viperrt450
SHO Member
is their a way to flush all the brake fluid out of the sytem besides doing it through the calipers? And what fluid should i get?
brake fluid
- Thread starter viperrt450
- Start date
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There's a discussion on this in the regular suspension forum (fluid). As far as flushing, I think you have to go through the caliper bleed screw. Get some Russell Speed Bleeders from Jegs.com. About $20 for 4. This allows you to bleed by yourself. Works by using a spring loaded ball as a check valve.
For fluid, check out the shotimes faq. Go with Dot 3/4, NOT Dot 5! Here's some of the faq.
"The DOT 2 spec is for drum brakes and is obsolete. If you have any DOT 2 in your garage, throw it away! DOT 5 is for silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) should be avoided because it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. STAY AWAY!
That leaves DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. These fluids are compatible with each other and may be interchanged or mixed with no ill effects.
Let's look at some popular brake fluids and their boiling points:
Fluid DRY WET
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392
ATE TYP 200 536 392
Motul Racing 600 585 421
Castrol SRF 590 518
Performance Friction 550 284
Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers.
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street.
ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars.
Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.
Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff!
Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point."
I think the ATE fluid looks pretty good, and only about $11 a liter online. Not sure of the Castrol SRF price, but it looks perfect!
For fluid, check out the shotimes faq. Go with Dot 3/4, NOT Dot 5! Here's some of the faq.
"The DOT 2 spec is for drum brakes and is obsolete. If you have any DOT 2 in your garage, throw it away! DOT 5 is for silicone brake fluid. Silicone brake fluid (DOT 5) should be avoided because it is not compatible with regular brake fluid, it is hard to pour without introducing bubbles and thus results in soft pedal feel, and moisture still gets into your system and will pool in low areas like your calipers and encourage rapid corrosion. STAY AWAY!
That leaves DOT 3 and DOT 4 fluids. These fluids are compatible with each other and may be interchanged or mixed with no ill effects.
Let's look at some popular brake fluids and their boiling points:
Fluid DRY WET
Castrol LMA DOT 3/4 446 311
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 550 290
ATE Super Blue Racing 536 392
ATE TYP 200 536 392
Motul Racing 600 585 421
Castrol SRF 590 518
Performance Friction 550 284
Castrol LMA is very good at rejecting moisture and may be kept in your brake system for a couple years. The LMA stands for "Low Moisture Activity". This is the minimum quality stuff that I would use in my Impala. It comes in plastic containers which do not have a long shelf life. Don't buy lots of this stuff at a time because moisture can make its way through the plastic containers.
Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3 is VERY inexpensive and is popular among racers because of its excellent dry boiling point. It absorbs moisture quickly, but the racers don't care since they change their fluid frequently. Comes in metal cans so it may be stored. I would not use this in my Impala for the street.
ATE Super Blue Racing and ATE TYP 200 are the same brake fluid in two different colors (blue and amber, respectively). BMW recommends this brake fluid for their street cars because it, like Castrol LMA, absorbs moisture very slowly. The advantage over LMA is that ATE has a much better wet boiling point. You can put this stuff in your car and forget about it for a long time. An excellent choice for a weekend track car which also sees regular street duty. Comes in metal cans. This is what I use in all my street cars.
Motul Racing 600 is a very exotic and expensive synthetic fluid with high wet and dry boiling points. I use this exclusively in my race cars. Too expensive for the street and requires frequent changing due to its hygroscopic nature. Sold in plastic bottles. It is not suitable for the street because it absorbs moisture quickly.
Castrol SRF is a hyper-exotic and hyper-expensive brake fluid that is generally used by wealthy Porsche owners at track events. I've seen prices of $78 per liter for this stuff. Sold in metal cans. I can't afford this stuff!
Performance Friction High Performance DOT 3 has a good dry boiling point but a crummy wet boiling point. It comes in metal cans which is good for shelf life and sells for $7.87 per 16 ounce container. If you are even considering this fluid, I would go with the cheaper Ford Heavy Duty DOT 3. In either case, change this fluid frequently due to the poor wet boiling point."
I think the ATE fluid looks pretty good, and only about $11 a liter online. Not sure of the Castrol SRF price, but it looks perfect!
You could always undo the brake lines, but that seems pointless. Simply open the bleeder into a drain pan and let it run. Just keep filling the reservoir up top. It's as easy as that.
As for fluid, the Ford HD fluid is superb. It's now in a Motorcraft label from what I see. It's a DOT 3 fluid, but don't think for a minute that it means that DOT 4 or DOT 5 is better. If it was that easy then there'd be a DOT 6.....
As for fluid, the Ford HD fluid is superb. It's now in a Motorcraft label from what I see. It's a DOT 3 fluid, but don't think for a minute that it means that DOT 4 or DOT 5 is better. If it was that easy then there'd be a DOT 6.....
Dave Ladely
New Member
I used DOT 5 synthetic in my 1970 Ford van for a long long time, put it in not long after it first came out; I had the system flushed not just once, but twice, that is flushed it, then added the synthetic, then flushed it again immediately. I was impressed by the firmer feel and the lack of hydroscopic tendencies. I never had the "pooling" problem or corrosion, but maybe I was just lucky. I dont think synthetic is as ******* rubber parts as non synthetic, according to articles in professional auto trade magazines. At any rate, I had zero problems. But I know for a fact that you cant be too careful flushing out old fluid!
DeaconBlue
SHO Member
Based on the info in the FAQ, my first flush (after the 11.6" front upgrade and Earl's SS lines) was the Castrol LMA. Very nice inexpensive readily available fluid. The last two flushes I have upgraded to the Ate fluid. This stuff is just flat out wonderful and Josh has it for $10 per Liter. One of the best is Castrol SRF, but it's best left for track use only, based on the ultra high cost.
AutoXSHO
SHO Member
Dave,
Are you talking about the DOT 5 silicone fluid or the DOT 5.1 (I believe) NON-silicone fluid?
You do not want to run silicone fluid on the street. There is no performance advantage to it.
John V
Are you talking about the DOT 5 silicone fluid or the DOT 5.1 (I believe) NON-silicone fluid?
You do not want to run silicone fluid on the street. There is no performance advantage to it.
John V
Dave Ladely
New Member
I used Dot 5 silicone in my van, NO problems, lasted a LONG time. Did not absorb mosture or cause corrosion, which I think is caused by moisture, not any fluid. Rubber parts less affected as far as I know, and I did some research.
I do believe it has performance qualities in that it does not absorb water. Like I said, the real problem seems to be the need to flush completely; I flushed twice as I said. I believe Corvettes come stock with Dot 5 synthetic, maybe other sports cars or expensive cars.
I do believe it has performance qualities in that it does not absorb water. Like I said, the real problem seems to be the need to flush completely; I flushed twice as I said. I believe Corvettes come stock with Dot 5 synthetic, maybe other sports cars or expensive cars.
Wildstar
Active Member
Dot 5 silicone fluid is NOT compatible with ABS brakes. The pump will cause it to bubble. I have run DOT 5 in other cars. It is very useful in cars that don't get driven much, due to it not being hygroscopic. It is not to be used in our vehicles. Use a good DOT 3/4 and be happy.
AutoXSHO
SHO Member
Again, Dave, it depends on which DOT 5 you're referring to.
If you're referring to synthetic non silicone DOT5 then that's no problem. It's the silicone stuff you want to stay away from. Besides the fact that it provides no performance improvement, it requires that ALL non-hard parts be replaced because it is incompatible with petroleum based Dot 3/4.
John V
If you're referring to synthetic non silicone DOT5 then that's no problem. It's the silicone stuff you want to stay away from. Besides the fact that it provides no performance improvement, it requires that ALL non-hard parts be replaced because it is incompatible with petroleum based Dot 3/4.
John V
viperrt450
SHO Member
how much fluid do u need anyways to do the job?
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