Brake Parts

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1993BlackSHO

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Does anyone know if the Gen2 SLO has the same brake parts as the SHO? Im talking hard lines, bias valve etc. I blew out a hard brake line, and I bent up a SAE line and got the bubble flare adapters. When I went to put in the adapter in the front distribution block going to the rear, it stripped out imediately. Im thinking it might be easier to just pull the parts from the junk yard. It will be easier if they can come from a SHO or a SLO.
 

Eric VerValin

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You realize you can delete that block completely.. its not really necessary. I got rid of it because of how it holds water there.

But to answer your question, they should all be the same, provided they have ABS. IIRC
 

Eric VerValin

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Well.. off the top of my head... they just pass straight thru that block. I was able to get all of the lines made in 1 shot, with the exception of the 1 going to the rear, and that one I "unioned" near the rear of the subframe.

There should be 3 lines on top, and 3 on the bottom... and I thought that there was only 1 line running to the bias valve.. I'll take a look here in a sec when I go to finish mowing the yard... had to take a beer break.. :)
 

beaudeen

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Mornin...just went through the same thing a week ago...the SLO with ABS is identical to the SHO in the hard line dept..remove the air box..abs computer and raise the wiring harness and tie it up out of the way from the abs brake line bundle..the 3 lines on the black plastic distribution block top side were totally rusted out on mine..if you cut them back to the rubber coating, the metal lines are like new under it..that's where I double flared them and put in a union...IIRC the front 2 on the dist block go to the rear prop valve and the front one goes to the pass front caliper..the drivers front goes directly from the abs pump to the caliper..mine was in good shape, so i left it alone...it was rubber coated..I cut the line to the pass front near the master cylinder and double flared it there as it looks like a can of worms to feed a new line through the engine bay..feeding new lines to the rear was a breeze ..lots of room..I probably put a few too many unions in the system, but changing any lines in the future will be a breeze..I pulled an ABS line bundle out of a j/y taurus..wasn't in any better shape than mine, but it gives you a good idea how things come apart and are routed..

25 ft of steel 3/16 brake line.....$25
6 hard lines with bubble flares from napa
$20
1 pack of 10 3/16 unions napa $10
2 packs of 10 3/16 flare nuts $10
1 double flaring tool
(don't cheap out like I did on this tool as mine wasn't holding the line tight and slipped when doing the flaring) $35
2 quarts of Valvoline dot 3 walmart $14

Total ...$114
Put in 2 8 hour days..cursed hundreds of times..cut every knuckle on my hands..dirt in the eyes..not difficult, but really taxes your patience...hope this helps you out and good luck to ya!!!
 

beaudeen

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Hey 1993blacksho..pm me if you need pictures of the ABS brake line bundle..i took a bunch of good clear close ups of the one i removed..
 

Eric VerValin

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Hey man... I wouldn't use so many unions if I were you... Most of those lines can be made in 1 peice with the exception of the 2 going to the rear.

Unions are not the "correct" way at all to do that... they collect water, which will be rust in a year or two.. I did all mine too, and in two years time.. one of them layed against my inner 'doghouse' and its starting to rust.

After I seen a few that were looking rusty, I decided against keeping the "plastic coated / (rust hiding)" lines.


Brakes aren't something to be taken lightly. My truck had a line fail downtown Indy, and let me tell ya I got pretty lucky that day.. I had an open lot I skipped the curb into, and locked up the rear end with my parking brake, all the while trying to downshift to get the thing to stop. It was the weekend before the race, and it was packed everywhere, I'm lucky I didn't **** someone.


Beaudeen... do me a favor, and check your lines every time you change your oil... you live up north so you might wanna keep up on those unions. ;) I cleaned up a few accidents when I was on the FD years ago.. always crappy to know it was something simple that could have been avoided.

Just watch the top side where water or condensation might sit. And don't let the lines touch each other either, that'll also hold water and start the wonderful rusting. :)
 

beaudeen

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I hear ya loud and clear Eric..I didn't want to use so many unions, but it was the best I could do..I live in the country and have done many hard stops just to make sure all is sound..been doing it for a week now and no leaks, so the other day, I sprayed all the unions with undercoating and covered them with green marine grease to keep the water out..fingers crossed
 

Eric VerValin

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I went thru that in my head, and honestly, I was afraid to coat anything just incase there was something still under there. I dunno I gotta check out my RF caliper today anyway.. And now I'm going to be double checking my lines before my next 100 mph trip down the highway.. ;)
 

beaudeen

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If I could figure out how to post a pic on here, you'd be SHOCKED at the condition of the lines going into the front distribution block..the lines were corroded so bad ..down to half of their original diameter..hanging on by the skin of their teeth other than the center line that ruptured..you have to do a yearly rust protection spray up here to survive...
 

Eric VerValin

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It would work if you put a [ right infront of that IMG on the left.. ;)


Well actually not.... on that page, mouse over the pic.. then where it shows up you can "control-C" or right click and copy that link there... and it'll come out like this.. :)

TaurusABSbundle024

"IMG]http://i727.photobucket.com/albums/ww277/beaudeen/TaurusABSbundle024.jpg[/IMG]"
 
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1993BlackSHO

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Update on this one. Went to the junk yard today and found 3 SHO's. 1 was a gen 1 with no ABS so it was out. Second was a gen 2 but was sitting in the mud. Third looked good so started tearing in. All the cars here had no wheels so it was much fun jacking it up to get to the brake lines. Finally got them out and wouldnt you know it that one of them got pinched. But the octopus of lines were good so pulled them. After a little more looking around found a loaded LX with ABS and rear disc. Pulled both lines from that one. And the good thing about a Texas yard, not a spot of rust on any of these parts. And as a bonus, found a good set of hood struts. $30 for all. The SHO should be back on the road tomorrow.
 

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