Brake problems followup

[JohnW63]

After re-reading the shop manual, I found I was not taking care to get the little tab on the rear brake pads to line up with the slots in the piston. Rotating the piston and properly aligning the slot has helped much of the rear brake noise. I still get some noise but not as often or as bad sounding.

I was going to replace all the pads with AutoZone pads, but I ran into a snag. I got the $6 generic piston tool that looks like a cube and fits on a 3/8 drive shaft. The tool fits, some what but has a tendancy to slip out of the grooves. Is there a better tool ? How much rotating is required to get the piston to retract ? I turned it quite a bit and didn't see much movement at all, if any. Clockwise to retract right ?

JohnW

 

[Jersey Fred]

I got the $6 generic piston tool that looks like a cube and fits on a 3/8 drive shaft. The tool fits, some what but has a tendancy to slip out of the grooves. Is there a better tool ? How much rotating is required to get the piston to retract ? I turned it quite a bit and didn't see much movement at all, if any. Clockwise to retract right ?

I bought that P.O.S. tool also... I would throw it away. A pair of needle nose pliers works better if you insert the tips of the pliers in the slots on the piston and are careful to keep them level as you rotate them around (clockwise).

Piston is not retracting because you need to apply pressure as well as rotate. There is probably a whole section on brakes on shotimes.com but basically most people use a large C-clamp to compress the piston.

 

[stevetatro]

Couple of suggestions.

First, that cube tool is a *************. Take it back. There's a more expensive tool that Napa carries, for Ford rear caliper pistons. It's a little pricey at $18 though. Some people have actually taken the cube tool (or similar) and ground down a couple of the prongs to fit their caliper piston better.

Second, it doesn't take a lot of pushing to turn the caliper piston, especially if you take the master cylinder cap off first. You'd be amazed how much easier it is once you relieve the system's pressure by unscrewing the MC cap!

Good luck! Keep turning...you'll get there :^P

 

[pjtoledo]

stevetatro:
Couple of suggestions.

First, that cube tool is a *************. Take it back. There's a more expensive tool that Napa carries, for Ford rear caliper pistons. It's a little pricey at $18 though. Some people have actually taken the cube tool (or similar) and ground down a couple of the prongs to fit their caliper piston better.

Second, it doesn't take a lot of pushing to turn the caliper piston, especially if you take the master cylinder cap off first. You'd be amazed how much easier it is once you relieve the system's pressure by unscrewing the MC cap!

Good luck! Keep turning...you'll get there :^P

I am one of those "prong grinders" works great now. DO NOT USE C CLAMP ON THE REAR!!!! I usually re-mount the caliper while turning the piston in, makes it easier to handle. Instead of pushing the gunky fluid back into the lines, open the bleeder screw and let the gunk out of the system.

Perry Toledo,Ohio

 

[sdpatt]

Thanks Perry, but I want to point it out a little stronger. Do not try to use a caliper spreader or C-clamp to press in the rear caliper pistons. You WILL damage them if you do. They must be turned in.

 

[Jersey Fred]

sdpatt:
Thanks Perry, but I want to point it out a little stronger. Do not try to use a caliper spreader or C-clamp to press in the rear caliper pistons. You WILL damage them if you do. They must be turned in.

These guys are the experts. I will defer to Scott...

FWIW - under the brake section on Shotimes is the following:

"7. Using a small C clamp, push the piston back into the caliper."

Also:

"Now if you don't want to take the caliper off, there is a tool manufactured by Lisle called a Pusher Screw for Rear Disc Brake Calipers, part #[25470], that can be purchased at any Sears store for approx. $23. This tool attaches to the K-D tool mentioned above, holds the K-D tool in place and applies pressure as you turn the piston in."

In my experience collapsing the piston require both turning and SOME pressure. Sorry if my $.02 appeared as 'just mash the piston with a c-clamp'

 

[clintonk]

I used a mixed approach for the rear pistons. With the calipers on the ground, I alternately turned the pistons with pliers and compressed them with a c-clamp, just a tiny bit each time. Worked nearly effortlessly.

Clinton Knight
'90 White 182K
'95 Green 50K

 

[tomw]

Some times it helps to open the bleeder, so you don't have to push the fluid back through the porportioning valve. It's almost impossible without the tool that pushes and turns the caliper piston. Piston needs to be turned clockwise.

Tom W