boat ?

[RonPorter]

350 good idea but i have rusty taurus body boat and sho engine lol

Sell the rusty body & the engine, take the couple hundred bux and buy a used Chevy SB that already makes more power than the SHO V8, then spend about half the time &the $$$ (versus the SHO V8) to set up the Chevy engine.

Plus add a LOT more power very cheaply.

 

[stephen newberg]

Having been marine oriented for almost 50 years now, I think Ron's suggestion just above is by far the most sensible way to go.

pax, smn

 

[kevinspann]

350 good idea but i have rusty taurus body boat and sho engine lol

Put em all in the trash and save the aggravation.

 

[Liquid_force]

if you have a lot of time and abundant know-how I, for one, think it's a very cool idea.
Not the type of project I would ever dream of doing, as I lack both the req'd prerequisites, but it is something I would certainly like to see done.

I would expect at some point (probably many points) you would either need to have excellent machining skills and equipment, or access to a very good custom machinist.

I don't think any of the marinized 4.3's were better than 230 lb-ft or so - I don't think net torque is a problem, and I think the mechanical losses in a stern drive are less than what you get in a fwd drive train and auto trans.

Propping it would be purely trial and error, but if you get that far I'm sure it would be no problem at all.

 

[venom]

Most marine engines are Iron blocks...

There have been some real issues with marine cooling Al blocks. Not saying it can't be done, but even modern marine motors are often using the Cast Iron blocks.

Remember your cooling source is cold. Idle and hammer the throttles and the motor gets doused with cold intake water at say 70 degrees. Sure the right thermostat can regulate this but when something simple happens there and that thing sticks it can develop some real issues.

The other headache is the cooling system needs to be tolerant of hard deposits. Al is a much more active metal and corrosion happens much faster.

As much as I love the idea I think a water to water heat exchanger would be in order So you can setup a closed loop cooling system (no contaminants) for the motor letting the Al block stay comfy closer to 200 than the 150 or so most boats run at, use intake water to cool the engine coolant loop, then use that slightly warmed lake water to cool the exhaust manifolds.

Of course higher temps in a vehicle made of fiberglass and wood have some concerns too.

 

[stephen newberg]

I think the default assumption would be that the cooling system would be dual looped; raw to an exchanger and internal from the exchanger to the engine. Almost all marine pleasure craft cooling designs work this way these days. I do not think I have seen a modern design that was otherwise in a very long time.

Assuming no contamination between the loops, this should take care of a good chunk of the temperature shock and hard deposits problems for the motor itself, though not for the exchanger and the raw water loop, both of which need to be designed with these things in mind from a function and maintenance standpoint.

pax, smn

 

[venom]

I think the default assumption would be that the cooling system would be dual looped; raw to an exchanger and internal from the exchanger to the engine. Almost all marine pleasure craft cooling designs work this way these days. I do not think I have seen a modern design that was otherwise in a very long time.
pax, smn

The 4.3L GM V6 in our family 18.5' Glastron (Volva Penta SX series out drive - We will never buy another Mercruiser Alpha series after the way this Volvo shifts and operates). Is not dual loop, and that is a 2004, but it is also an Iron block Vortec V6. Dual loop designs are likely quite common with an Al block but I'm not current enough to be certain.

 

[stephen newberg]

Wow, that is depressing. Might be a Canada / US difference. Up here most everything comes dual loop. Perhaps because it is assumed it will be used in sea water?

pax, smn

 

[RonPorter]

Wow, that is depressing. Might be a Canada / US difference. Up here most everything comes dual loop. Perhaps because it is assumed it will be used in sea water?

pax, smn

Probably.

And you pay an extra $10K for the "privilege" (sorry!)!

 

[stephen newberg]

There is zero doubt that US/Canadian pricing problems persist, even though the Canadian dollar has been about at or above the US dollar in exchange rates for several years now. Basically, we get gouged. But in some ways the internet is really messing with that. For items that can be ordered on line, many more people are doing so and doing it from the States. There can be some additional hassles on entry, but often the savings make it well worth while. I brought one of my boats up from the US a number of years ago and saved a very large amount of money. And there are services these days that you can hire to bring up cars, used or new, for you, and save huge amounts even after paying their fees. Eventually, prices here will have to become more competitive, but it has not fully happened yet, that is for sure.

pax, smn

 

[venom]

I've updated my currency on the topic. Proper wording for dual loop is "fresh" cooling versus "raw" cooling. Fresh water cooling employs a heat exchanger to keep the traidtional automotive style system (using an anti-freeze for the elvated BP) cool. In a fresh system there are two types:

Half - does the block only leaving the cast exhaust manifolds and exhaust bellows to the raw water.
Full - Does the block and manifolds (but not the bellows) in the coolant solution.

A Full system makes winterizing a cakewalk - you don't need to drain anything coolant wise.

 

[stephen newberg]

You do have to check for cross loop contamination regularly, though. Corrosion in the heat exchangers is a common problem in any dual loop system.

pax, smn