Brake upgrade, anyone?

[multishowner]

Good day all,

When my SHO was on the road, the brakes never did seem to clamp enough to trigger the ABS on dry pavement. Any ideas here?

Thanks,
Bill

 

[SHOZ123]

What kind of tires do you have? When was the fluid last flushed? What kind of brake pads and how many miles are on them?

The brakes should easily be able to kick in the ABS with OEM pads and street tires. I could get the ABS to engage yesterday with the ultra sticky race rubber on if i mashed the pedal hard enough.

I would like to add too that with the use of all OEM pads the best, cheapest and easiest upgrade you can do is to bypass the rear proportioning valve with some plugs. Also get rid of the pie tins.

 

[multishowner]

I have Z rated Potenzas I think... Nothing to fancy, but a little wider than the stock stuff... I am not too sure about the brake pads or when they were last bled.. I would imagine any pads should get the ABS to kick in... But then again, I thought the TCC wasn't needed, sooooo... I can get the ABS to somewhat kick in, but only for a brief second if I mash on the binders fast and hard.... But, regardless of how hard I stand on the brake pedal, she only slows, with no ABS intervention...

Do the rear brakes make that little effect on stopping? I am guessing the "pie tins" are the rear disc rotors... They are rather small... I figure wilwood or SSB would have come up with an upgrade kit...

I am going to change out the pad and change the fluid....

Thanks,
Bill

 

[wuzzzer]

Bill, the 'pie tins' are the thin metal pieces that look like pie tins behind the rotors on both the front and rear brakes.

 

[SHOZ123]

I would guess you need new pads and good ones too. And the brakes bled. If you cannot engage the ABS on the SHO with stock brakes something is wrong.

With all stock equipment (Ford pads) on the Gen 3 SHO there is little need for any brake upgrades other than elimination of the rear proportioning valve with plugs.

The pie tin removal will aid in cooling if needed.

 

[multishowner]

Ahh, right... I think it is the pads as well because I could smell them "burning" after I got ******* the binders... Will the premium set from Advance auto or Autozone do the job? Anyone using DOT4 in these systems? I don't think DOT5 is compatible with the DOT3/4 systems... any recommendations would be great! I could use a bit more detail on the rear proportioning valve elimination please!

Thanks all!

 

[SHOZ123]

A good fluid is Valvoline synthetic. The only pads I would recommend is the OEM Ford pads. Great for the car and rotors.

 

[multishowner]

Very good... I will check on those pads and fluid later this week...

What is the proceedure and purpose of the rear proportioning valve elimination?

Thanks!

 

[SHOZ123]

With ABS there is no need for the rear proportioning valve and in fact the newer Taurus comes out without one. It's purpose is to reduce the brake line pressure to the rear brakes to prevent lockups.

But if you eliminate the valve by putting plugs in where the individual valves are then the rear brakes will carry a much larger load. They will get as hot as the fronts on the track which is good.

 

[Vroom]

So what purpose are the "pie tins" supposed to serve? Might as well get rid of them, eh?

 

[Mr Anonymous]

So what purpose are the "pie tins" supposed to serve? Might as well get rid of them, eh?

They actually serve to reduce the amount of water that gets on the brakes when driving in wet conditions.

 

[r0nd3L]

I have same problem with my SHO. Few weeks ago I tried to do panic brake form around 50MPH on dry pavement but no ABS kicked it, car just slowed downed and stopped. I'm not really sure if I'm going to keep the car though, because it has 1) about 1/2 inch of play in steering wheel 2) When I shift from any to any gear (ie. P to D) I need to wait few seconds till I feel that tranny is engaged but if I step on gas earlier the tranny slips. 3) New brakes. 4) new shocks/mounts.

I'm pretty sure that's heck of a lot money to fix all that, so I'm going to either drive it like that or find one with low milage.

Edit: I'll probably keep it, it's too nice not to...

 

[r0nd3L]

I would like to get new rotors and pads for my car as well, but don't know which ones. I'd really prefer ones that don't rust on the edges because I'll be getting different wheels and brakes will be more visible. Maybe you guys would recommend a nice combo?

Also, to change rotors and pads, do I have to mess with brake fluid? I'm thinking of changing rotors + pads myself and then bring it to dealership for fluid flush.

 

[Jim Merriman]

You wanna stop really well? Well do ya? lol

I think the best improvement for the V8SHO happens to be improving the braking system. Since upgrading the to front BAER 13" track brakes, my '96 Gen3 SHO is able to come to a stop faster and safer, and always without fade even with repeated 30 minute track sessions. The car can run into corners faster and deeper than stock, no matter what the pad or fluid I had used. And if you want to then get crazy and upgrade the rotors to grooved or drilled, they're available although I personally don't advocate drilled rotors for anything except maybe BAER's high end Alcon brand, or the StopTech or Brembo calipers.

Sure, changing you fluid every 6 months is manatory for track use, so it's a obvious requirement to change it at least once a year for the street, no matter what the intended application. And you might as well use the good stuff as discussed here.

I hope that helps you, or maybe someone else

 

[SHOZ123]

Bah

I can get the ABS to kick in on hot race rubber with stock parts and the rear proportioning valve plugs.

Can't see how you can get better than that?

 

[Mr. SHO]

What size are the plugs? Brass OK? Just plug and play?

 

[SHOZ123]

The plugs have a goofy metric thread. I would just ask Kirk. I think they want your old ones in exchange.

Take out the OEM valves and insert plugs. Then bleed rear brakes.