Brake Woes

[Chesapeake]

Re: Brake Problem

Dear Drivers:

Again I seek the knowledge of the forum members. Searched past posts and have an idea about the problem, but thought I'd post a detailed description (don't want to throw too many parts at the problem).

-Car is an all stock 91+. 128K miles
-Just purchased, but all brake pads looked nearly new when inspected

Problem Description;

Last knight, while driving at highway speed (65-70mph) started noticing a drag on the car. While braking slightly to get into the slow lane, I noticed the pedal response was immediate and that the car shook pretty hard. Steering wheel oscillated right to left (actually, it felt like the whole front end was bucking). Could feel increased drag and put it into 4th because in 5th it was causing the engine to lag. Pulled off the highway to inspect and found that the passenger rear brake, although it was not smoking, had that burnt brake smell -touched the Slicer rim and found it was much hotter than the driver rear. Both fronts were hot but did not smell –both felt about the same temp. Sat there for about 10 minutes wondering if I would need a tow. Decided to see if it had freed up & tried for home (only about 2 miles of back roads). Felt like she freed up, but did much downshifting and tried to stay off the brakes as much as possible.

This happened once before, momentarily, and went away. So quickly that I thought I might have imagined it.

This morning I took the car for a short ride (back roads & highway). It felt OK, pedal worked without bucking, but felt like she may still have a very slight drag holding her back.

All of your comments & past solutions will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[projectSHO89]

See this post from yesterday: http://www.shoforum.com/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=19;t=000505

It's either that or your caliper has frozen. possibly due to corroded slide pins or an internal failure.

Steve

 

[pjtoledo]

Chesapeake:
Re: Brake Problem

Dear Drivers:

Again I seek the knowledge of the forum members. Searched past posts and have an idea about the problem, but thought I'd post a detailed description (don't want to throw too many parts at the problem).

-Car is an all stock 91+. 128K miles
-Just purchased, but all brake pads looked nearly new when inspected

Problem Description;

Last knight, while driving at highway speed (65-70mph) started noticing a drag on the car. While braking slightly to get into the slow lane, I noticed the pedal response was immediate and that the car shook pretty hard. Steering wheel oscillated right to left (actually, it felt like the whole front end was bucking). Could feel increased drag and put it into 4th because in 5th it was causing the engine to lag. Pulled off the highway to inspect and found that the passenger rear brake, although it was not smoking, had that burnt brake smell -touched the Slicer rim and found it was much hotter than the driver rear. Both fronts were hot but did not smell –both felt about the same temp. Sat there for about 10 minutes wondering if I would need a tow. Decided to see if it had freed up & tried for home (only about 2 miles of back roads). Felt like she freed up, but did much downshifting and tried to stay off the brakes as much as possible.

This happened once before, momentarily, and went away. So quickly that I thought I might have imagined it.

This morning I took the car for a short ride (back roads & highway). It felt OK, pedal worked without bucking, but felt like she may still have a very slight drag holding her back.

All of your comments & past solutions will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

You have 2 problems, a warped front rotor, possibly caused by sticking caliper or pins. Thats the source of the steering wheel oscillations. The rear problem may be one or more of several possibilities. Stuck/corroded emergency brake cable, swollen rubber brake hose-they swell shut on the inside and act like a one way valve with fluid being forced to the caliper but not being allowed to return, siezed piston in caliper, siezed slider pins, and don't forget the vacuum booster- they can stay partially on. Siezed, seized, what the heck, never was good at spelling!! Let's see, it was I before E, except after C, unless you are in receipt of seized assets. Either way, I hope this helps.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

<small>[ July 01, 2002, 11:03 PM: Message edited by: pjtoledo ]</small>

 

[ChrisR]

I have this exact same problem, and I'm wondering if it is bad to drive the car this way?

 

[Milo]

Chris, I would say yes it is bad to drive it that way. At best it is wearing out your rotor and pads quite rapidly and it is putting much unneeded strain on the rest of the car. Brake parts are relatively inexpensive if you are comfortable working on them.
Aaron

 

[Chesapeake]

To Chris and others:

I won't be driving the car till this problem is fixed. In reviewing past posts and responses, this is what I'll be doing to fix it.

Replace both rears with;
- Rebuilt loaded calipers
- New rotors
- Rebuilt wheel bearing/hub/ABS sensor assemblies
- Emergency brake cable sections

Worked out a decent price w/ NAPA parts store. Will supply all for about $450.00

I think that this may cover just about any problem w/ the rears. I figure while I'm in there, I may as well replace it all – I love this car & plan to have it for a long time.

I'm not doing the front at this time because this car definitely needs the bigger brakes in the front (which will be done as $ allows). I believe that the immediate problem, although the front was bucking, is in the rear.

If anyone has any suggestions/comments please post. I really appreciate any input from members with similar problem/solutions.

Chesapeake:
Re: Brake Problem

Dear Drivers:

Again I seek the knowledge of the forum members. Searched past posts and have an idea about the problem, but thought I'd post a detailed description (don't want to throw too many parts at the problem).

-Car is an all stock 91+. 128K miles
-Just purchased, but all brake pads looked nearly new when inspected

Problem Description;

Last knight, while driving at highway speed (65-70mph) started noticing a drag on the car. While braking slightly to get into the slow lane, I noticed the pedal response was immediate and that the car shook pretty hard. Steering wheel oscillated right to left (actually, it felt like the whole front end was bucking). Could feel increased drag and put it into 4th because in 5th it was causing the engine to lag. Pulled off the highway to inspect and found that the passenger rear brake, although it was not smoking, had that burnt brake smell -touched the Slicer rim and found it was much hotter than the driver rear. Both fronts were hot but did not smell –both felt about the same temp. Sat there for about 10 minutes wondering if I would need a tow. Decided to see if it had freed up & tried for home (only about 2 miles of back roads). Felt like she freed up, but did much downshifting and tried to stay off the brakes as much as possible.

This happened once before, momentarily, and went away. So quickly that I thought I might have imagined it.

This morning I took the car for a short ride (back roads & highway). It felt OK, pedal worked without bucking, but felt like she may still have a very slight drag holding her back.

All of your comments & past solutions will be appreciated.

Thanks in advance!

 

[ChrisR]

Wow, that is a bit more then I wanted to spend. I really wanted this fixed by saturday, but It looks like I won't be able to.
I wonder if I could get by on just replacing the:
Replace both rears with;
- Rebuilt loaded calipers
- New rotors
- Emergency brake cable sections

Or maybe that wouldn't cut down the price very much?

 

[Gez89SHO]

Is only one rear brake locking up or is it both? If only one, you could only get the parts for one side.
I've just had the right rear cable replaced this year, along with the caliper & hose on the left side. I bought the parts then let my mech. replace them. Side note: the right rear cable is most likely to get stuck since it bends twice in going to the right then back wheel.
The costs were:
New caliper, $130
Right rear cable, $39
Brakeline hose, $30.
Altogether 210, plus the 2 rotors if necessary.

 

[ChrisR]

Gez89SHO, thanks for the price break down.

 

[ChrisR]

OK, I gave a go at fixing this puppy myself. I got some calipers at junkyard for $25 each. Execpt one thing, they don't fit. They were from a 93, and aren't the same size as my 91. At least I got everything put back together, and kinda know how things work down there. But now I need some calipers danm, and I was just trying to save a little money on this project. shoot

 

[mhodzic]

Hi I had the same problem and it tourned out to be an easy solution. There is metal clip holding the rubber brake hose. Those metal clips tend to get rusted and restrict the fluid flow through the brake hose, thus not alowing brake fluid to come back and release the pressure once you let of the break.

 

[ret]

hm, this sounds similar to a problem I am having, too. Would this also cause a somewhat soft brake pedal and the pedal to be slow coming back up after being pressed? If I reach under the pedal with my toe and pull it up tight, it seems to help things out a bit.

Sound like the same issue guys?