Brakes Grinding

[NorthernSHO]

Well I pulled into Blockbuster this weekend and I applied the brakes and got this horrible grinding noise from my right front wheel. The noise continues when I am just driving but is not as bad as when I apply the brakes. I got out of my car this morning after driving to work and took a look at my right front brake rotor and it is getting gouged very badly from something. Is there a stone or something stuck in my brake pad that is making this noise and causing my rotor to get gouged? Or do I have some other problem? Any help would be great! Thanks.

 

[NJshofear]

How much brake pad do you have left?? b/c it could be the rivets that hold the pad to the Backing plate. Also it would be difficult for something to get stuck in there.

 

[sdpatt]

Time for new rotors as well as the pads that are long gone. I recommend the Performance Friction Carbon Metallic pads with a lifetime replacement warranty from AutoZone for about $35. You will also need new rotor(s) since you waited too long to replace the pads. Get the rotors at the "Zone" too.

 

[NorthernSHO]

Thanks for the responses guys. I'm surprised that it would be my pads but it is possible. My brakes were not making abnormal noises or anything before this weekend. They do vibrate when abused and I know that that is because my rotors were a bit warped but I didn't suspect that my pads were going. Oh well, I wanted to do the 96 brake upgrade anyway. I already have an extra set of pads that came with the car when I bought it...will they work with the 96 upgrade? I know this has been covered many times before but what parts do I need to upgrade a 94 and what are the part #'s? I'm getting my new rear suspension put on, an oil change, and my snow tires taken off so I guess I may as well get this done also. Thanks again!

Brett

 

[underdog1924]

I believe the pads will work with the 96 upgrade. All you need then are the 96 SHO caliper brackets and the 96 SHO rotors. Look in the suspension mod section, there have been many posts lately about it.

 

[stevetatro]

The pads, while they technically will fit, are not the right size for the '96 upgrade. The have a shorter height, and you basically lose the whole reason for adding larger rotors (because the pad isn't as tall as the new rotor is!).

Anyway, you may have an underlying problem with your caliper, especially is your pads aren't too old. Could be a pin that's not sliding properly, causing your caliper to remain partially closed, causing your pads to wear down prematurely, causing the rivets to eat into the rotor (gee, wonder how I know all this!). Make sure when you tear it apart you check and make sure the calipers are free to sqeeze and un-sqeeze (is that a word?).

Also, the PFCM pads from AutoZone are a pretty good deal with their lifetime warranty and all. But, they tend to dust a lot, so wax your rims really good so you can wipe them off when that dust settles on them.

Also (again), the PFCM pads do not come in the proper size for the '96 brake upgrade. If you want the correct pads, just use the stock Ford pads or spend some $$$ and buy Carbotechs (or equivalent).

Also (third time), if you buy new rotors (which it sounds like you should) I wouldn't suggest buying them at AutoZone. Used to seem like a good deal, because they came with a 2-year no-warp guarantee. They unfortunately changed their policy, and now carry just a 3-month warranty. And, at under $25 each, you know they're just POS rotors. I've warped quite a few pair (under warranty!) on my '93.

Good luck. Sorry I rambled.

 

[sdpatt]

The reason I recommended the POS rotors from AutoZone is because I have run them harder, for longer, with no warpage or heat stress cracks that even the expensive "high performance" rotors from the SHO vendors. If you have a big problem with warpage, I have to ask what torque you use when installing the lug nuts since they only take 85-105 lb-ft. Most shops use an air wrench and get an easy 200 lb-ft on many of the ones I remove for other SHO owners. I have even snapped 1/2" drives trying to get some off. Too much lug nut torque will contribute to early warpage. PAt the big bucks for the premium rotors if you want, but you will still have problems with warpage if you don't properly install the lugs.

Scott

 

[DallasSHO]

My friend at AutoZone has a SHO and he says that they used to sell performance brake rotors for our cars. He showed them to me on the list. It's $131 for the set of two. Apperantly he says they do not warp and they run MUCH cooler than normal brakes, so you can't warp them...unless they get like dangerously thin and you brake at 100 mph or something crazy like that. He showed me those on the computer screen, but when he tries to order them, it says the vendor is out of stock. Has been that way for over a year now apperantly. Maybe ask Ford about them? I don't know. I'm gonna' get the stock rotors for mine and the performance brake pads. I'm going to an autocross this weekend and my pads and rotors are way over due for a changing. I'm disabling the anti lock brakes as well, because I've heard some bad things about them. Also, gives you more control over the braking. Know how to disable it by chance? Thanks.

Jason

 

[jcostantino]

There are cryogenically treated rotors... Cryotech or something like that. Supposed to be more uniform molecular distribution which would lead to less stress cracks and warpage.
Those are at least $90 per side.

Or just buy the cheapie discs and warranty them for $30 a side every year.

Jeff

 

[NorthernSHO]

Well thanks for the help everyone! Since I'm Canadian I don't have the option of buying Autozone parts but I'll find some aftermarket rotors and I'll use the pads I have and then use the correct ones the next time around. Do I have to get the caliper brackets from Ford? Thanks again for all of the input and advice!

 

[jcostantino]

The brackets are Ford only but you can probably get them from Ford Parts Network a couple bucks cheaper... I think they are $39 each from FPN.

Could always try a junk yard too.

Jeff

 

[stevetatro]

Scott, I typically warp my rotors and end up replacing them once every 4 months (on average).

I never let a shop "impact" my lugs, I always do it myself with a quality torque wrench, and always torque them down in the "star pattern" to 85lb-ft.

Any other ideas as to what would be causing my warpage?

Thanks.

 

[stevetatro]

Oh, and a friend of mine with a '96 SHO has the same problem. We changed his brakes using AZ rotors and Carbotech pads all around, and 6 months later his rotors were warped.

Again, lugs properly torqued, and his rotors should have plenty of swept area to avoid warpage, don't you think?

Thanks again.

 

[JCU]

On my 96, the front rotors are as smooth as a new rotor and this is with 3years of driving on it. The rear rotors/brakes are a different story. The rotors warp and the pads need replacing every 4months on average.