Blown engine 2015 SHO

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Joshw0000

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Wsho can probably chime in with some good info. He's replacing his motor now. If I'm not mistaken, he's ordered more than one 2013+ motor and received (2) 2010-2012's.

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Rob1818

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Wsho can probably chime in with some good info. He's replacing his motor now. If I'm not mistaken, he's ordered more than one 2013+ motor and received (2) 2010-2012's.

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Ya I think im going to get mine on ebay, read to many horror stories about these other sites. With ebay i can at least see a picture of the motor and get its serial.
 

bpd1151

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I thought Fleabay! has purchase protection programs? Can't recall. It's been quite some time since I purchased anything through that platform.

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RandR10

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I dropped a '15 motor in my '11, so they are compatible. I believe the cutoff was for the '13 MY when they went to composite valve covers and different sensors. The '10-12 motors are unicorns so I doubt you'll get one of those, but if you do, you'll need to run the aluminum front valve cover and the '10-12 PCV intake tube. There's an extra boss on the later head for the composite valve cover mounting bolt but not on the earlier head. HPFP and its mounting location was identical on both motors. Other than that it's cam sensors, crank sensor and flex plate that would need to be swapped. You'll probably end up with a 13+ motor in which case you should be able to just drop it in and run it, plug and play. Might be a good idea to check over the flex plate and sensors just to be sure though.
On a side note, with how unfrequent lockdown travel was, I was worried about octane level dropping because the fuel is sitting in the tank for weeks. I removed the tune as a precautionary measure to avoid spark knock. Stock tune should do better with aging gas.
 

Ecoboost_xsport

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I dropped a '15 motor in my '11, so they are compatible. I believe the cutoff was for the '13 MY when they went to composite valve covers and different sensors. The '10-12 motors are unicorns so I doubt you'll get one of those, but if you do, you'll need to run the aluminum front valve cover and the '10-12 PCV intake tube. There's an extra boss on the later head for the composite valve cover mounting bolt but not on the earlier head. HPFP and its mounting location was identical on both motors. Other than that it's cam sensors, crank sensor and flex plate that would need to be swapped. You'll probably end up with a 13+ motor in which case you should be able to just drop it in and run it, plug and play. Might be a good idea to check over the flex plate and sensors just to be sure though.
On a side note, with how unfrequent lockdown travel was, I was worried about octane level dropping because the fuel is sitting in the tank for weeks. I removed the tune as a precautionary measure to avoid spark knock. Stock tune should do better with aging gas.

'10-'12 engines being a unicorn? Tell that to @Wsho, lol. He's got a blown motor in his '12 and ordered a '13+ motor and they've incorrectly sent him a '10-'12 motor....3 times! Lol...
 

RandR10

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'10-'12 engines being a unicorn? Tell that to @Wsho, lol. He's got a blown motor in his '12 and ordered a '13+ motor and they've incorrectly sent him a '10-'12 motor....3 times! Lol...
Yeah, lol I read that thread. SMH. Things may have changed now that people realize the newer motors are backwards compatible. When I searched the '10-12 cars were listed in the charts as incompatible with newer motors and the old ones were $5k+with high miles. I found my '15 motor out of a wrecked police explorer for under $3k with 8k miles on it. I was one of the first to do the swap into an older car and maybe the first to document it on the forums. I didn't have an extra 2-3 grand laying around so I got creative.
 

Wsho

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No my motor is not blown the water pump went but I wasn't taking a chance prior to taking out my thermostat which literally in pieces and didn't want to take a chance that some pieces we're floating around inside the motor.
So I replaced it.
I ordered three engines for a 2012 Taurus SHO and the problem was they kept sending me a single chain sprocket that only occurred in 2010 a 1 time part number change in a 2010 for the timing chain system went from a 1 sprocket to a two sprockets timing chain system which are now in all 2011-2019..
The previous engine I received was custom-built and had a single sprocket so hopefully I got things situated today and they're going to ship out the correct timing chain system refund $300 so I can pay the mechanic to change the parts. It didn't cost me $5000 for an engine. This engine was a little over $4,000. Which I was not attending to get a new engine but from the prices I saw a used or rebuild it was cheaper to get a manufacturer then a used one..
 

Rob1818

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Alright so I got the engine out, pics attached. When buying a new engine for the sho should I be getting one with or without oil cooler? Does it even matter? Non performance pack sho.
Thumbnail 20201010 130927 Thumbnail 20201010 174356 Thumbnail 20201010 174334
 

bpd1151

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It doesn't matter about the oil cooler.

My original 2010 non-PP motor did *NOT* come with one. However, it's a very simple part to retro on after the fact.

Don't make that a priority of your search.

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Jordan_R

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Jeesh!!! That carnage. That's crazy! That rod was a tough son of a gun and took out everything!
 

RandR10

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Nice window!

No you don't need one specifically with an oil cooler unless you don't have one now and want to do the upgrade. Whichever one you end up with they can be swapped from one block to the other in about 2 minutes. The o-ring gasket was on rockauto for like $3 last I checked, but the existing ones should be reusable. By the way, I would recommend upgrading if you don't already have it. It's a pretty simple job and with OEM parts you get OEM reliability.
 

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