Brake fluid - converting 2010 to 2013 front brakes

[shaker281]

If I replace my 2010 front brakes with 2013 front brakes must I change from DOT-3 to DOT-4 brake fluid?

Since the rears, master cylinder and antilock are staying the same, I would assume I can stay with DOT-3 and KISS. I do not necessarily want to try and flush the entire system, though I will bleed the fronts and probably the rears, as I will be doing both front (2013) and rears (2010 severe duty Motorcraft).

Thoughts?

Bonus question: Since ordering calipers and brackets online requires returning the core I see that O'Reilly's has Brakebest brand "bracketed calipers with hardware" for $66.99 as a special order item.

Do you think they will notice that the core is not the same as the 2013 (or even care)?
Anyone have any experience with Brakebest calipers? I assume they are reman MC items. Correct?

 

[rubydist]

I don't know the answers to your first question, but I can tell you that the parts boys will not be able to tell that you are not returning exactly the same part, so long as you don't have them with you so they see them side by side.

I would assume that Brakebest is cheap Chinese stuff.

 

[shaker281]

Thanks.

Got a better deal on Cardone calipers w/brackets and hardware from Rock Auto, so went with that. Hopefully I won't have a problem with the core return through Rock Auto/Cardone. I suppose if they do not want the 2010 cores/brackets they can send them back to me.

 

[RonPorter]

Any time you do brake work, the fluid should be flushed, just to keep everything fresh, and get rid of any residual moisture.

DOT4 is pretty much the standard fluid today, only the very cheapest stuff is DOT3. Valvoline synthetic is a good, very reasonably priced, DOT4 fluid that is available virtually everywhere.

 

[SilverSH0]

When I upgraded my calipers I bought them from RockAuto. I found that buying them online plus core charge was cheaper than buying from the local auto parts store minus core charge. I talked the RockAuto people to see if I could send the 2010 cores back when purchasing 2013+ calipers and they said no. If I would have simply sent them back I highly doubt they would have noticed.

I would also switch to DOT 4 fluid. As mentioned, it's now the standard. You can also use DOT 4 fluid on a DOT 3 vehicle and not completely flush the system. So if you buy DOT 4 fluid and don't want to completely flush the system it's compatible.

 

[RonPorter]

When I upgraded my calipers I bought them from RockAuto. I found that buying them online plus core charge was cheaper than buying from the local auto parts store minus core charge. I talked the RockAuto people to see if I could send the 2010 cores back when purchasing 2013+ calipers and they said no. If I would have simply sent them back I highly doubt they would have noticed.

I would also switch to DOT 4 fluid. As mentioned, it's now the standard. You can also use DOT 4 fluid on a DOT 3 vehicle and not completely flush the system. So if you buy DOT 4 fluid and don't want to completely flush the system it's compatible.

It's better to beg for forgiveness than to ask for permission!

Just send calipers back, they are still good cores. No need to ask the question, when you know what they're gonna tell you!

 

[shaker281]

Thanks everyone for the excellent advice. I was concerned about mixing DOT-3 and DOT -4, but if that is not a problem I shall use DOT-4 and go that route and push through as much fluid as possible. I usually do. Also, it appears we are all on the same page regarding the core charge. I do not have much to lose by sending back the 2010 cores. And I am sure that asking Rock Auto will result in complicating matters, so ...

 

[RonPorter]

Many brake fluids are sold as DOT 3/4. You may be thinking of DOT 5, the silicon stuff, which is not compatible with any other fluid, and is just for cars that sit for years, like a 30s Packard, or similar garage queen Pebble Beach car.

 

[shaker281]

2013 upgrade went well. Replaced hoses and rotors and pads with MC parts and calipers with Cardone. No need to buy brass washers as they come with the hoses. New banjo bolt and clips came with the calipers and a set of additional clips come with the MC SD pads too. Had to jettison the rotor shields to fit the new rotors. I put the bolts back in to keep the threaded holes clean.

Only problem I ran into was a buggered tube nut on the hard line, but solved that with a wire brush to clean the threads and small triangular file to touch up the threads. Being M10 x 1.0, I did not have the die to refresh the threads. All good now though.

Discovered that the 20 month old 2010 Cardone reman caliper on pass side was leaking fluid from the piston seal. That was not comforting! I may try and get a warranty refund on it from Rock Auto.

Only test drove so far, but will update with my impressions after some seat time.

 

[SHOdded]

Warranty Information:
2 years/24,000 miles
Warranty Details

 

[shaker281]

Warranty Information:
2 years/24,000 miles
Warranty Details

Thanks pal! I saw that too. I am trying to decide whether to send it back as a core for my 2013 calipers ($70) or return as a warranty item. The thing is they only seem to want to send a replacement caliper, which I do not have a need for. But, they may refuse the core refund of a 2010 caliper for a 2013 caliper. Decisions, decisions...

The new 2013 rotors , calipers and pads feel quite robust after a little seat time. Definitely the way to go!