Brake Pad Replacement

[Little Dragon]

I've heard that there is some sort of "lock" that Ford uses that prevents you from compressing the piston so you can take you're callipers off/replace pads.

Is this true? and how does it work?

(My Z24... simple... use a c-clamp and compress..... done..

my friens VW.... was a pain... some sort of twisting to onlock the piston first in order to free it up to compress it with the clamp)

I know... simple question.... but please answer... I did search first.

 

[AREA 91]

The rear caliper's on the sho need to be turned in clockwise with a special tool. You can buy a "cheepie" tool from any parts store. It looks like a square cube with different spaced out tabs on each side. You just match up the widest ones, and twist r in.

 

[Little Dragon]

So.... the ones on the front are plain jane callipers? just clamp and go?

 

[AREA 91]

Yup!

 

[Shoaz]

Yes, the issue with the rear brakes is to accomodate the parking brake. No such problem on the front, so you can compress the piston in the front like any normal caliper.

 

[riggsme]

Hey Guys, I was attempting to change my rear rotors and pads this afternoon and realized I need the cube. Bought one, and swear the widest setting on it is not right for my piston. I could not keep the cube engaged in the piston and apply any pressure or the cube would slip off. Should it be an easy thing to rotate?
I wonder if my piston is frozen.
I didn't want to bleed any break fluid, but was wondering if loosening the bleeder would give me some help.
I've never bled brakes except as a little guy pumping the break pedal for my dad as he did the real work. Didn't learn anything that way.

Riggsme

 

[SHOtimer]

I have never had anything but bad luck with that cube - it is a piece of crap. I bought a rear disc tool set from Harbor Frieght for $20 and it is smooth sailing. You can also rent this kit from AZ...and have a full refund upon return.

Doug

 

[dstig1]

And it's always a good idea when pushing a caliper piston back in to open the bleed fitting on that caliper and attach a tube from it to a drain bottle/pan. That way you push the old cruddy brake fluid OUT, and not back up the line. Check Master cyl level and fill with fresh fluid.

Front or rear.

 

[jedhead]

I got the piston back in using a c-clamp and channel locks.

Bob

 

[riggsme]

I've been working on the piston with the cube, b/c I had a hard time finding a nearby autozone or any other parts place to loan/rent the disc tool.
The cube just didn't fit, until I introduced the side with the widest nubs to my grinder. After making those two nubs a littler thinner, they fit in the piston channel pretty well.

Now I turn and turn the piston, but it does not go in far enough. I can turn it counter clockwise and back it out, and clockwise does turn it back in some, just doesn't compress it in enough to fit break shoes and rotor in the caliper.
Will loosening the bleeder valve help or do I need a new piston and maybe caliper?
Thanks,
Riggsme

 

[jedhead]

You need to push the piston back in as you turn the piston. I would get a C-Clamp put the side that swivels on the cube. As you turn the clamp, turn the cube with a pair of Channel Locks.

Bob

 

[Bizzy]

You can try to loosen the bleeder up, it should relieve the pressure of the brake fluid. Make sure you bleed the brakes well afterward.

Also keep in mind that if the caliper does not turn back that the rubber brake lines could be collapsed inside. They often look great outside but they will keep the fluid from backing out of the hose which will keep the caliper piston from pushing back into the bore. If you get it to go back in far enough to put the pads in place keep an eye on them for awhile. If they get abnormally hot it's probably time to replace those hoses and it's best to do that before it ruins the caliper.

Just as a side note, I usually use a pair of needle nose vice grips to fit in the slots of the caliper piston. Works really well. If it's tough to turn I put a long flat head screwdriver between the jaws and use it as a turning tool.

 

[jelloslug]

You can try to loosen the bleeder up, it should relieve the pressure of the brake fluid. Make sure you bleed the brakes well afterward.

Also keep in mind that if the caliper does not turn back that the rubber brake lines could be collapsed inside. They often look great outside but they will keep the fluid from backing out of the hose which will keep the caliper piston from pushing back into the bore. If you get it to go back in far enough to put the pads in place keep an eye on them for awhile. If they get abnormally hot it's probably time to replace those hoses and it's best to do that before it ruins the caliper.

Just as a side note, I usually use a pair of needle nose vice grips to fit in the slots of the caliper piston. Works really well. If it's tough to turn I put a long flat head screwdriver between the jaws and use it as a turning tool.

Even the dragon leader get suckered into dragging old posts up from the dead.

 

[Bizzy]

Meh....I saw Bob's reply and thouht I'd add some good info as well. We never have a shortage of brake questions, maybe someone having problems will see it.

 

[jelloslug]

The best info is to just go ahead and "rent" the Autozone disk brake compressor tool when you go to do the back brakes. It had the correct adaptor for the piston and, unlike the cube, it actually works. It even works for the front brakes if you don't have a big clamp.

 

[jedhead]

The best info is to just go ahead and "rent" the Autozone disk brake compressor tool when you go to do the back brakes. It had the correct adaptor for the piston and, unlike the cube, it actually works. It even works for the front brakes if you don't have a big clamp.

I considered keeping the tool when I rented it from Autozone because the deposit was less than the cost for the tool.

Bob

 

[jelloslug]

I considered keeping the tool when I rented it from Autozone because the deposit was less than the cost for the tool.

Bob

They guys at my Autozone told me that you are actually buying the tool and when you bring it back you are getting a refund so if you want to keep it go ahead.

 

[Shoaz]

They guys at my Autozone told me that you are actually buying the tool and when you bring it back you are getting a refund so if you want to keep it go ahead.

Yup. I kept the exhaust cutter I "rented" from them because it worked well and I thought was well worth the deposit cost. They really don't care if you don't bring it back.

The only advice I'd give there is that if you're even remotely considering keeping the "rented" tool make sure they give you a new one.

 

[93rev2sev]

This was originally posted by "little" Dragon...

No doubt the Dragon "leader" can chime in ANYTIME SHE WANTS