer in the long run.

If you aren't comfortable fixing them for yourself, get a brake shop to look at it. That is what I did on mine when after six bleeding sessions I couldn't get the pedal stiff. Turned out my MC went bad...

LMAO Yea I'd actually rather fix them myself. Much cheaper, just seemed weird I know everything was done right but was just making sure... lol I didn't let them do any labor they was just closer to where I was.

 

[cubanboi89]

Hey now, I worked for them as a flat rate tech for 5+ years. Not all Firestone stores have bad technicians, or shady managers. The only thing they all share in common is they charge too much for labor, and greatly mark up the cheapest parts they can find. ( 2.78 x part price when I worked for them, probably more now).

Point being almost all repair facilities in a given area, get their tech's from the same pool.
Some will be really good, and some should not be allowed to even change oil.

LOL but the Firestones' in Milwaukee where known for putting your lugs on way to tight! And if you couldn't get the lugs off yourself after they touched them you broke one trying!

 

[cubanboi89]

Overall, you had some good advice.

FWIW, the "correct" sequence has been irrelevant since about 1965 with the LF-RR & RF-LR line setup. I always do the rears first, but, in reality, it really doesn't matter.

Vacuum bleeders suck (literally!!), Speed Bleeders are useless except on m/cs and are not a true one-man operation. And they screw up & leak over time.

IMO, a pressure flush with a Motive bleeder is the ONLY way to go!! A true one-man operation, and it does the best, most complete job.

Been using my Motive bleeder for maybe 10 years now. Never have failed to get a hard pedal with the 100+ flushes I've done on mine and other cars.

It is the BEST way to flush the system.

Man my friends Jimmy has low pedal and we bleed the system right today but still no luck. We think the ABS Module either has trapped air or doesn't work anymore! Any ideas on how to check that out?

 

[cubanboi89]

Oh, IMO, if you want to be ****, you can jack up a rear wheel to fully "open" the proportioning valve. In reality, I don't see where it matters.

I have never done that, and still have gotten a good flow from the Motive in the rears (well, except one SHO that had swollen brake lines).

That valve is pretty much useless IMO, and the flow change isn't that great. I guess it was good enough for cutting the flow to rear drum brakes in SLOs, though.

LOL Ha I have never messed with those idt but the back brake do stop harder in the rear. Everytime I have to do an emergency stop because of some idiot driving on the phone the rear end slides out but the left side pulls harder than the right and everything was bleed equally and new in the rear, but if slides out to the left.

 

[cubanboi89]

Thanks SHOmaniac1975. I have actually done it that way but I didn't know that until i went to that hands on garage a couple weeks ago. They pressure bleed them in that order and the pedal felt the same!!! I have the discs in the rear, but I tell you I sure do enjoy the car alot except for when it burns all that gas, lol. I really love it when guys in challengers and chargers, turbo civic etc, come up trying to race me and the SHO just walks them. Haven't raced the Hemi Chargers and challengers though, just the V6's. But like I said the SHO walks them. There is a website I think its called 0to60times.com not quite sure but you can go to that site and if your SHO is stock and you know your times you can see what you can beat and what you can't! Do you have any mods on yours and would you also have any spare parts for sale? If you do msg me becuase I want to get to them before anyone else does. lol Mna I love this car its freakin awesome!

 

[yamahaSHO]

Holy fnck! Learn to multi-quote!

 

[cubanboi89]

Just did thank you very much

 

[MacEwen]

Hi guys,

I'm a little new to the SHO realm here. Last week I did a crank sensor, cam sensor, TPS, water pump, and power steering pump. This week I did the rear (struts, endlinks, soft brake lines, and hard brake lines to the bias proportioning valve in the rear, new pads, new calipers, new parking brake cables.) Adjusted the cable after bleeding rears. I figured I's get more the air out as best I could, and see how it stopped, and felt, before doing the 'sequence'.

I have a fair amount of rust underneath. The two valves on the bias block move freely. However it is not connected to the control arm. That mechanical link or connection is not made to the lower control arm.

2 years ago a 'mechanic' repaired two rear lines (turns out only from front (abs block?) to rear bias / proportioning valve block. From that block to rear brakes he did NOT replace, and I found they were shot and replaced them. He also did new calipers and rotors. Since then right rear audibly dragged and ABS light was on. I didn't take it back since I figured I'd just fix it myself when I got the time.

I did the rears recently, because I could feel they were hanging while driving (sat for a year), and they didn't release much after releasing the parking brake lever when I was done under the hood. and tried to push the car backward. So rears are bled, using anti siphon method (submerged hose in fluid). Parking brake is was auto adjusted correctly, and adjustment nut was run down till almost touching its mating bracket. Parking brake works perfect.

I took it for a test drive. And although having an 'OK' pedal before the drive, the pedal effort was insanely high to get any bite at all! Locking up brakes was certainly impossible, and I can leg press 750, out of shape. I pulled the front wheels, and checked the guide pins. They were smooth and greased. I backed off the pistons, and had an asistant pump pedal until I could see piston extend about a 3/8 inch. I did this both sides. I then bled the fronts, starting with drivers side. Took it for a drive, and it was virtually NO better. It felt like bad brake fade while standing on pedal.

What should I be looking at next??

I put about one pint of new fluid through each caliper, normal bleed direction. I even put teflon tape around the bleeder threads (only). Should I make up a pressure bleeder for pressurizing the master cylinder reservoir, and try that? would that sufficiently bleed the ABS unit too?

could bias valve be the problem? Shoudn't front stop it 'well enough' to lock the fronts? It's terrible. Pedal isn't bottoming out or anything. I degreased rotors/pads too.

front break lines are factory, I think. I only got this car 12k miles ago, and the breaks were never this horrible, until I let it sit for a year. Could it just be friction in the front bores? I'm stumped.

feel free to email me directly too, or PM.

 

[MacEwen]

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