Marccus
New Member
How much distance must be applied to the brake pedal before the brakes really grab the rotor?
I have installed new brake pads (front; the rear are OK) , but I still must depress the pedal almost all the way down before I feel the brakes "grab" and they still feel spongy.
Pretty soon I'll have to pull a Fred Flintstone and put my foot through the floor board to stop.
It has been mentioned to me that if all else is OK (brake fluid, rotors, pads), then the master cylinder needs to be replaced.
I have and '89 with 284,000 mi. and original master cylinder. How do I inspect the Master cylinder to determine if it needs to be replaced?
Is there a "rebuild" kit to bring the Master cylinder back up to spec.
I intend to do the following right now and this is the first time I've bled brakes:
1. Drain brake fluid from brake reservoir.
2. Remove existing brake lines.
3. Remove existing brake bleeders.
4. Install new Goodridge SS/Teflon brake lines and Russel speed bleeders.
5. Fill reservior with ATE Blue Racing Brake Fluid.
6. Bleed until new brake fluid (blue color) appears.
I don't have 4 jack stands to keep the car suspended with the wheels off. I'm assuming it is better if I can remove all brake lines at once and drain the entire system of old fluid, then install everything and then bleed each brake. But can I do one brake at a time as described above and still be OK?
How long will it take me and could I screw something up so that I won't have any brakes?!!
I'll just be doing this myself without anyone helping me.
Do I have to do all four brakes, or if I'm short on time can I do just the front first? Will I just up contaminating the system of new brake fluid if I don't do all four at the same time?
Many thanks.
I have installed new brake pads (front; the rear are OK) , but I still must depress the pedal almost all the way down before I feel the brakes "grab" and they still feel spongy.
Pretty soon I'll have to pull a Fred Flintstone and put my foot through the floor board to stop.
It has been mentioned to me that if all else is OK (brake fluid, rotors, pads), then the master cylinder needs to be replaced.
I have and '89 with 284,000 mi. and original master cylinder. How do I inspect the Master cylinder to determine if it needs to be replaced?
Is there a "rebuild" kit to bring the Master cylinder back up to spec.
I intend to do the following right now and this is the first time I've bled brakes:
1. Drain brake fluid from brake reservoir.
2. Remove existing brake lines.
3. Remove existing brake bleeders.
4. Install new Goodridge SS/Teflon brake lines and Russel speed bleeders.
5. Fill reservior with ATE Blue Racing Brake Fluid.
6. Bleed until new brake fluid (blue color) appears.
I don't have 4 jack stands to keep the car suspended with the wheels off. I'm assuming it is better if I can remove all brake lines at once and drain the entire system of old fluid, then install everything and then bleed each brake. But can I do one brake at a time as described above and still be OK?
How long will it take me and could I screw something up so that I won't have any brakes?!!
I'll just be doing this myself without anyone helping me.
Do I have to do all four brakes, or if I'm short on time can I do just the front first? Will I just up contaminating the system of new brake fluid if I don't do all four at the same time?
Many thanks.
